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NegativeEleven's budget blaster (re)build


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Update May 2014: Sale thread over in the trade forum: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=11557

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Almost there guys. A lot of people have asked when I'll make more blasters. I am almost done with a 2nd mold of my modded Kenner blaster and should be able to pour more next week if everything works out. Here's a rundown of the process.

 

I started with this straight up recast of a Kenner blaster I found on eBay. You could even see the outline of the "Return of the Jedi" stickers that were left on it when it was molded.

iceman02.jpg

 

I sanded off some of the excess details and cut off the trigger. Sanding the texture off the handle took a while and required cutting off the pressure button, so I replaced that with the correct transistor and slotted screws. I carved away at the scope for a while so I could put the accurate scope ring on there, then built up the base underneath the scope ring with bondo.

 

taylorsblaster.jpg

 

Size compare with an older scout's movie sized blaster:

size-compare-02.jpg

 

This was one of the first two-part molds I've made, so a lot of trial and error led to decent castings with a lot of air pockets that had to be filled with bondo before I could sell them. Making blasters took a long time and since it's a Kenner (10% larger than the original), I felt I couldn't sell them for the $80-$125 that other blasters are going for on the boards here. I cut it to half of that, despite the fact they were way more work to make because of the incorrect mold. Now that I know a lot more about making molds, I decided to remake it. I figured if I'm pouring close to $100 worth of silicone, I might as well make the original blaster better before I mold it. I've spent the last month and a half trimming more of the details, cleaning up the lines, and replacing some other parts (especially the screws in the finger guard).

 

I tried a different approach to the scope's mold. I made it one piece split down the inner side of the scope where you won't see a seam and I made the eyepiece the pour spout. If the resin is relatively bubble-free, this will take almost no effort to clean up right out of the mold.

scope-mold.jpg

 

I'm trying the blaster mold again with several pour spouts so air doesn't get trapped in the spots I always had trouble with in the last mold. I had to keep adding cuts to the silicone on the last mold to let the air out and that led to a lot of excess resin that had to be cut away when the blasters were made. I was wasting a lot of material and making more work for myself. Hopefully this will work better and I can be back to pouring blasters soon.

blaster-mold01.jpg

 

Based on troubles I had with the last mold, I've already made separate molds of the barrel and the rings on the back (power supply?) so that if those pieces don't cure properly, I can make replacements to screw on right away.

 

I have troops on Friday and Saturday, so I should be posting early next week to let you guys know if I'm back in business.

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It's mostly gravity more than magic. I don't think you can read how to make molds, you just have to try it (much like StudioCreations vac-forming tutorial says you have to be prepared to ruin a lot of plastic while figuring it out). I'm on my fifth gallon of silicone, but every bad mold is a learning experience. You figure out where air gets trapped and where spills are gonna happen.

 

I am thinking my next step is to buy a slower curing resin. The one that cures in 7 minutes doesn't let bubbles rise before it is hard. I built a vac chamber to get bubbles out, but I can't leave it in there long enough to get all the bubbles out.

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I'm pretty happy with this first pull (the blue is clay from the original that was stuck in the mold). I haven't trimmed anything, just had to break off the pour spout parts to get it out of the mold. There's definitely some air getting trapped in a few spots. I think I can just cut a little away from the mold to get that figured out. The new screws on the finger guard didn't come thru in the casting, so I might have to cast those separate and glue em on or put real screws into each blaster. The other side looks amazing. A couple of bubbles in the mold, but those can easily be cut out of the castings with an Xacto knife.

firstpull-inside.jpg

 

firstpull-outside.jpg

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  • 3 months later...

If you've bought one of my blasters without magnets in the pressure button (for holding it in the holster), here's my tutorial for adding them: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=11894

 

And hey, I just realized there's no picture of a finished blaster in this thread, so let's borrow a picture from that tutuorial:

transistor_magnets.jpg

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