Bwattsup's WIP

[bwattsup]

Hello everyone, I'm finally back to finish off my Scout! Some around the BSN may remember me from a couple of years ago when I started this project. Hi to all the old timers! For those that have come around since then, Greetings from Newport News, Virginia. Sorry it took so long to come back. Life dealt me some really draining blows over the course of two years. I'm still getting my butt kicked pretty hard right now, but I'm trying to fight my way out of it daily as life keeps pushing back. I'm hoping that by joining the Legion, and puttting smiles on children's faces, my karma will start to turn around again. I'm actually about 85% done with my build, but still have a couple of major things (and several minor details) left to wrap up. I took pictures along the way and will start to upload them shortly to show my progress.

 

So here's a rundown of what I'm working with on this build. I recently picked up an Altmann's helmet (Thanks Spike! ) so I could get to approval quicker. I plan on tackling my SC mod again in the future once I have the general build complete. I just didn't want to invest more time in that one when I had so much work to do on the general costume. My gloves are Sith Armor gloves I obtained as they were ending their run on gloves. My pistol is a Sci Fire Hyperfirm. I'm using MC armor. I "only" waited six months to obtain my armor. I see that production delays have gotten even worse since then. The undersuit is a Red Kap like most. I wish I could find one that's soft like the type I use at work.

 

Anyway, It's great to be back home. I just wanted to set up a placemarker tonight so I could rejoin the BSN community officially. I'll try to start updating this post soon to show you guys and gals where I'm at, and how I'm progressing.

[Griffin-X]

Welcome back Barry!

[bwattsup]

Thanks for the welcome Jim!

 

I've got a couple of items I still need to source out for my build. If anyone can help me with these, I would greatly appreciate it.

 

I'm looking for the following:

 

1) 45mm (1-3/4") elastic in natural. I've seen it in white, but would prefer to find some in natural color and not have to dye it. I read that's now the desired elastic/webbing width for the chest straps.

 

2) Thin black pig suede. I read about it recently, but not sure of the best place to buy thinner suede from. I have thicker suede that I attempted to use for the riding patch this weekend. It didn't work out so well. I couldn't even pin it.

 

Now to my WIP. I started with my boots, and used E6000 drying periods to work on other things. Originally, I had another pair of base boots, but I found this pair one day on sale for $10. They actually have the exact same tread pattern as my other boots. Since I actually liked my original pair of boots better, I kept those for personal use. The only major differences between the 2 pairs were the type of leather, and the toe was softer on these. In order to prevent them from caving in during the toe stretching process, I stuffed them with newspaper.

 

 

After laying out the sole pattern, I used my rotary tool as a router and cut the design.

 

 

Before I started the vinyl process, I switched out my laces for flat ones, and used barrel locks.

 

 

I then streched my toe vinyl and glued it down with E6000. I made a set of the toe clamps that Terry (Pandatrooper) originated in his build thread. I also used some clamps to pull the back edges in as well. It's not pictured here, but I of course put down the front half strips after the toe vinyl was dry.

 

 

I cut out my calf extensions, and then took a sewing lesson from my mom on making the top hem line. I also made my dog bones and learned how to stich those as well. As some one who had never sewn before, I told my mom I only wanted help on this project as a birthday present in lieu of a physical present. This would be a much better gift to me than anything else. Ironically, the day she gave me pointers was the 4th of July. After I had finished the boot stiching, and attached my armor velcro to the elastic, she said "Take the sewing machine home and practice all you want." In other words - DO IT YOURSELF! Like a bird being kicked out of the nest, I had gained my sewing independence.

 

I ended up gluing the back portions in instead of using the rivets. After I attached my dog bones, riveted the holster, and added a calf strap internally...my boots were complete.

 

 

[khazara]

Here's a great source for the pig suede: http://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/9122-21.aspx

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[bwattsup]

Thanks Todd. That's about the weight I probably need for the riding patches. The other hide I purchased was more than twice that weight. I'm probably gonna make my mud flap out of the heavier weight suede.

[01Hawk]

Looks great! Which dremel bit did you use on the soles and did you machine stitch the lines on the dog bone? When I have tried to machine stitch the dog bone I can never get the arch right ( last thing I need to do)

[bwattsup]

Thanks Howard, and congrats on nearing completion. I used a 90 degree engraving cutter bit similar to this one:

 

 

I cut my soles by plunging the bit to the backside of the cutting tip. I then used two hands to hold it steady, and proceeded to cut straight rows like a milling machine would. The only place it gets a little tricky is the toe and heel curves. For the corners, you simply tilt the dremel about 90 degrees (flat) and use the same bit.

 

As for the stitches, yes I machine stitched those. I drew the curves I wanted on the back side of the material, and then slowly traced that arc with the machine. Take it really slow around the end corners. If you're having trouble with the curves do this: Stop with the needle inserted, lift the presser foot, spin the material towards your desired direction, drop the presser foot, and then continue sewing in the direction you set. It may not be the most professional of methods, but it will get you the end result. My mom also taught me to leave the top thread and bottom bobbin strings long at the start and finish of a stitch. This allows you to pull the top thread to the bottom with a hand needle so you can tie it off to the bobbin thread. That way your thread will not be able to unravel. It's probably overkill on the dog bones since they're glued down, but it's a good practice to keep in mind.

[Nikko]

Nice thread! Glad you decided to return and get this hammered out. More troopers for the tip of the lance! The emperor is pleased.

 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

 

[bwattsup]

After my initial sewing lesson, I tackled something a little bit harder - the pouches. I decided to make mine 2 ply all the way around because I wanted them to retain the best shape possible. I followed Batninja's pouch thread which made it look easy. Unfortunately for me, it didn't work out that way. I couldn't figure out for the life of me how to get both the pouch and flap to flip around so no seams would show. It was either one or the other. I even cut a slit in the back of the flap and pulled it through to make everything right. Problem was, it looked like crap.

 

After my first failed attempt, I thought about how I could make the flip for awhile. I was able to flip them properly by leaving the back seams open, but couldn't join the sides to the back unless I did it by hand. So I gave it a shot....and failed miserably again. Maybe with some more experience I could do it that way, but I'm too green in sewing methods.

 

And then my luck changed! I happened to see Batninja pop up on the boards one day and sent him a request for some help. Eric was more than willing to help me through the process. He asked me to give him a little while and he would give me some instructions later that day. He pops back up a couple of hours later not only with help, but a full power point presentation that completely outlines the steps in detail. I was completely blown away! I can't thank you enough Eric for doing that. That was totally above and beyond!

 

I made jpegs from that presentation, and lowered the contrast a little to make it more visible. Here's Batninja's Pouch Tutorial:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here's a pic of my completed pouches. Just have to figure out which way I'm going to attach them.

 

[Nikko]

Professional!

 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

 

[bwattsup]

Thanks Nicholas! Glad you're enjoying my build thread.

 

Once i got my Altmann's in from down under, my daughter and I played around with it and took some pics.

 

 

Once the geeking out phase died down, I sat back and assessed what needed to be done to finish it off. The decals are a darker grey than the snout, so I put in an order for some trooperbay decals. I also thought the snout detail was a little messy. I ended up Frankensteining the Altmann's backplate with SC greeblies for crisper detail. The pics below show you the difference. Don't mind the primer color. I ended up re-coating it with a lighter gray, and also opened up the horizontal line on the backplate.

 

 

I then removed the visor hinge bolts, and pondered how I was going to mount my 3M bolts. I ended up opening the holes on the visor/faceplate to allow the square portion to drop through. After putting it back together, I realized the headgear wasn't going to be able to mount directly to the bolts (like they can on welding helmets). I wrestled with how to mount it for a couple of days, and then came up with a solution. I taped the headgear inside and sanded off the paint on the corresponding mount areas. I then made brackets out of ABS plastic for both the inside and outside portions of the headgear. I riveted on snaps to both brackets, and also attached velcro to each.

 

 

Once the brackets were complete, I cut out (6) 1"x2"x1/16" strips of styrene. I then glued them 3 high to make (2) 1"x2"x3/16" plates. The plate height now matches the depth of the top headgear strap. After positioning the headgear, I glued down both of the side snap brackets, and both of the top strap plates. The top strap plates are butted up to the strap on both sides preventing the headgear from moving back and forth. I then laid down hook velcro on both plates. I also doubled over a 7-1/2" piece of loop sew velcro, and sewed it together to make a 3-1/4" pad. This pad has a double purpose. It further secures the top strap, and also serves as a cushion for the top of your head.

 

 

Once the headgear was completely secure, I moved on to the chin cup that comes with an Altmann's bucket. Since the inside front edges aren't as wide as a screen used bucket, I decided to use 3/4" elastic on the outside. The screen used bucket in the BSN gallery uses 1" elastic. I cut two 1/2" slits on both sides of the front sections. I folded over my 3/4" elastic about an inch and a half and sewed that. I then took the long section of that same elastic and folded it back to the center point of the sewn section. I sewed them together at this point making a "T" shape. After I determined the length I wanted, I cut them and sewed a section of 1" elastic between both t-straps. I attached some velcro to the chin cup for cushioning, and then fed my elastic through. I then pushed the 3/4" ends of the elastic through the top inside slits, down the outside, and then back through the bottom slits. The 1" elastic can't pull through the top slip easily, and the t-strap ends can't pull through the bottom easily. I think it makes for a pretty nice passive mounting system.

 

 

 

Here's some pics of my completed bucket!

 

 

Here's a before and after shot as well. It's a little hard to tell the color differences between the two, so I added a pic of the Altmann's back vent decal, in the trooperbay slot. Notice the size difference as well.

 

[bwattsup]

Upon finishing the pouches, I moved on to the cummerbund. I ended up making it using the seperate bund/cod 2-part combo. For the cod, I followed Terry's tutorial using ABS for the clam shell. I'm eventually going to make another one since I wasn't thrilled about how my material didn't lay completely flat against the upper portion of the cod. It actually looks a lot better when it's on and not laying flat on a table. The elastic that goes between the legs velcros between the rear center seam layers.

 

Does anyone think I'll have a problem getting approval with this bund? If so please let me know. I can always make another cod now instead of being denied.

 

 

 

 

 

Next up...the flak vest. I tried on an XL t-shirt over top of my coveralls to judge approximate size. I then laid out the dimensions I thought I need for a proper fitting vest. Since I made the pattern at work one night, I used some basic items (a roll of tape, the bottom of a trash can, etc...) to give me consistant curves around the neck and sleeves. After making the initial blueprint, I retraced them to make the front and back patterns. Then I doubled over paper for and made one side of the sleeve. After cutting the folded paper, I opened it up to complete the sleeve,

 

 

 

Here's my completed vest. I'm actually not crazy about it, but I think it will pass for now. I made the neck opening too wide, and I think the sleeves should be more of a raglan style than the style I made. The sleeves may be a little too short around the armpit, but the length looked right when I tried the armor on and adjusted my shoulder bells. I kept cutting them back until it looked right to me. They started off much longer, and a little tighter around the bicep.

 

 

 

Also, heres a pic of my armor in progress. The chest, back, shoulder bells, and t-straps are done. Since this picture was taken, I've applied the front decal, and shored up the underside of the chest/back connector. I haven't mounted my tank yet because I've got something different in mind for that.

 

 

Biceps with t-bits:

 

 

I'm almost done with my flightsuit. I just have to finish off the riding patches and mudflap. I should be done with them this week and will update tthis post again soon. Starting to get close to completion

[Griffin-X]

Great progress Barry, keep it up!

[bwattsup]

I finally finished the flightsuit today!!!!!! I totally understand the frustration associated with the riding patches now. That was by far the hardest thing to sew on this project. I think mine came out a little too big in the end, but they aren't coming off that suit again. Especially since I used Heat 'N Bond to hold them in place. The only sewing I have left on the project is velcro to hold everything in place. That can be done while I'm waiting on approval. I also have to finish off the pouch mounts. Can't believe I made it through all the sewing. I even got a "Wow!" form my mom tonight when I showed her all of the stuff I've been sewing lately.

 

After removing the pockets I stitched the side slit pockets on both sides. I then made my collar. I also took the legs in about 2-1/2" around the bottom and didn't taper them much until I got close to the crotch.

 

 

After aquiring the thinner suede from Tandy (thanks for pointing me in the right direction Todd), I remade my riding patches, and installed my elasic leg bands. The leg bands were tough to get them at the right height. I just kept measuring from the waistline and pinned the down around each leg until the patches were sewn in. I then stitched in a 12" x 12" mud flap. I may cut it down a little later.

 

 

And since I didn't have anyone at home to help me take pics, I headed to my folks house, had some home cooking, and got them to take pics. I'll sort out the leg bunching issue later with a stich on both side seams.

 

 

 

Squeeeeeeeeeeee!!!! I'm on the home stretch. Hopefully I'll finish up this week! :dancing-trooper:

[bwattsup]

Well I didn't finish up, but I got another step closer. I've only got a couple of minor things left to do, and the finishing touches on a big one. Still, I wanted to show some progress.

 

I've finished my belt minus riveting the webbing to the front ABS belt. But that's a reall easy one. Since MC armor is a little smaller, I had to make a suspension plate to hold my snaps in the right plate. The hip boxes are done as well. Again, setting them in place is a final fit issue.

 

 

Here's my TD ala the Pandatrooper method. As you can see the TD box is really small compared to a Don Jarr greeblie. I may update the box at a latter date, but it will do for now. I also made some brackets that I'll bend, paint, and mount after my submission pics are done.

 

 

Since I made the TD removable, It got me thinking about being able to attend all the premieres we have coming up over the next 6 years in costume. So in order to do that in comfort without a lot of hassle, the tank needed to be easily removable as well. I wrestled with how to accomplish this for a long time during my build. The complex curvatures of the tank make it a little difficult to mount something in an exact position. After coming up with a solution, I proceeded to accomplish my goal.

 

I started with a Lock & Lock box that would fit into the tank. I then made a plate out of 1/8" ABS. I made it double the length I wanted and scored it down the center. When you score and snap ABS that's that thick, it naturally leaves them attached at the opposite side of the break point. This allows you to gently bend it like a hinge. Now the two plates hinge together to form a plate 1/4" thick. The hinge point also helps to keep everything aligned. After making the plate, It was clamped together with the lid. I then drilled out 1/8" holes in all 4 corners.

 

After I removed the lid, I used a 1/2" paddle bit in all four corners to drill through the pilot holes. I then used a sanding pad on my dremel to open the holes up slightly. Once that was complete, I test fitted the cups on the lid with some 1/8" rivets, and placed the plate on top. It fits pretty nicely!

 

 

I had planned on using the rivets to mount the cups, but it started to open up the hole on the plastic box. I then switched to 6-32 screws. The magnets were also glued into the cups once I tested everything for fit.

 

 

I added a piece of styrene underneath the base to hold the magnet base washers in place. Once I had a good fit. I glued together the hinged ABS plate. I then glued the plates together. Afterwards, I glued a #8 washer and the magnet base washer in each hole. Then I slapped some gloss white on the plate assembly.

 

 

I found my rough center points on the back plate, and adjusted the mount height to the place I want the box to sit inside the tank. I glued down the plate with E-6000, and gave it time to dry. After it dried. I tested out the box. Fit exactly like I wanted! The tank won't be able to shift around up/down/side-to side. It definitely won't be able to come off with ease.The magnet pull is really strong. Maybe too strong. It actually worried me a bit, so I didn't go through with my idea as planned. I'm going to run some tests on some disposable objects before I commit it to the tank. Mission half accomplished! Round 2 coming soon...

 

[01Hawk]

Looks great! Excellent idea on the removable tank

[bwattsup]

Thanks Howard. The reality is I could have been done by now without the mod. If things don't work out as I've planned, I'm going to slap it on with the bolts and tackle the mod later. If nothing else, I've got a cool storage container mounted to my back already It's going to be totally functional regardless.

[Nexous]

Everything looks great! Looking at other WIPs help me think of better ways to improve my own costume

[bwattsup]

I get the same feeling from WIP's Daniel. They help you pick up a trick or two for use elsewhere. Glad mine got ya thinking.

[Donovan]

Looking awesome bro! I'm glad you finally got a start on it!its looking great!

[bwattsup]

Looking awesome bro! I'm glad you finally got a start on it!its looking great!

 

Me too bro

[bwattsup]

Success!!!! My detachable tank is a reality now. The method I conceived worked perfectly. This is how I accomplished it.

 

Since the tank isn't a perfectly uniform object. I couldn't attach it to the box by normal methods. I had 2 choices in mind to accomplish this feat. The first was to make a mold of the tank with the box in it's proper place. Since I would have to buy mold making materials, releasing agents, and materials to cast with, I decided against this method. I was also concerned with the amount of weight that it would add to the tank. Plus, I'd have to glue the box into the mold, and wasn't sure if all these items would properly adhere together. A lot of variables there.

 

So the only other solution to me was to use foam to accomplish it. It's lightweight, sticky as it sets up, and fully moldable. I thought about using cans of "Great Stuff" that you can buy from Lowes, but realized it would be extremely difficult to use considering everything had to happen in a backplate/tank sandwich. You've got no visibility whatsoever that way. After deciding against that, I bought a 2-part urethane foam kit (a.k.a. pour foam). It's the same kind of foam that's used in boat hulls for buoyancy. You just mix the 2 parts together with a staight 1:1 ratio, stir it quickly, and then pour into the tank. It sets up in about 45 seconds, and is done expanding within about 2 minutes. After expanding, It actually takes another 5 minutest to totally cool off, and set in it's final form. I went with the 2lb density because: A: it's more lightweight, and B: it's cheaper. Here's a pick of the kit I used.

 

 

 

As I said in my last post, the amount of magnetic pull on the base box worried me. I was afraid that the box wouldn't adhere enough to the foam and cause them to come apart after it was set. Even worse, the foam might break apart as i pulled the tank apart. The only way to figure it out before commiting to the tank was to make some test runs. Since the shape of a 2 liter bottle is close to a tank, I cut one down to tank size. I used a 20oz bottle as my box substitute. I poured what I thought was a small enough amount of each part, and mixed them togeter. As you can see from the top picture, that was way too much. The 20 oz bottle was super secure after the foam set, but I was worried the bottles shape contributed to being held firmly.

 

I made a second set up, and used a lunch meat container as my box. I also ended up using one of those medicine dose cups that come with cold medicine to properly measure out small amounts of the 2 part foam needed. On the second test, I used 10mlL of each part. That was definitely closer to the amount I needed. The container held equally as firm as my first test. Since, that container was a little larger than my box, I found another box to use for a third test. On the third test, I used 15mL of each part. Now I was ready to commit to the tank .

 

 

For the final product, I used 20mL of each part. After pouring the mixture into the tank, I kept the sloped edge of the tank level so it would concentrate the foam evenly around the box. I then held the backplate and tank together in position for ten minutes to ensure it set properly. Then came the moment of truth as I pulled them apart. It set up perfectly, held the box inside the tank, and wasn't easy to get apart. You have to pull it apart around the lip of the tank. The foam didn't expand completely evenly around the box, so I used some sanding attachments on my Dremel to even out the surface of the foam.

 

 

 

Upon completion of the box attachment, I added my tank topper, decals and a dummy rivet in the bottom mount hole.

 

 

Here's the finished pics of the tank mounted in place. Eventually, I'm going to add a tether strap inside to prevent the tank from hitting the ground if it ever breaks magnetic contact.

 

 

Also this weekend, I added the pouch mount strips, and attached the webbing to my belt. I only have to start adjusting everything for fit. I'll finally be donning the entire suit sometime this week, and taking submission pics shortly. I would have been done this weekend, but some family came into town unexpectanly. Oh well, soon enough!

 

[Guest Forrest Patrol]

That's a very interesting idea, glad it worked for you

[bwattsup]

Thanks Forrest! I'm very excited to know that I'll be able to sit in comfort (in costume) during the Episode 7 premiere! Should make for a very fun evening

 

Plus, should I fall into a body of water (pool/lake/river/sea), my tank can now double as a floatation device!

[Guest Forrest Patrol]

 

Plus, should I fall into a body of water (pool/lake/river/sea), my tank can now double as a floatation device!

 

 

Only if you haven't got your lunch in there