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Posted

I just tried to hand sew this ( first time hand sewing ) and got the arch right but I really don't think I can get the spacing inbetween each stitch correct ... They are pretty tight on the reference pics. How does everyone do theirs? I have a sewing machine but it pulls it in too quick and guides it in a straight line. Should I just run the pedal in short bursts and manually kinda turn the material through?

Posted

Here is a pic ... Be gentle on the judging lol. I quit boy scouts before we got to sewingE5656C82-DCEF-4B83-9623-2D027949C9E9.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Hey that's the way my first paired looked! That stuff will start to come to easier the more you do it. 5 bucks says you'll go back and redo this one after you get the next one done!

Posted

Jeeze the last time I sewed was in Home Ec in High School. I certainly can't judge B) I'm in the same boat as you as I don't have a sewing machine either. The local dry cleaning places do alterations for all sorts of suits and uniforms (I live near an AFB). Have you thought about looking into one that may do the sewing for you in your area? Just a thought. Best to you!

Posted

I am gonna run some scraps thru the machine tomorrow while putting tape over the paw thing that pulls the fabric thru so I have more control. I think I can get the distance between holes correct with it since I sewed the uppers .. It if just trying to get the arc that is tough. I will try putting one thru upside down with the line drawn on it to guide me.

  • Like 1
Posted

Can you adjust the stitch pattern so they'll be really short straight stitches? The shorter the stitch pattern, the less the machine is going to pull. Also, just barely press the pedal Howard, and stop and spin with the needle inserted and the presser foot up. Put it back down and move in the direction you set. Keep doing it over and over. Speed is the key here. Slooooooooooooooooooow!

  • Like 1
Posted

Whoops, I told you something wrong in that last post Howard. I went back and edited it. Sorry :)

Posted

Hopefully your machine will have a stitch length adjuster on it, and the pedal should allow you to vary the speed from slow to fast.

 

Turn the stitch length down to about 18-20 (stitches per inch) and just go slow.

 

What machine is it??

Posted

Thanks for all the tips! It is a Singer Esteem 2 .. Here is what the stitching on the upper part of my boots looks like. I think the thread is a bit thin on this so I now have thicker thread to use. I think the spacing here will work for the dog bone , just need to practice making it curve ( pedal control needs work. )BD89E233-1FBF-44CB-A159-D0268DA0AB57.jpg

Posted

i just kind of pull the material through the machine, working with it, and pivot the material as it goes through. This has a little learning.. well...curve...lol...but its not too hard.

Posted

Hahah. I have plenty of scraps so I am going to practice till I get it right. Have to redo the Velcro on my belt anyway - having a single stitch line and pulling on it caused it to tear.

  • Like 1
Posted

Stick your finger in the centre of the dog bone in the middle of an imaginary circle that the arc of the dog bones would trace.

 

When the feed dogs on the machine pull the material, it will pivot around your finger, tracing the same curve.

  • Like 1
Posted

Stick your finger in the centre of the dog bone in the middle of an imaginary circle that the arc of the dog bones would trace.

 

When the feed dogs on the machine pull the material, it will pivot around your finger, tracing the same curve.

 

 

That is an awesome trick! Thanks!

Posted

Stick your finger in the centre of the dog bone in the middle of an imaginary circle that the arc of the dog bones would trace.

 

When the feed dogs on the machine pull the material, it will pivot around your finger, tracing the same curve.

 

Genius! I love this guy lol

Posted

Tip: trace your dog bone shape to the vinyl. Stitch the line detail BEFORE you cut out the dog bone. This will prevent the vinyl from crinkling.

  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

On my last build, I actually used those two lines to attach the top to the dogbone. There was enough give in the material to get under with staple gun instead of rivets. I think it has held together better, with no E6000 poking out at the edges collecting dirt.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

 

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