theisaac Posted February 24, 2015 Author Posted February 24, 2015 Shoes are in progress. I see a msg to Marcel in my very near future.
Chex Posted February 24, 2015 Posted February 24, 2015 The boots aren't as hard as they seem, they just take a little time. But seriously, if you build to Lancer spec, then submit for it, please. I promise the experience isn't as harrowing as it is elsewhere. 2
theisaac Posted February 25, 2015 Author Posted February 25, 2015 ya, you guys are really helpful with the lancer apps. I'm used to everyone jumping in with whats wrong. "cover strips are too wide and the belt is 1mm low" and thats it. LOL 1
Griffin-X Posted February 25, 2015 Posted February 25, 2015 You will be a solid scout in no time. Keep on course and you'll be an easy approval! Ps...Chef makes a great vest! 1
theisaac Posted February 28, 2015 Author Posted February 28, 2015 I'll be finishing off the belt today. Is there a specific way the parachute clips on the sides of the thigh boxes face? I hope this makes sense: On the clips there is a single loop on one side and a thread loop with locking "teeth" on the other. Does lancer require these to have one or the other facing a specific direction? Thanks, Isaac
theisaac Posted February 28, 2015 Author Posted February 28, 2015 Looking at this image from the BSN gallery, it looks like the "thread through" side faces the thigh boxes. I'm assuming its reversed on the front as well?
Guest Mikhailov Posted February 28, 2015 Posted February 28, 2015 Yes, from what I've seen, the straps thread through the buckles (so the buckles are non-functional) and they are reversed on the other side, IIRC. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.
theisaac Posted March 1, 2015 Author Posted March 1, 2015 Is there a rule of thumb for how high the thigh boxes should sit? I'm nervous about making that last cut and rivet.
theisaac Posted March 1, 2015 Author Posted March 1, 2015 Based off this picture, it looks like they are pretty high and the boxes sit closer to the front than in the middle. 1
Griffin-X Posted March 2, 2015 Posted March 2, 2015 Good rule of thumb is no more than a 1.5" - 2" gap from the belt to the boxes. I keep mine right at 2" and it's perfect for me. 2
theisaac Posted March 2, 2015 Author Posted March 2, 2015 Jim - exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the tip!
SulacoBoy Posted March 8, 2015 Posted March 8, 2015 Love how the gloves fit like a glove haha. Looking good Isaac. 2
theisaac Posted April 26, 2015 Author Posted April 26, 2015 Need help with the belt. I can't get it to sit right. Does this look right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
theisaac Posted April 26, 2015 Author Posted April 26, 2015 I'm also done with the knee with extra rivet & elastic at 1/2 inch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1
stasz Posted April 27, 2015 Posted April 27, 2015 I undercut the slots on the buckle a bit on either side, a little longer than the top. If that makes sense I also used snaps and snap plates to attach the "front" belt piece (from buckle to thigh box) and then from The thigh box to the back nylon belt webbing, instead of running the whole belt straight through the thigh boxes.
stasz Posted April 27, 2015 Posted April 27, 2015 I couldn't get the boxes to lay nice with the belt running through them. I only used snaps because I had them and I was burned out on sewing Velcro by hand. But they worked out well.
theisaac Posted April 27, 2015 Author Posted April 27, 2015 I'm soooooo done with a sewing machine at this point lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
stasz Posted April 27, 2015 Posted April 27, 2015 Word. Looking back at your last post, are you talking about how the belt runs behind the clip, or coming out of the buckle?
theisaac Posted April 27, 2015 Author Posted April 27, 2015 When I put the belt on, it sits wonky. It doesn't feel like the boxes want to drop like I see in other builds. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
stasz Posted April 27, 2015 Posted April 27, 2015 That sounds like what mine were doing when I had the straps running through the boxes. They were sort of "floating". That's why I cut it into two pieces and joined inside the box. I know some of the guys (griffin?) have said they run theirs right through. I also remember seeing someone added some weight inside the box to help keep it down and sit more realistically.
theisaac Posted April 27, 2015 Author Posted April 27, 2015 I thought the belt had to be "unbroken" all the way around for lancer but I don't see that in the Lancer specs now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
stasz Posted April 27, 2015 Posted April 27, 2015 I remember seeing something like that as well, but always took it as the plastic part. "One piece or made to look like one piece" - something like that.
rasman06 Posted April 27, 2015 Posted April 27, 2015 I cut mine as well - but I didn't go for Lancer on this build, yet - so would be interested if that is the case for Lancer Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Griffin-X Posted April 27, 2015 Posted April 27, 2015 Here's the deal. The plastic parts of the belt should look "one-piece". The SC belt comes in 3 pieces, so you glue or attach the 2 smaller parts to make it looks "one-piece". The KS belt comes as a one-piece design (like mine). From that point, you attach the nylon webbing at the back with (1) single rivet on each side. Then, you add the drop boxes and corresponding webbing for them. I chose a 1.5" cotton webbing for mine and used one single piece that weaves between the front, strap locks, and boxes. It then attaches in the back (I use Velcro), similar to the on-screen scouts. Hope that makes sense... 3
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