puckering vinyl

[Jakeputt]

When glueing The calf piece do you glue it all around the bottom of the boot or just either side where it sits close to the front vinyl piece in the tutorial I'm following it looks like you just glue the front section.

[wookieevader]

Just the front so you can kinda peel it open to put your foot in and tie the shoe then velcro it closed. If you glue it all the way around it might be difficult to put it on and tie the shoe. Dont glue it by the laces either or when you tie them it will make the vinyl do things you dont want it to do.

 

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[Jakeputt]

The opposite side if the boots.

[Jakeputt]

Here are the cut lines drawn on my first boot to make them lancer certified. Do they look like they will work before I cut?

[Chunk]

yup, just like that

[Jakeputt]

Fun excuse to use my dremel

[Jakeputt]

Did I destroy them? Are they ok?

[Jakeputt]

I saw yours, looks like I have some more work to do

[Jakeputt]

We never found non sticky back 1" velcro for the boot calves. I am currently in the process of sewing the velcro on the old fashioned way and this is my first time doing it.

[Jakeputt]

I've finished gluing the Marine Vinyl. I love how they look. The glue is drying for an hour and I am excited to stick them on. I will upload a full body shot of what I have thus far with my kit build.

[bwattsup]

Did you sew the 2 lines of stitching on both sides of each dogbone? It's really hard to tell from your pics. Also, you should sew a line of stitching around the top of the boots. It will help keep the area that's folded over in place. It will also prevent the top of your boots from having those crease indentations.

[Jakeputt]

Both dog bones do have double line stitching in them, and the top of the boots do have a line sewn into them. They are down about 1" to 1.5" from the top. I actually like the folds at the top of the boot. I think they look a little more Boot-ish. Will there be a problem getting them passed if the stitch at the top is so far down?

[bwattsup]

I don't think it would. I'm only trying to make you aware of "the norm". The stitch is usually pretty close to the top. Approximately 3/8". Gives it a cleaner look.

[Jakeputt]

I've noticed that. I don't know I still think they look good

[Griffin-X]

It'll come down to your local Garrison GML. However, I doubt they will pass with the boot tops "as-is". If I were you, I'd follow Barry's advice and do them no more than 3/8" or so. If not, you may find yourself resubmitting approval pics. AND, that stinks.

[Jakeputt]

Where do I submit approval pics too?

[Griffin-X]

When you have everything (whole costume) ready to go, and it's a good idea to get a review here first, you'll submit your pics to your local Garrison Membership Liaison (GML).

[Jakeputt]

Does the boot height look correct?

[Jakeputt]

Is there any location that has specifics on anything? It seems like most the info I'm reading is generalized until after the fact where I read a line needs to be 3/8th" from the top. I would like to obtain that instruction before making the mistake. Where's the more specific info?

[bwattsup]

Your boot height looks about right, but it's honestly best to have your knee armor on. The boot height is dependent upon that. As for the info, the pinned boot tutorial has a lot of the info in it. I can't pinpoint where the 3/8" or less is specifically. It justy comes from reading a ton on here, looking at lots of pictures, and having a feel for the costume.

 

The one area on your picture that needs to change is the elastic height. It's gonna be too low, and probably too loose, where it is right now. the top of that elastic usually lines up about an 1-2" From the bottom of the crotch. It ideally sits midway of the riding patch.