Retrofire Posted March 17, 2016 Author Share Posted March 17, 2016 It's hard with the detachment being world wide so I'm doing the same thing with asking questions in my own build thread. It's funny that we're looking at the same thing with the drop boxes. I need to get a little further with my belt so I can fit those properly. I'm going to bend the edges tonight with my new heat gun and hopefully not turn it to slag. My OCD keeps telling me to ask you to fix your garrison spelling and can you send me a link to your thread? I can't seem to find it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oblivian Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 What the.. who did that lol. I'll see if its me or pulled from whoever approved me. I even put the curves in the dropbox slots on a slight angle (used my roll of painters tape as a guide) so when aligned on the leg they sit a little more horizontal exiting.. then I realise I hadn't accounted for attaching velcro (last minute adjustment bonus behind the box) AND put the curve the wrong way! http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=14505&hl=&fromsearch=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted March 18, 2016 Author Share Posted March 18, 2016 I tackled the belt today and busted out my new heat gun. I sanded the side boxes and trimmed the edges down to one inch (2.54cm) and drilled a single rivet hole for the belt closure strap. This was the first time I used a heat gun and it does take some getting used to. I found that the best technique was to make several passes test the bend and then continue to heat it a little at a time so it took me a little longer than usual to make all the bends. I sanded down the mating parts to create a stronger bond and applied the adhesive and clamped it tight. I only have four clamps so I can only do one side at time. Next up are the slots for the drop boxes and the second half of the belt assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oblivian Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 You shaved the drop boxes too? Any particular reason Interested to see drop box level, and how you handle the webbing attaching to the belt. I think I need to bend (made a mess of the sectional joins with a water pot before the heatgun and probably not glued by much after releasing clamps ) the rear rivet tabs or the webbing is nearly pulling straight across the back with 4" velcro and around me it only just goes onto the belt and enough to wrap/glue to the inside of the first rear box beside the rivet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted March 18, 2016 Author Share Posted March 18, 2016 No, I didn't touch the drop boxes at all except to sand the edges to a clean finish. I trimmed the belt side boxes on the rivet side before gluing them in. I think I only took about 1/8" of an inch on both. I'm only 5'8" with a 31" waist (jean sizing not tape) so I needed to draw the belt in a bit like Pandatrooper did. For the belt webbing I'm thinking of adding some loop to the inside of the belt side boxes and add hook to both sides of the white webbing. I can adjust it from there for the best fit then rivet it in. I've even thought of doing a blind rivet and just using the velcro but I'm not sure how that will look. More research is needed on the drop boxes before I tackle those. I'm looking for some better pics of the screen scouts to see how they installed their cotton webbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oblivian Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 Gotcha. Read wrong. A local TB engineered elastic to the end of his belt, and a tightening method like backpacks have. He has waist movement and adjustability. But its a lot of work behind the belt ends moulding mounts.. And fake rivet mount works due to his size. Too many options to make a final decision :/ Sent from my XT1092 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbird96 Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 Still finishing up my TK but I'm following this thread with great interest. Thanks for all the pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted March 20, 2016 Author Share Posted March 20, 2016 Still finishing up my TK but I'm following this thread with great interest. Thanks for all the pics. Thanks so much for the kind words Redbird. It's really been an experience. I know building a TK isn't a walk in the park either and I hope your build is going great. More pics to come for sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted March 20, 2016 Author Share Posted March 20, 2016 I completed the T-bits for the bicept armor. I separated the top and the bottom parts of the T-Bit using a razor saw and then shimmed the bottom with a piece of spare ABS from my build. From there I filled in the edges with putty, sanded them flush and then painted to match the top portion. The height difference is a little more subtle than I was hoping for but overall I'm ok with the result. I glued and installed the second side box on the belt and I was really happy with how strong it is structurally. The technique is something that's going to go into my toolbox for sure. You can see the "tab" in this picture. The boot holster was completed as well. I used the 1/8" by 1/8" steel rivets along with a piece of backing ABS that SC includes in the kit to give the boot a little more support once the holster is attached. For the bottom two rivets I added backing washers to ensure it doesn't pull out of the boot fabric. Here's a closeup of the backing ABS inside the boot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffin-X Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 Looking good, keep it going...you're in the home stretch now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oblivian Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 I have a sudden feeling I've not made my belt curve enough. And if I attack it with a heatgun again the glue shall give up or ill make more holes (the heat decided to make one of my box indents shrink, so the belt edge now has a dip) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted March 21, 2016 Author Share Posted March 21, 2016 Looking good, keep it going...you're in the home stretch now! Thanks very much Jim that means a lot coming from you. Appreciate any feedback on what I have so far. Now I just have to hunt down the elusive sewing machine to get all my strapping completed. I have a sudden feeling I've not made my belt curve enough. And if I attack it with a heatgun again the glue shall give up or ill make more holes (the heat decided to make one of my box indents shrink, so the belt edge now has a dip) I would hold off on doing anything until you get the whole package together. I have to keep reminding my self that there is still a bund, vest, and flight suit that is going under the armor and it all has to fit together neatly. I'm not going to do my front and back armor without my vest on at a minimum since I know it has to fit over that and not just my t-shirt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oblivian Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 Heh.. Uhhmmm think the covering clothes arent going to impact too much on my belt circumference Sent from my XT1092 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted March 24, 2016 Author Share Posted March 24, 2016 Well you have the webbing that's going to pull it together. Maybe put on your suit, bund, and vest and use some tape on the webbing to get the fit just right. Then check your fit. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted March 28, 2016 Author Share Posted March 28, 2016 I'm finally getting back to my build after getting back from a business trip over to the Garrison Tyranus area of operations in Virginia. It was good trip but I'm happy to be back in the Dewback Ridge Garrison with my family. I've started back with some minor work on my front and back armor. I masked off the front armor rectangle and painted it with Humbrol dark grey. I moved onto the back armor and started by creating a tab for the top portion of the tank to rivet into. I used a piece of scrap ABS trimmed it down and sanded it smooth. I also trimmed my drop boxes for the webbing. Still need to file and sand them a bit to clean them up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forest Ranger Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 I'm finally getting back to my build after getting back from a business trip over to the Garrison Tyranus area of operations in Virginia. It was good trip but I'm happy to be back in the Dewback Ridge Garrison with my family. I've started back with some minor work on my front and back armor. I masked off the front armor rectangle and painted it with Humbrol dark grey. I moved onto the back armor and started by creating a tab for the top portion of the tank to rivet into. I used a piece of scrap ABS trimmed it down and sanded it smooth. I also trimmed my drop boxes for the webbing. Still need to file and sand them a bit to clean them up. Looks fantastic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted March 28, 2016 Author Share Posted March 28, 2016 Looks fantastic! Thanks Cheyenne! I didn't have the vinyl that Pandatrooper used for his rectangle so I went with the Humbrol dark grey that I picked up for my TK build. The decal that comes with the SC kit seemed a bit too light to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted March 29, 2016 Author Share Posted March 29, 2016 I installed the tab and riveted it into the back armor. Once I got the tab in I drilled through the tank topper and tab and riveted the tank to the back armor I drilled another hole through the bottom of the tank and set another rivet in place. It's nice and tight. A word of caution is in order here. I went through something like five rivets trying to get the top part of the tank installed. The first time I didn't use a rivet long enough. It was a 1/8" x 1/8" and it just didn't engage the tab. I ended up drilling the rivet out and being thankful it didn't damage the tank or topper. I moved a size up to 1/8" x 1/4" and missed the tab twice. The third time I hit the tab but again it didn't engage....too short. After drilling out (yet) another rivet I decided to move up again to a 1/8" x 3/8" rivet and this one finally engaged and locked the tank into place. Happy days! In all cases I was using a backing washer but I just didn't figure on checking the length needed for the rivet. Just wanted to share and suggest that if you go with this method that you take a minute to check the clearance to ensure the rivet will engage the first time. Trust me it's scary to have to drill out a rivet on your nice finished tank. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lukep79 Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 I just got a notification from Jeff that my SC armor is on the way (WOOT!) so at long last I begin my build thread. I figure the best place to start is with my tool setup. I just need a few more bits of elastic to round out my kit. Just looking at your tools is intimidating me to start this build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted March 29, 2016 Author Share Posted March 29, 2016 Just looking at your tools is intimidating me to start this build Fear not my friend! It shouldn't intimidate you at all! Besides we're here to help whenever you need. That's why we all post build threads. It gives your fellow and the more senior Pathfinders a chance to jump in and give you advice when you need. I had collected most of this for my TK build so I already had most of it on hand. I would say the tools you will really need to have on hand are: clamps, lexan scissors, E6000 adhesive, rivet gun and rivets, washers for rivets, sandpaper (I've been using mostly 400 grit to clean up mold residue and flash), file set, straight edge, and plastic weld. The optional items that I collected are decals and helmet liner from Trooperbay, 1.5" white cotton webbing, snaps, extra greeblies, and all sorts of Velcro (never have too much Velcro ). Please feel free to ask any questions about what I have on the table and I'll be happy to expound Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shada Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 I'm curious about adhesives - what do you use plastic weld for, and how is it different from E6000? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted March 29, 2016 Author Share Posted March 29, 2016 I'm curious about adhesives - what do you use plastic weld for, and how is it different from E6000? I use the plastic weld for low stress area and to hold parts when I'm going to rivet them in. So far I've used it on my knee armor where I need to put rivets for the 0.5" (1.27cm) elastic. I've also used it on the thermal detonator to help secure the belt loops along with the zip ties and to help hold the tab in my back armor before I riveted it in. It's good for areas that don't need the strength of a strong adhesive. The E6000 on the other hand is a really tough adhesive and can withstand the rigors of trooping. This is the stuff you use for all your greeblies and I also used it for my belt assembly. The Stormtrooper detachment swears by it. It's like the duct tape of the 501st . It's also very forgiving (unlike zap a gap) so if you made an alignment mistake or need to shift a part you just glued a smidge E6000 gives you time to work with it. It's best to start out with if this is your first build. Just make sure you have some ventilation when you uncork it as it can get rather stinky like spray paint. I think I called out where I used the plastic through my build thread. I hope this helped a little. Please let me know if I can be of any more help. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shada Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 Thanks - this is useful. I see both you and Panda used a mixture of the two, so I appreciate getting the details on what works where. 😃 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted March 30, 2016 Author Share Posted March 30, 2016 Started sketching my lines for trimming the front and back armor and for the returns. I picked my heat sealing iron and I'm ready to give it a try. Need to watch PandaTrooper's tutorial a few more times and practice on some scrap before I give this a shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stasz Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 Looking killer, Retro! Can't wait to see how the returns come out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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