freezerbee Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 I just received my lovely new, pre-primered MLC V.3 bucket and am looking for a good, airbrush-friendly auto enamel and compatible clearcoat so I can finally get this baby on my head. Can anyone recommend: • A brand that worked particularly well for them? • Any that I should avoid? • A latex liquidmask for detailing? • Any technique tips? (beyond wetsand/clean/dry/paint/wait/repeat) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chef Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Firstly I'd contact MLC and find out what primer he used on it. Paint is a fickle beast and if you get it wrong, and you end up with a wrinkly mess. When you know what he used, you can tailor your paint to suit. Detailing... I'd go with decals like the originals. Whether you use vinyl or water transfer ones, is entirely up to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freezerbee Posted July 28, 2014 Author Share Posted July 28, 2014 Good advice, thank you. Got the bucket from MC -- I'm trying to get an answer from his people on the primer variety but it's a busy, busy shop and I thought I'd ask around in the mean-time. Would you say people tend to eschew painted-on details in favor of the decals because they're more authentic? or simply because they're cheap and easy to replace vs. potentially botching the paint job? Now that I've typed it, I suspect it's really a combination of those three things but I'm still curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cucblack Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 If you have a compressor: Automotive paint. Better is polyurethane. With small Paint Gun. Solvent Thinner. Before paint, remove any primmer excess sanding in water. Piece must be extremely soft like a baby skin. Without sand lines, marks, holes, etc. Also before paint job, practice in other piece until get the correct technique. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chex Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 LIke Christian said, def wet sand the primer with some 400 grit or higher paper. I use 600 when I wet sand. YOu can actually use rattle cans if you want. I used Rustoleum high performance enamal. I sprayed a coat, let it cure, wet sanded, then repeated 3 times until I got the desired results. And I sprayed light coats, not thick. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freezerbee Posted July 29, 2014 Author Share Posted July 29, 2014 Do people clearcoat? or does that just get in the way if you ever need to add a fresh coat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spookymufu Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Pete, are contacting MC for the info or MLC directly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freezerbee Posted July 30, 2014 Author Share Posted July 30, 2014 Spooky, I've been contacting MC since he's conveniently local for me. I hadn't bugged MLC yet since I'm not sure if MC gets them primed from MLC or if he gets the raw helmets and has them primed. PM me if you can advise the best way to get ahold of him. It's such tidy fiberglass work so I'm anxious not to mess it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobik96 Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 It's probably an overkill but I used this on my CB helmet. I already had a compressor. Was very user friendly even for my first paint job. I bought this sprayer for $12 http://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-detail-spray-gun-92126.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freezerbee Posted July 30, 2014 Author Share Posted July 30, 2014 Hey man, it's not overkill if you look good, right? Thanks for the tip on the brand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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