MLC v3 build - questions

[kay_dee]

I received my unpainted MLC helmet yesterday, and want to make sure I'm prepping it properly and hopefully, getting it up to Lancer approval specs.

 

My first questions are about the 3M bolts.

 

1) I see the photo in the lancer requirements actually shows the inner knobs. Would the lancer approval team really be checking the inside of the helmet for this? I'm leaning toward not using those black flower knobs because the wing nut that came with my helmet just seems much more solid.

 

 

- film-accurate or close approximation of visor hinge bolts

 

2) Next, I'm wondering if it is necessary for the entire 3M (or equivalent looking cover) to be recessed into the helmet for Lancer approval. Bravo to Centuri for dremelling out a recess http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=9910&st=0 - but I am personally terrified of ruining my helmet if I slip, go to far, etc. So is it fine for Lancer to allow the bolt cover bit to rest on top of the helmet?

 

3) I see some people have dremelled out a wider hole in the visor in order to accommodate the fat square part of the 3M bolt , basically utilizing the entire plastic bolt to hold the helmet together. I'm starting to lean against this. The 3M bolt is about 1/2" shorter than the metal bolts that came with the helmet, and I read that people who did use the 3M bolt had to machine a special longer nut just to make the connection work inside the helmet. I don't know, this just seems risky to me to have so little of the threaded bolt to work with once it goes into the helmet.

 

I'm thinking of taking the Mr.Bojangles approach instead and just cutting up the 3M bolt in order to glue that cover on my metal bolt. http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=7383&hl=%2Bhelmet+%2Bbolts&fromsearch=1

 

 

Visor Adjustment

 

So, when I try to open up my visor it really does not open very far, and parts of it are rubbing primer paint off of the main part of the helmet as it swings up. Have people found they needed to file and reshape parts of the visor so they don't rub against the helmet when it's opened up? (Not sure if I should risk this, or just know that I shouldn't be opening my helmet if I don't want my final paint job scratched up.

 

 

 

 

 

Primer

 

I've tried to e-mail Far Away Creations to ask what primer has been used on the helmet. I want to make sure there are not any compatibility issues. But if someone here knows off hand what they used that would be helpful.

 

Nose Vent decal

 

So, I see there are real vents cut above the snout on the MC helmet, but the film used helmets have decals (and I did get decals with my kit). I'm assuming that the decal just has to go over the cut vents and cover them up?

[Chex]

For the bolt covers. When we judge for Lancer, some if it is appearance, some of it is what you actually have. You don't have to use the whole bolt. My KS came built, so I pulled the crap bolt covers off, took the 3m and cut off the thread and grind down the back a little, then glued in place. It works. For that, we really only need the appearance.

 

If you're worried about paint rubbing off, maybe you could file down the inside of the visor? I'm not sure since I don't have an MLC bucket. The primer I used though when I built my clone, and also when I repainted my KS bucket, was an automotive primer I bought at Lowe's. It's the light gray one which was recommended to me by Evo3, and I trust his judgement. As for the vents above the snout, just use the decal.

[kay_dee]

Thanks Chex - good to know it just has to appear like a 3M bolt - and I am guessing I don't have to make the recessed appearance for the bolt the way some with fiber glass helmets have done (I'm not that steady with a dremel, don't want to risk ruining my helmet visor). It will be fine resting on top of the visor, correct?

 

My bucket came primed so I'm just hoping someone will be able to tell me what with so I can make sure paints don't have compatibility issues.

[4505Marcel]

I did the same with mine, just used the cut plastic disc part glued to the bolt

[spookymufu]

Hey kay_dee, I have ordered my MLC v3 and I got my shipping notice on the 28th of last month. I have requested the tracking number twice now and got no response at all, did you get a tracking number with yours and how long did it take to get it after your shipping notice?

 

Did you order yours from MC or directly from MLC?

[kay_dee]

Hi Spookymufu - I got my helmet second hand off a 501st member who decided not to do their scout build. So I didn't order from MC or MLC directly. Sorry I'm of no help there.

[kay_dee]

I did a bit of helmet prep today. I followed Centuri's lead and modified my chin cup to match the specs of the screen used helmet as closely as possible (Centuri's Thread: http://forum.bikersc...?showtopic=9910 ). I really needed to because the cup that came with my helmet was too big for my chin! I'm not sure if the latest run of MLC 3 helmets has a revised chin cup or not. My helmet was purchased originally in 2013.

 

Here is my process:

 

 

If you want to skip making your own cutting template, you can download mine and print it (72dpi). Do not print it directly from the browser window, it will print too small. (the ruler is in inches) http://kay-dee.net/c...t/chin-temp.jpg

 

You'll need to trace over it with tracing paper though so you can line up the center marks on your own chin cup before tracing onto the cup itself.

 

1) Sketched in pencil lines after studying dimensions on real chin cup seen here http://forum.bikersc...llery&album=145

 

 

 

I measured and marked the center line first actually (this is key to getting a balanced re-cut, do it carefully and check it several times)

 

2) I then placed tracing paper over the cup and traced my lines, including the center line and the elastic notches (the center line looks off because I forgot to photograph it while working on it. I quickly threw the tracing paper back on to sort of show the process).

 

 

3) I pulled off the tracing paper and folded it over on the center line in order to true up the pattern and make it symmetrical

 

 

Then cut it out while folded:

 

 

4) repeated the same process for the other section of the chin

 

 

5) Then erased the original rough sketch, keeping the center lines in tact (you need this to line up your final symmetrical pattern)

 

6) tape your patten back on, lining up carefully with your center marks. Then trace around it.

 

 

7) Finished cut lines:

 

 

8) Now dremel, and then then file down using a large flat file to get the sides straight and flat.

 

9) I also cleaned up the slots with some smaller round and flat files

 

 

10) Done!

 

 

[kay_dee]

I also worked on one bolt cover today, I am skipping cutting recessed areas into my visor for the bolts. My experimentation on plastic did not go smoothly enough for me to feel confident cutting up my helmet.

 

I used this idea from Mr.Bojangles: http://forum.bikersc...ts&fromsearch=1

 

I'm waiting to glue it in with epoxy until my helmet is painted so I can double check everything before assembling in case I need to tweak the alignment at all.

 

 

[spookymufu]

Hi Spookymufu - I got my helmet second hand off a 501st member who decided not to do their scout build. So I didn't order from MC or MLC directly. Sorry I'm of no help there.

 

okay, thanks