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What can I start now?


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Strange question….I am looking to lose about 20 lbs before I suit up, but would love to get started on my armor before that. Are there any parts that I could do now that would still fit after the weight loss? I'm assuming really it's just the chest/back piece that would be issue. I'm thinking knees,shoulders,biceps, elbows should all be do-able now. Armor isn't purchased yet, looking into SC for my armor purchase in the next week or so.

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Strange question….I am looking to lose about 20 lbs before I suit up, but would love to get started on my armor before that. Are there any parts that I could do now that would still fit after the weight loss? I'm assuming really it's just the chest/back piece that would be issue. I'm thinking knees,shoulders,biceps, elbows should all be do-able now. Armor isn't purchased yet, looking into SC for my armor purchase in the next week or so.

 

The armor isn't going to be as much as an issue as the soft goods. If you lose 20 lbs (and congrats for embarking on that goal) that will most likely affect the size of your undersuit, bund and flak vest. I'd work on the armor while losing the weight, and just make sure you can adjust the chest piece velcro accordingly when you size down.

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What the gentleman up there said. There's plenty to work on the armor that isn't going to really change with 20 lbs of weight loss. Put your tank together and attach it, assemble the front of the belt (might want to hold off on cutting/fitting the back closure for size around your waist), trim corners and smooth edges. Most of it is held with elastic anyway.

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thanks again for the advice guys! Just ordered my SC armor this morning! Was told it should be ready to ship in about 14 days, so very excited to get started on it, as I'm teacher and would love to get it done while I'm on summer break.

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SC puts together a great package. Pretty much everything you need in one box

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Really looks like he includes just about everything. Been hitting up some other threads while I wait for it to ship to see what else I need. Going to pick up the rivet gun and rivets, e6000, and get my work bench cleared off for when it ships. Can't wait! KS helmet is on order as well, should be here beginning of August, fingers crossed. Would love to have this all together and be approved by Celebration!

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Some common tweaks to the SC kit are a better material for the back of the belt (I'm huge and needed more material anyway, was lucky enough to have a family member who could construct one for me out of white canvas), and possibly a stronger/more secure option for the clips that hold the thermal detonator on. Neither is by any means a requirement....just things I've seen done for a more secure or better-looking build. Go over other build threads like a madman, and you'll pick up all kinds of little tricks or things that might give you your own ideas.

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Oh yes, I did have to change out the clips for the TD. They just weren't happening. Got these instead:

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003IWPDY0/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Oh yes, I did have to change out the clips for the TD. They just weren't happening. Got these instead:

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003IWPDY0/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Did you need one or two? Thanks a lot.

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Two. I spray painted them flat black and then attached them to the TD tubing with zip ties.

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Musicaljedi, you can get a rivet gun and rivets at Harbor Freight for about $5, of course you'll need a lot more rivets but the tool and some rivets of different sizes will run ya $5

 

Picked up the rivet gun and an extra box of rivets there…thanks for the info! I may look into a palm sander from there as well. Going to pick-up a for sale sign or two to practice riveting on in the meantime. Armor should ship in 2-3 weeks, so hoping to have a good chunk of July to get it together.

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You'll also want some washers to fit the rivets...in both cases, the rivets should be the same width as the holes you drill (I used 1/8 inch or 3mm diameter, which I think is standard). Length just depends on how much material you need them to go through. Again, 1/8" worked for most of my attachments, but in a couple places I did end up using 1/4" long to get through multiple layers of fabric and plastic. If you have a rivet not pull through correctly, or forget to use a washer or something like that (which I did) you can drill through the center of them with the same size drill bit, and they'll come out. takes some patience but it means a mistake isn't permanent!

 

Remember to use a washer. Seriously. Especially with the fabric for webbing and attaching the holster to your boot. A rivet alone will pull right through the material. Learned this the hard way.

 

...I admit I copy/pasted all this from an answer I gave in another thread, but it's useful information here!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Small update. Have the upgraded snout piece and am going to paint that up soon. Should have my SC armor in the next 2 weeks hopefully. Ordered my blaster from NE and should have that in soon. Boots are also ordered. Been exercising and eating better, so hope to order my soft goods sometime in the early fall. Was told my KS helmet would ship by the beginning of August.

 

Quick question. Would a scrap of For Sale sign work for the piece to attach the hump to the back plate? Don't have a heat gun and was just thinking of using boiling water.

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Any piece of plastic or metal you can bend and rivet in will work. You could even screw in a small block of wood if that is what you have available. Just need a surface you can rivet the tank to that extends past the back plate ridge.

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