zarintyr Posted November 9, 2015 Posted November 9, 2015 40$ At a Japan online shop and for the next few days the online shop offers free shipping. ( the tan ones in the corner) http://s77.photobucket.com/user/Jeffrey_Bublitz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpswhucdbbu.jpg.html 1
zarintyr Posted November 9, 2015 Author Posted November 9, 2015 Thanks! Looked everywhere. Ordering tomorrow
zarintyr Posted November 15, 2015 Author Posted November 15, 2015 I have a question before i start cutting. Ive seen two types of cuts. The marcel cut and plus cut. Which is better? Also..do i cute the front part or only back part of the boot?
01Hawk Posted November 15, 2015 Posted November 15, 2015 I think the cuts vary from build to build since sole size varied as well. I tried to make a stencil from blown up images of real boots but that didn't work out too well. Having a set of real boots now, I think trying to duplicate the exact cut would be tough. Some people cut just the backs , others do the front and back- depends on how comfortable you are with your trimming skills. I think the sole material makes a huge difference. The cheap hard plastic soles look better after cut. I used Timberlands with a gummy sole and each cut I made made like white/clear pulled/thin edges.
zarintyr Posted November 15, 2015 Author Posted November 15, 2015 i am halfway done with the back part. ill post a photo in a few. i did make a tiny mistake though, will try and fix it with piece of the carved rubber.
zarintyr Posted November 16, 2015 Author Posted November 16, 2015 I'm very curious. The bsn only shows vertical cuts but the crl for lancer says vertical and horizontal. Which is true? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
kayelbe Posted November 16, 2015 Posted November 16, 2015 You are doing it right. The CRL says vertical and horizontal Ribbing. If you picture the sole pattern as a series of tiny "H" shapes, you can see the "vertical" and "horizontal" ribs.
zarintyr Posted November 16, 2015 Author Posted November 16, 2015 Ohh. Thanks. So keep heel at vert only. I thought it meant heel has vert/hor in it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
zarintyr Posted November 16, 2015 Author Posted November 16, 2015 I'll erase the horizontal marks on the heel and only cut vertical Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
wookieevader Posted November 16, 2015 Posted November 16, 2015 No no no keep vert and horz Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk
01Hawk Posted November 19, 2015 Posted November 19, 2015 There are a lot of pics in the reference photos sections here of what the original boots looked like but here is a quick one-
zarintyr Posted November 19, 2015 Author Posted November 19, 2015 my outside cut. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1
zarintyr Posted November 20, 2015 Author Posted November 20, 2015 Past few days I had 2-3 classes. Brought my boots to work and used chisel sets that teachers use. Got both boots done, sole wise Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1
zarintyr Posted November 30, 2015 Author Posted November 30, 2015 would this be ready to glue? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
4505Marcel Posted November 30, 2015 Posted November 30, 2015 I'd go for another heat and stretch before gluing especially over the lower lace area
TeaJay Posted December 1, 2015 Posted December 1, 2015 Here's just a quick comparison example. The boot on the left has only been heated and stretched once. The boot on the right has been heated and stretched three times. The left one still has a noticeable bulge near the lower part of the laces. Not sure if this helps just wanted to share the photo.
zarintyr Posted December 1, 2015 Author Posted December 1, 2015 My other boot is a stretch or two from being the same. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
zarintyr Posted December 1, 2015 Author Posted December 1, 2015 One more good heated stretch should be ready Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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