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BatNinja's CB Helmet!


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My new helmet arrived last week, and I gotta say I'm extremely impressed with the craftsmanship on this piece. It's constructed of fiberglass, very lightweight, and pretty much ready to paint right out of the box.

 

Of course, I couldn't wait to get started, so I've already replaced the hinge bolts with the black version of the accurate ones (had to drill and file the square shaped holes). I've ordered another set of the grey ones as replacements.

 

Here are some camera-phone pics; I'll take more later when I have decent afternoon lighting.

new_CB_helmet_zpscde3acd4.png

 

As posted in another thread, here is a size comparison shot of it next to the smaller KS kit:

2014-01-31133933_zps7e12a36f.jpg

The bucket is large enough to fit onto my head without even having to raise the visor!

 

And it also comes with all the goodies, including a fiberglass chin cup with strap, decal set, screens, visor, bolt covers, and snout plate and greeblie.

2014-02-02195538_zps63a39116.jpg

 

Overall, I'm extremely happy with the kit. As soon as my MonCal armor arrives, I'm taking this baby to a auto painting shop to have them color-match the ABS.

 

As I mentioned before, if you decide to buy this kit, make sure to have him include tracking with EMS (even if you have to pay for it). I was able to track it all the way to my post office, and it arrived in less than 2 weeks!

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That is a good lookin' helmet. I love those ear holes. I'm still underwhelmed by the lightweight feel of the KS helmet and would someday like to jump up to fiberglass or resin. Also, on me, the KS is so small on me that when I tried a chin cup, it was constantly clicking against the bottom of the faceplate and drove me crazy.

 

Good call swaping the bolts. Those covers wouldn't look right. I don't understand why he and KS don't just pick up elevator bolts from a hardware store to ship with their helmets. They're not expensive at all and look better because they're flat. They ship a regular bolt and a cover instead. I can't see the details on the snout greeblie. Is that correct, or is it more like the one that ships with the KS? I think it looks better with the backplate as one piece the way DVH makes em.

 

Did you see my thread from a few months ago about the CB decals? It looks like the grey he's using is still too dark. Also, what are those two longer black decals? Is that something I'm missing? So confused.

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Did you see my thread from a few months ago about the CB decals? It looks like the grey he's using is still too dark. Also, what are those two longer black decals? Is that something I'm missing? So confused.

 

Guessing the longer black decals are for the black around the nose plate.

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Lazy Sunday project...

 

CB's bucket kit includes a two-piece (upper/lower) snout base, as seen in the pics above. And the one included in my MC armor kit is too short for the CB lid. So I decided to make my own plate for the snout.

 

The greeble I'm using is from don_jarr on eBay. The plastic is from Evergreen Scale Models (available from a few hobby stores, but none in my area, so I had to order a sampler direct from the manufacturer). The base plate is .060" and the layer plate is .040".

 

2014-02-09173823_zpsc73c51ef.jpg

 

The width came out right at 1 1/8".

2014-02-09174726_zpsa394f9f6.jpg

 

As luck would have it, I had a coin (from a local car wash) that is 1 1/8" in diameter! Once the glue on the plates has dried, I'll use the coin to mark the upper arc of the snout.

2014-02-09174908_zps641cdfd6.jpg

 

Walking Dead is coming up tonight, so more updates later this week..

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Good call swaping the bolts. Those covers wouldn't look right. I don't understand why he and KS don't just pick up elevator bolts from a hardware store to ship with their helmets. They're not expensive at all and look better because they're flat. They ship a regular bolt and a cover instead.

 

I tried to get this from 3M store, but they not ship to Bolivia. And also get some one in any where, and with no good results. Always I'm thinking in make them in a resin cast, but I don't have it... :(

 

I got the correct measures and I made my own resin bolts. Any way the 3M bolts should fit good.

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Oh yeah, I forget you and KS are in other countries where with different things available to you. Elevator bolts make it easier to take apart without having to pry off a cover to get to the bolt. If you cut the hole in the visor square you won't need to hold the bolt to tighten nut inside.

 

I found my 1" (diameter of the top surface) elevator bolts at Lowe's to replace the 1.25" ones I got at the little hardware store in my neighborhood. I think this is the one I used (LINK), but I might have gotten them longer and cut off the excess where they stick inside too far. They don't tell you the size of the top part in the description, but I know the ones from Lowe's were smaller and looked more correct than the local guy.

 

The accurate 3M bolts are flat on top, right? CB's cast ones look rounded in the picture above. I believe what KS sent me with my kit was plastic feet for furniture to protect flooring, which are also very rounded and have a black outline.

 

EDIT: sorry, I see there are bolts originally on it in the picture and re-read CB's post about "casting bolts" not covers. So what are the rounded clear things in the picture of the accessories?

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Awesome job on the greeblie! What tools did you use to score and cut the plastic? It looks flawless! I just sold my MLCv3 so that I could get myself a new CB bucket. So I'll be following this thread closely!

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I used an X-Acto knife along a metal ruler to score the 1 1/8" width of the plates. After I traced the coin for the upper arc, I used a Dremel with a cutting disc to get it close, then switched to a sanding drum to whittle down to the pencil line.

 

Then I sanded with a couple sanding sponges to clean up the arc.

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Here in the States, it's Presidents' Day, so we have the day off! A fact I discovered after waking up at 6AM and driving 45 minutes to an empty office building...

 

Anyway, I decided to start the painting process. The first step was modify an old patio table to a paint stand (with a 15" Parsons table leg and an old plastic bowl):

 

2014-02-17085548_zps93c76678.jpg

 

Using Rustoleum Automotive Enamel paint, I finished the first coat on the back part of the helmet:

2014-02-17090611_zps69161343.jpg

 

I'm pretty pleased with the results so far. VERY high gloss and I can't see any noticeable paint runs. Later this afternoon, I'll hit it with a second coat, and maybe a light third coat tomorrow. Once both pieces are painted, I plan to use 1000/1500/2000-grit sandpaper to wetsand the surface.

 

At that point, I haven't decided what to use to polish. I've got Novus polish, but not sure if that will work for enamel paint. I've also thought about standard auto polish (i.e. Turtle Wax), and heard that (believe it or not)...floor wax.

 

Thoughts?

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I'm pretty pleased with the results so far. VERY high gloss and I can't see any noticeable paint runs. Later this afternoon, I'll hit it with a second coat, and maybe a light third coat tomorrow. Once both pieces are painted, I plan to use 1000/1500/2000-grit sandpaper to wetsand the surface.

 

At that point, I haven't decided what to use to polish. I've got Novus polish, but not sure if that will work for enamel paint. I've also thought about standard auto polish (i.e. Turtle Wax), and heard that (believe it or not)...floor wax.

 

Thoughts?

 

If the paint job result good, without visible paint-runs... avoid sand paper, is not necessary... Use a "car wax polish", I recommend 3M. Also this wax help to dry the paint avoiding fingers mark. And reduce the smell paint

 

Good Job!!!

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