Helmet paint!

[ShaneArc]

Hi everyone,

 

I've managed to sort out a whole kit which has been pre-approved The only thing that I need to change in time is that the Helmet is going off-white. I have no idea how to paint the fibreglass helmet, or what paints to use!

 

If anyone could tell me what to use and the best way to apply it - that would be fantastic!

 

Thanks everyone!

[EnigmaEngine]

I've heard (and would logically think) automotive body paint is best for fiberglass. Unfortunately I can't say more than that. It's top secret.

 

....no, I just don't know more than that.

[Chef]

As above...

 

Any automotive style paint is suitable for Fibreglass. To be fair, it's pretty stable with most paints, but a decent paint is always best.

 

You can use 'rattle can' style paints, but make sure you use the same brand primer and top coat otherwise you may suffer rather nasty side effects. A 2k (Two-Pack) paint system is much better because it has a catalyst hardener in it rather than being air-cured.

 

As with all paint jobs, preparation is 90% of the finish. Use a decent wet and dry paper, say about 400/600 grit to flat your bucket in preparation for primer. Give it a hit of primer and let it cure. Flat this back with some 800 and give another coat of primer. Always check to make sure any indents, rough spots or imperfections are removed at this stage. It makes the top coat much easier.

When all cured, hit it with the top coat and let it cure. If the finish is good enough at this stage, you can just polish, sit back and marvel at your handiwork.

If not. Flat with a bit of 1200 and re-shoot with top coat.

 

As with everything, take your time and don't rush it.

[Lucky Jack]

Nicely put. I'm considering switching to a fiberglass bucket - my current ABS one has seen a lot of action !

 

I've never worked with Automotive paints and figured hey.....lemme post this as others (including the poster) might be in the same boat.

 

Rattle cans are easy to find - every tool store has a selection of high quality ones - Lowe's, Home Depot, Walmart, etc (for US Scouts)

 

But where do you find automotive paints - I assume auto stores (ie. Napa, etc) ? Are they also rattle can applications ? And the primer....I assume use an automotive type primer too ?

 

Last thing any of us would want to do.....mess up a spiffy new fiberglass bucket with a bad technique !

[Guest hel0wrench]

Auto stores are the best places to find the right paint. Rattle cans, or as I call them spray bomb, can be found just about anywhere, but if you're not sure what you're looking for hit Discount Auto, NAPA, O'Reilly's etc. As stated above, a chemical cure will give you a nicer, cleaner finish and if applied properly (no wind, low humidity, no extreme temps, light coats until the color is saturated). Most spray cans are air curing, meaning that you leave it be, in good conditions for about 24 hours until the air has hardened the paint.

 

My preference for primer is to use a filler/sandable primer of the same brand as the paint you're going to use. I like that primer because it's a little thicker and will help hide any minor imperfections in the helmet. It also is a little more giving when sanding before paint so you don't eat through to bare fiberglass. Again with the primer, let it air cure for about 24 hours before touching it.

 

Another note to those learning to paint: keep all solvents and greases away! Even having WD-40 on a rag near you during the prepping and priming/painting process will leave horrible results on your finish. Like Chef said, prepping is 90% of the finish

[Chef]

Yeah. As Sean says you can get a Two-Pack paint in a rattle style can, so you don't have to have all the correct spray guns, compressors and the such like.

It will be more expensive than the air-cure acrylic style paints, but the finish will be better and more hard wearing.

 

 

The preparation method for both is pretty much the same. Making sure the surface is clean and free from grease and dust.

 

The warning about keeping solvents away is probably the biggest one to take heed of. Any silicates or silicone based products anywhere nearby will be an untold nightmare.

No hairsprays, greases, lubes or otherwise. They'll either cause wrinkling, orange peel or fish eyes. All of which are a ball-ache to remedy.

 

You can use a high build primer if the surface is poor, but a good GRP (Fibreglass) lid should not require one.

 

I used to make GRP Lids with a white Gel-Coat that required no painting what so ever (barring the snout...). The Gel was sufficient enough to just flat and polish as if it was a paint.

 

 

But feel safe in the knowledge that GRP is very robust, and if your paint finish does go a bit 'pete tong', then it can easily be flatted back out and re-painted.

Annoying... yes...

End of the world... No.