BikerScout007 Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Hey everyone, trying to get started on my scout, thought the undersuit would be a good place to begin. Are people sewing on the thigh patches or attaching the with fabric glue? And if sewing them, are you using a machine or hand sewing? As for the butt flap.... is that being sewn on as well, or attached with velcro? thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dart Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 It can be tricky, but sewing the patch is usually the best way to go. The mudflap can be attached with velcro, or sewn on, your choice. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NegativeEleven Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 I used a sewing machine... actually my mom came to town and used my sewing machine because I couldn't figure out how to get it under there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerScout007 Posted January 10, 2014 Author Share Posted January 10, 2014 I used a sewing machine... actually my mom came to town and used my sewing machine because I couldn't figure out how to get it under there. Hahaha. I'm drafting my mom to the cause as well. Just wanted to know what to tell her! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chef Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 Yup, sewing is the best way. You could use a fabric glue to hold the patch in place, but best to sew around the edges as well. The rear flap, again, just a single stitch line sewn across the top edge to hold it in place. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerScout007 Posted January 10, 2014 Author Share Posted January 10, 2014 Yup, sewing is the best way. You could use a fabric glue to hold the patch in place, but best to sew around the edges as well. The rear flap, again, just a single stitch line sewn across the top edge to hold it in place. Awesome! Thanks so much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NegativeEleven Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 Real suede isn't supposed to go in the washing machine, so I try to remember to take off the flap every time I wash it (that's why I used velcro for that). Although twice at DragonCon, I left the hotel room without the flap because it was forgotten at the bottom of the armor box. Ah the perils of removable pieces that you don't notice while you're wearing the suit! I can't remove the riding patch, so soon, I suspect, we'll see a difference between the two and I might have to swap that out for fake suede. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4505Marcel Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 Real suede is just fine through the washing machine guys, I've washed mine dozens of times. It actually gets better with each wash as it fades a little 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chef Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 Yup, mine's been washed aplenty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerScout007 Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 Real suede users: Are you ordering from Tandy? How much suede material did you need to order? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NegativeEleven Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 I got mine from Tandy, I think it was 2 square feet and that was enough for the patch and two flaps. edit: it says 5-6square feet for $30 on Tandy's site. I know I didn't get 5 square feet, but I think it was $21 when I bought it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerScout007 Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 Awesome! I just found out there's a Tandy leather close to me so I'm going to check it out in person. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dart Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Here's a question: I'm going to be upgrading my patch and flap - what type of suede is best? I'm just concerned that I get the wrong one and it shrinks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4505Marcel Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Just get the thinnest black pig suede they have 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerScout007 Posted July 6, 2014 Author Share Posted July 6, 2014 Well after the sweat-filled 4th of July parade yesterday it was finally time to wash the undersuit. The Tandy suede came out of the wash fine. Maybe a little less smooth but that's okay. I hung it out to dry and in our 92 degree weather it dried in about 20 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topherhunter Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 On the suede: Tandy usually has some nice pig leather that works beautifully. Just apply the inner/sueded side facing out. On sewing: it's not too hard to learn to use a sewing machine; start with some scraps of fabric to get the feel for stitch length, zig-zag, speed, etc. Buy some decent nylon thread and a leather needle for your machine, and it'll make short work of things. That said... you'll probably find that fishing the suit over your machine's lower assembly (the platform the fabric rests on) will be a pain. Take lots of breaks and deep breaths, and play with different orientations. Have a seam ripper on hand so you can undo mistakes. Above all, be patient. You'll get there. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerScout007 Posted July 8, 2014 Author Share Posted July 8, 2014 On the suede: Tandy usually has some nice pig leather that works beautifully. Just apply the inner/sueded side facing out. On sewing: it's not too hard to learn to use a sewing machine; start with some scraps of fabric to get the feel for stitch length, zig-zag, speed, etc. Buy some decent nylon thread and a leather needle for your machine, and it'll make short work of things. That said... you'll probably find that fishing the suit over your machine's lower assembly (the platform the fabric rests on) will be a pain. Take lots of breaks and deep breaths, and play with different orientations. Have a seam ripper on hand so you can undo mistakes. Above all, be patient. You'll get there. Thanks! This is actually an old thread and I did end up sewing real suede onto my undersuit. I didnt do the sewing, though. That's what mom is for! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TreeDodger72 Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Is this what I should be getting for the suede patches and mudflap? I have never used suede before so I just want to make sure that I am getting the right thing. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/leather/suedessplits/9122-21.aspx Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chunk Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 I have a tutorial here on attaching the riding patch. But you can use micro fiber (faux suede) or you can use 1.5g-2.5g pig skin leather. You don't want to go any thinker than the 2.5g because you can't sew with a regualr sewin machine. Anyhoo I belive the question was how to attach the riding patch. You will want to sew it on, NEVER USE GLUE!!! MICRO FIBER, If your using the micro fiber you will want to use "Heat & Bond HEAVY DUTY".(red letters) This will basicly turn your patch in to an iron on. What you will do is cut your riding patch out(heam the edges if you have a material that will unravel) trace this pattern onto the Heat & Bond & cut out the shape. Next you will want to apply to the riding patch. Set your iron on to high, lay the riding patch with the "suede" facing down, place the Heat & Bond on top of the riding patch & hold in place. Place the hot iron on, lift & replace on the next section. I think this has to be repeated 4x-5x to cover the whole riding patch. Depends on how big you patch is, might be more or less. Depends on how big you are. Now here come the hard part. lay your jumpsuit with the legs wide open(make sure your leg bands are already attached) Fold the riding patch in half & test fit this on the jumpsuit. You will want to line up the fold crease with the middle seam on the jumpsuit. Now peel off the protective layer on the Heat & Bond & do another test fitting. Once your ready to commit do as before. Place the patch in the desired position(matching fold crease & seam) place the Heat & Bond side down & hold yur patch in place. Place the hot iron down for a few seconds, lift & repete like before. Imediatly take to your sewing machine & sew it down while the Heat & Bond is still warm. This is how I attached the riding patch to all my basic suits. REAL LEATHER(suede), if your using real suede the Heat & Bond will not work. You will need to cut out your riding patch pattern & pin in place. This will cause lots of finger pricks & F Bombs dropped But it will look hella nice when done. Ok back to the instructions. After you cut out your shape fold & try to get a fold crease. Not as easy with real leather but it can be done. Place fold crease on the center seam like in above directions. But now you will slowly pin in place with straingt pins. I've found its easier if you use the straight pins with the colored ball ends. This is easier on your fingers as there is more to push on. Real leather is tough! Once you have in place you will sew VERY SLOWLY with your sewing machine. You will need to switch your sewing machines needle to a Heavy Duty needle. Use a size 16 or 16g sewing needle. I buy these in a 10pk for $3. I've seen these at Walmart for around $5 for a 5pk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chef Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Quick note... If you're going "Lancer" then you will need 'real suede'. Also, getting a specific 'leather' needle for your machine rather than just a heavy duty/denim needle will make a world of difference. The head of the needle is more spade shaped and punches a hole for the thread to catch on, rather than piercing it and allowing the warp/weft of the fabric to do the rest. Trust me, it will result in a lot less 'dropped' stitches on your machine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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