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Scout.Trooper's Scout Trooper Build!


scout.trooper

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In hindsight, I probably should have picked a differed user name :P

 

Anyway, at long last, my armor has arrived! Check out the attachment for the pics. The bucket is all done and I am currently working on the armor pieces. You can see the belt pieces that I put together w/the webbing and I am in the process of sewing the elastic for the elbow and knee shells. A few things I would like to ask the community... Do I need a rivet gun to attach the belt straps? If yes, howdo you use a rivet gun? (Bear with me here, I've never had a cause to rivet anything before!). Also, how does the bucket and snout look? The lens okay? Lastly, how would I go about attaching the tank? If you look at the pics, there is a hold on the base of the tank and a hole on the back armor plate... do I run a pole or tie through them or do I just glue the top panel of the tank to the back plate (this assembly wasn't in the instructions...). It's a work in progress, but I'm getting there!

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First suggestion from me, try using photobucket or something like that so you can copy and paste the image link into your comment to make it easier for people to see your pictures.

 

For the rivet gun I just looked up some videos on youtube. There's some good ones on there and once you see how to do it, it's real easy and you want to rivet everything.

 

I went through PandaTrooper's build feed when building a lot of my armor. It's very good and the descriptions really help when it comes to putting on the tank.

 

Good luck! Enjoy!

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Also, your fish hook on the side of the helmet is upside down. It needs to be rotated 180 degrees. It's the accurate fish hook so make sure that if you can't reuse the one you have, make sure you find on trooper bay or ebay the same hook.

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I slap my pictures on imgur, then direct link 'em here.

 

I got a rivet gun from Home Depot for $20, and a container of rivets for $5. You'll also want some washers to fit the rivets...in both cases, the rivets should be the same width as the holes you drill (I used 1/8 inch or 3mm diameter, which I think is standard). Length just depends on how much material you need them to go through. Again, 1/8" worked for most of my attachments, but in a couple places I did end up using 1/4" long to get through multiple layers of fabric and plastic. If you have a rivet not pull through correctly, or forget to use a washer or something like that (which I did) you can drill through the center of them with the same size drill bit, and they'll come out. takes some patience but it means a mistake isn't permanent!

 

Remember to use a washer. Seriously. Especially with the fabric for webbing and attaching the holster to your boot. A rivet alone will pull right through the material. Learned this the hard way.

 

And yeah, a single rivet goes through the top of the tank, and another through the bottom. Is it an SC armor kit, or another? My SC came with pretty good instructions, though I did a LOT of cross-referencing with other build threads here. Pandatrooper's especially.

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It's an MC kit. I'll take a look at PandaTrooper's thread. And sorry about the Word doc attachment... I tried one of the image hosting sites once and they were jerking me around about my account and I haven't had a chance to try another one. Will attempt to rectify in the future!

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Thanks for all the tips! They're much appreciated! I'll be sizing up the belt in the next few days... I'm pretty sure it'll need to be cut down. I'm also probably going to end up getting some new elastic straps for the sake of accuracy. Oh, and I got my rivet popper! One question about that, though... I was debating the whole steel rivets vs. aluminum rivets. My pros vs. cons: Steel is stronger (better to grip elastic!), aluminum is softer (easier to rivet through plastic); steel can rust over time, aluminum doesn't rust but is subject to metal fatigue. Does anyone find that using one type of rivet over the other is better? More pictures on the way!

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Aluminum worked for me. I imagine it's easier to drill out if you make a mistake, and it's held my cloth/elasic/vinyl just fine. I did double over the elastic before riveting through it (made a small hole with the point of xacto knife) as per Panda's build.

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Aluminum rivets are the most common type used (at least that I have seen). That's what I used for both my scouts. It's easier to break the stem off once you crimp the rivet. With steel, it's a little harder to squeeze the rivet tool and break the stem. I hope that makes sense. :blink:

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I use the aluminum rivets with home-made ABS washers. For example, on my boot holster, I rivet through the holster->boot->ABS washer (made from scraps). I'm using 1/8"x1/4" rivets for mine and it holds very well. It's the same way I did my knee straps, belt webbing in the back, etc.

 

IMG_4134b_zps1b3526b2.jpg

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I used store-bought aluminum washers with a 1/8" hole to match the rivets. Mostly used 1/8" long rivets, but I did use a couple 1/4" long where they had to go through more material.

 

I figure rust-resistant is more important than metal fatigue. I can always pop a new rivet in, versus the potential for rust with all the moisture from rain, humidity, and sweat.

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Aluminum rivets will work fine. You only need steel rivets when shear strength is important...usually for connecting metal on metal. Unless you are using your scout armor for paintball/airsoft you should never put the kind of stress on it that would require steel rivets.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Awesome. Thanks, guys!

 

UPDATE

I promised pics so here they are!

Putting the belt together by threading the straps behind the "belt buckle"

FuWwyeu.jpg?1

QHqdvPf.jpg

 

The tank has a plastic "bar" across the top for riveting to the back plate. Is there a limit to how many rivets go in the top? It also has the itty bitty hole at the bottom for another rivet. Does the bottom rivet have to be attached to anything? The way it fits to the back plate, it doesn't look like it'll latch on to anything. Is this normal?

Hm6I1ZI.jpg

 

The helmet! Showing the insides because I need more padding. Anyone know where I can get some motorcycle or football helmet replacement padding?

o6ROC86.jpg

 

Also, just for the heck of it, my tub! I guess the correct term is "Armor Transportation Case." The white parts are just paper for now so I could see what it would look like in the end... I plan on replacing the paper and covering the tub with white duct tape. So hey, if you get a crack in your armor before a troop and need a quick fix, I'll have extra tape in my tub!

44zzhaK.jpg

lA4GZ6y.jpg

e0qUIFi.jpg

 

Thanks for everyone who commented so far. Your help is greatly appreciated!

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One other thing...

I'm working on modding my undersuit, an RK coverall. It says the coverall is sized to fit over regular clothing and even has open slots in the sides to get to your inner pants pockets. Do you wear regular clothes (t-shirt and jeans) under the coverall? I tried mine on over regular clothes and it seems really puffy... not at all "fitted" like the requirements say it should be.

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Just boxers, socks, and a tight white tanktop.

 

Enjoy that mental picture.

 

Haha, thanks Dylan! ;)

You know, in all the James Bond type movies I've seen when the good guy is the in evil villains lair and he steals a bad guys armor for disguise, the poor guy is always tied up and left in his underwear so I guess that makes sense!

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Did some more work this week. One thing I'm stumped on is how to attach the bottom of the tank to the botton of the back armor...

This pic shows the two pieces put together

G6qtkwf.jpg

 

This pic shows the gap between the two on the inside. It's a good 2 inches or so. Because the tank bottom is rounded out, if I were to put a rivet through the back armor, it wouldn't touch the tank.

T6TNVaM.jpg

 

Working on modding the undersuit. I followed Griffin's advice and modded one of the pockets into a collar.

0ubxDDj.jpg

QfklA4g.jpg

 

The tricky thing was getting that mudflap just right. It looks kind of short in this pic...

VD7MDQM.jpg

 

But when I wear the suit, it comes just above the rear end (like everyone said it should).

y3MyKjm.jpg

 

Was going to start on the riding patch but had a REALLY hard time trying to figure out how to sew it. Apparently, we don't have a "pants machine" that's made to sew inseams. I heard someone mention "Magic Web" or something where you can iron on the material?

 

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UPDATE: Got a replacement helmet decal in the mail! Here's how it looks now (I kinda had to eyeball the placement):

 

mkCjMuO.jpg

 

Got my elastic cut. Working on sewing the velcro on the forearm, bicep, and knee armor.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Was going to start on the riding patch but had a REALLY hard time trying to figure out how to sew it. Apparently, we don't have a "pants machine" that's made to sew inseams. I heard someone mention "Magic Web" or something where you can iron on the material?

 

You just need to bust out the seam on the opposite side of the leg. then you can sew it without too much trouble

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You just need to bust out the seam on the opposite side of the leg. then you can sew it without too much trouble

 

Hey there, Mickey. What do you mean by that? Seam-rip the entire pants leg apart? Um, is there an easier way? How would I sew the pants leg back together?

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scout.trooper, what helmet is that? It looks like a MLC but the snout on mine doesnt kick out like that one.

 

Hey, Scott. Yeah, it's an MLC by way of MC. I thought it was just like the others... what does your snout look like?

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