Glues

[bugdozer]

I'm about to start glueing bits of my armour together. I have seen recommendations for plastic weld glue and E6000, which seem to only be available online, but nobody talking about epoxy resin glues which are more widely available and are generally pretty good.

Is there a reason not to use epoxy (like it will melt the plastic?) and if I get E6000 do I then not need to bother with the plastic weld glue, or should I get both? (I am aware plastic weld will not work on fabric etc.)

NB: I am in the UK so please do not recommend Bondo, or Sticko, or Tak-U-Like etc.

[SulacoBoy]

If you mess up with E6 it's forgivable. But if you use epoxy it permanently bonds plastic. So if you mess up there is very little chance to correct it. I personally use E6 on all my armor. I haven't had a problem with it.

[Dart]

The biggest problem with epoxy is that it dries hard. You're better off with E6000 as it's flexible and much more forgiving to work with, as stated above.

[Chef]

This is the stuff that I use...

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EMA-PLASTIC-WELD-POLYSTYRENE-GLUE-CEMENT-/251961783280?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3aaa17b3f0

 

It's amazing stuff. You just need to dab it on with a brush. Capillary action draws the glue between the bits you're gluing.

Sticks like the proverbial to a blanket.

 

You should be able to get it in your local model shop. That's where I get mine rather than eBay.

[Archer]

My experience with adhesives on white armor when i built my Sandtrooper is this.

1. Have all parts cut and trimmed and ready for gluing

2. Do a trial run before gluing. Set parts together and use clamps as if you were using glue and remember that the surface to be glued must me roughed up before assembly with sandpaper. It needs something to grab onto...especially for E6000. Clean all surfaces before applying adhesives. Clean rough surface is what you need.

3. After putting glue and pressing parts together it is almost certain it will shift a little. That is ok but to much glue will squeeze out.

E6000 is forgiving and allows you to wiggle the parts back in place if it shifts out of place a bit.

4. If you make a mistake "like i have done putting the left side shim on the right side" let it dry a bit and you can separate the parts and try again. It is a set back but let the glue on the separated parts dry. The glue can be removed with a small piece of wood rubbing back and forth. DO NOT use thinners or mineral spirits to remove wet glue.

I know this may be repeating what you already know but it might help with using E6000 Correctly and not messing up your armor surface.

[Bigmac502]

Is there any solvent that can be used to remove wet glue in case there is any that squirts out?

[Chunk]

I use a 2 part 5 minute epoxy to glue my greeblies on. Never had an issue.

[Guest Forrest Patrol]

Would anyone recommend Gorilla Glue or Loctite? Or any other easily available glue?

[Chunk]

I would shy away from Gorilla Glue. It expands as it sets. You'd hate to think you got it just right only to come back the next day and find that your greeblie is surrounded by brown hard glue.

[Griffin-X]

I use Gorilla Glue for permanent bonds (armor, repairs, blasters, etc.) and e-6000 all other applications (greeblies, armor, helmets, etc.). This works for me.