spookymufu Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 mine is pretty flat..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scout.trooper Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 mine is pretty flat..... Yeah, I see what you mean. Maybe it's the angle I was laying it down...? You're bucket looks really cool, by the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spookymufu Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 Thanks, you might have a v1 or v2 and that might be why it's different? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scout.trooper Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 I just took a look at my notes... it's a v3 helmet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spookymufu Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 maybe it is the angle then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scout.trooper Posted April 19, 2014 Author Share Posted April 19, 2014 She can sew!!!! Started hand sewing the elastic straps on my smaller armor pieces so it doesn't fray. Did a "back stitch" (I guess that's what it's called) with heavy thread and a needle sharp enough to make you swear when you stab yourself in the finger. It looks kinda sloppy in the pictures, but it's pretty sturdy and in the end that's what I was going for. I then sewed on the elastic over the fold-over to make it super strong. Was able to finish only one of the forearm guards. I've got the other one, both elbow, both bicep, and both knee pieces to sew. Anybody know a good song to sew to? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scout.trooper Posted April 20, 2014 Author Share Posted April 20, 2014 Finished the forearm plates! (Also, if anyone know how to make these pictures smaller, let me know!) I then noticed that for the front and back plates, the strap holes were too narrow. Took an exacto knife and trimmed the insides a bit. When I got closer to the shape that I wanted, I "shaved" the plastic away instead of sawing it. It was a bit rough on the inside (don't want the straps to get snagged), so I took a fine grit sanding sponge and sanded the inside of the armor. I didn't do the outside of the armor because it removes the finish and the rough plastic was mainly only on the inside anyway. Received my bund this week (thanks, Jim!). It's a bit snug for my frame so I've decided to extend it a bit. I only really need a few inches extra. My thoughts were to add fabric to the left side of the bund (the soft velcro closure side), remove the soft velcro, then re-sew the soft velcro to the new piece of fabric. About how much extra room I need to add A piece of paper showing how I plan to add the fabric. Hopefully, the end product will look like this but without the soft velcro showing Tips appreciated, especially in regards to the bund extension. Anyone else had to do something similar for their build? I want to make sure the bund passes inspection with my mods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerScout007 Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 Hey there, Mickey. What do you mean by that? Seam-rip the entire pants leg apart? Um, is there an easier way? How would I sew the pants leg back together? well you dont have to do the whole leg just the part opposite the patch. That way you can lay the pants flat without worrying about stitching through to the other side. Then when you are done, you just sew the leg seam back up. You could also use that as an opportunity to bring in some of the bagginess of the coveralls, depending on the size of your legs. I dont know if there's an easier way. That's the way I....I mean my mom.... did it! Oh and to sew it back up you would just turn the leg inside out and sew it back together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scout.trooper Posted April 23, 2014 Author Share Posted April 23, 2014 well you dont have to do the whole leg just the part opposite the patch. That way you can lay the pants flat without worrying about stitching through to the other side. Then when you are done, you just sew the leg seam back up. You could also use that as an opportunity to bring in some of the bagginess of the coveralls, depending on the size of your legs. I dont know if there's an easier way. That's the way I....I mean my mom.... did it! Oh and to sew it back up you would just turn the leg inside out and sew it back together Oh, I gotcha! I will try that, thanks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scout.trooper Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 Okay, ran into a small problem... Read the CRL and it says the check and back armor need to be attached by 2" webbing or elastic. Well, I went out and bought some but didn't realize how big it is. My armor indentions are only 1.5" wide and, if I were to try and extend the holes, I'd be running outside the indentions and into the armor plate itself which would probably ruin the integrity of the plastic in that section. Below, the 2" elastic I bought with dotted lines to better see the width. The actual measurement of the indention Is 2" webbing/elastic an absolute MUST? Or can I get away with 1.5"? That's just the way the armor was made. There's also good news... bought the necessary materials for my vest build (thanks to Thing who provided me with an awesome tutorial!). Below is the heavy weight cotton shirt with dotted lines showing how I plan to cut it up. I'll end up removing the sleeves, making the fabric-batting-fabric sandwich Thing told me to do, then re-sewing the sleeves on. I'll be using the bottom half of the shirt for the other half of the sandwich. I also plan to cut the neck a bit wider then just hem it a bit so there's no fray. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scout.trooper Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 Also, does anyone know where I can find: 2" sewable black elastic 2" black sew-to-sew velcro (not sticky back)? The elastic is for the thigh straps for the flight suit and the velcro is for the back of the flak vest. Haven't been able to find any either locally or online. Or would it be okay to use x2 1" velcro stips put together for the back of the vest (if they were set down vertically next to each other)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerScout007 Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 I got my 2 inch elastic from Joanne Fabrics. Amazon has this: http://www.amazon.com/Stretchrite-2-Inch-10-Yard-Stretch-Elastic/dp/B0018N5MS8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398366808&sr=8-1&keywords=2+inch+elastic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landeaux Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 I got my velcro from Hancock Fabrics and I think the elastic also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EnigmaEngine Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Hancock Fabrics and Hobby Lobby both provided some of the extra I needed for my build. The former had a better selection of both velcro and elastic, however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scout.trooper Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 I got most of my stuff from Joann Fabrics but their selection has been really bare lately. Tried Hobby Lobby too... little bit better selection but not what I need. Never heard of Hancock Fabrics... sounds cool but it's probably local to where you guys are. I'll probably end up getting that 2" elastic from online. Now I just can't find the 2" black velcro. If the side-by-side 1" velcro will pass inspection for non-Lancer status, then I guess I can do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerScout007 Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 Oh, I'm pretty sure that you can use 1.5 elastic on the chest piece. I believe that was changed.... or is going to be changed... or something. I'll need to find the thread. But that's what I ended up using, because 2 inches is clearly too wide based on screenshots from the film. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scout.trooper Posted April 25, 2014 Author Share Posted April 25, 2014 Just got a message back from Marcel... 2" is for Lancer status, 1.5" is fine for non-Lancer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scout.trooper Posted April 25, 2014 Author Share Posted April 25, 2014 So, yeah, was having a bad day... Now I'm not! I know I'm missing my pouches, my bicep armor plates are a bit saggy, I'm not wearing a flak vest, I'm pooping white webbing (because I forgot to cut off the extra stuff from the belt) and yeah, I'm doing the Superman pose so my belt stays up... but it's a scout! 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffin-X Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 Looking good, and LOL on pooping white webbing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EnigmaEngine Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 It's like goldfish poop. It'll break off and float to the bottom, just watch. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scout.trooper Posted April 25, 2014 Author Share Posted April 25, 2014 Looking good, and LOL on pooping white webbing! Spiders do it too. Maybe I have super powers... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scout.trooper Posted April 25, 2014 Author Share Posted April 25, 2014 Been looking that extra helmet padding and found this: http://www.motorcyclecloseouts.com/sport/helmet+parts/bell_replacement+liner+for+rs-1+helmets For $20, it looks pretty comfortable. Don't know about size but if it's big enough, I can just stuff it inside the helmet without having to glue it in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scout.trooper Posted April 25, 2014 Author Share Posted April 25, 2014 Or I can just add in velcro to the inside top of the helmet and put the other velcro piece on top of the foam pad. That could work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffin-X Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 In my buckets, I use a Walmart foam topper (used on beds), that I cut into 2" wide by 10" length rectangles. I fit those in the lid using Velcro circles (one side on the foam, one side on the lid), so they can be removed, or reset. Both my scouts are done this way and it works very well and can be easily adjusted. Cost: $8 http://www.walmart.c...r-Twin/10055840 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scout.trooper Posted May 4, 2014 Author Share Posted May 4, 2014 Ran into a few problems... mainly my sticky elastic pulling away from my armor pieces. It happened on all of them It seems that the problem was the tighter I pulled and set the elastic on the armor, the more overhang I had on the sticky-back elastic. This caused the edges to pull up. I pulled off the old stuff, wiped down the plastic, then laid down some new sticky-back velcro further away from the end of the elastic loops. It seems to be doing fine, but I'm still getting a little bit of "pull up" on it. Thoughts? I was also thinking about doing this as an alternative if the velcro kept pulling up: Would this type of closure be acceptable for clearance? I'm just afraid that this would put too much stress on the slots that were cut into the plastic since the elastic would be pulling on the weakest point of it. Bought some 2" thick semi-rigid foam for the pouches. I measured the pouches as best as I could and came up with a rough outline. I then used an exacto knife to cut the shape out. The result is a pouch rigid enough to hold shape but is squishy enough not to hurt when you bend down (thanks to all those scouts who replied to my thread about what they use in their pouches!) [ So when I'm ready to sew these pouches on to the bund, do they get sewn on like this: Or like this?: Started on the chest armor. Got the 1 1/2" white elastic in the slots. Was going to follow PandaTrooper's tutorial and just velcro them on the inside but, with all the trouble I had with that on the arm pieces, I don't know if it will hold. Was thiking about 2 different alternatives: Sew one end shut (as shown by the safety pin below) and then velcro only one side inside the armor. Would this be okay for clearance or does it have to be a seamless piece of elastic that's attatched to the inside armor?: Or just have one piece of elastic go all the way around and attatch it to the front by a snap buckle: I'm having doubts about that last one because if the buckle is in front, it would probably dig into the chest area. Anyway, got the velcro attatched to the inside shoulder plates. This is where the "T" belt will go that will attach to the shoulder armor. That's it for the chest armor right now. I'm not going to finish the straps until I can figure out how to get that damn tank attatched to the back... I cut up my heavy cotton shirt to prep it for sewing. I will be taking the sleeves off as well as hem the bottom and neck (sleeves to be re-attached later!) This is the first try: I re-measured the vest with the armor on and realized that it was still too long. I marked the shirt with chalk, cut it again, and modded the sleeves and neck. The sleeves should reach just below the shoulder bells (after hemming) and the neck should be slightly lower than the top of the chest "U". The next problem were the greeblies that came with my belt pack... the flat bottom of the rectangle and the button greeblies made it impossible to attach: Rectangle: Button: I tried sanding it down to round it out but that didn't work. The rectangle greeblie itself was even too big for the belt pack face... it's right up against the zip tie: So what's a girl to do? Well, with some hot jams on my ipod, 5 hours of time, and a LOT of patience, I built new greeblies with a 3D modelling program and printed them out in black plastic with a 3D printer. I also scaled the greeblies down and rounded out the bottoms so they would fit in the recess of the belt pack. Original on top, new one on the bottom: Rounded bottom of the rectangular greeblie: Rounded bottom of the button: New rectangular greeblie on the pack: How it sits: Button: Let me know what you think and if they would pass clearance. I know you can see the print lines, but I think with a little sanding to smooth them out it should be a perfect match. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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