Guest Axelay Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 Oh boy. I think I may have more work cut out for myself than I had originally thought. I recently bought a set of mostly complete armor for $500. It's not in such good condition, though, and so I'm seeking advice on how I should best go about restoring this. The helmet is fiberglass, and I don't know the crafter. Structurally, it seems pretty sound as I can't find damage anywhere. Cosmetically, though... ugh. Much work to do here. This is the very first time I've ever done anything like this, and so I'd like to ask for as much advice as possible so that I can try to get good results. I'm attaching images of the faceplate just to show what I'm up against. Decals aren't straight. Paint apps are sloppy, especially on the snout and its greeblies. The bridge-of-the-nose piece is completely sealed with hot glue for reasons which I don't understand. The visor is completely gone (the previous owner told me that he cracked it), and there's a ton of hot glue residue left over. Backside doesn't worry me as much beyond the visor attachment. I just don't even know what happened here... From another angle. There's quite a bit of discoloration. I am not sure how viable sanding + repainting would be on fiberglass. Closeup of some of the discoloration, random paint flecks (I don't really know what this is, but it's not coming off with water + cloth, Clorox wipes, or Magic Eraser), and hot glue residue. More discoloration. So my plan thus far is this: - Remove snout and replace with LW centerpiece + greeblies. - Install new lens. Duh. - Remove hot glue residue from every surface - nose, eyes, etc. - This helmet has black mesh installed in the ears. I'm currently on the fence about removing this, but I suspect that it needs to come out and the insides need to be painted black. - Install helmet liner or hard hat pads. - Remove decals and replace. (This goes for the rest of the helmet as well.) - Install 3M-style bolts. - Install chinstrap and cup. So I'd really appreciate advice on how to best clean this thing up. If I do decide to repaint it, when recommendations would you make for paint? I am as open to suggestion here as I can possibly be. I know that some of you may think I should just get another bucket, but I'd like to try to salvage this one first... Ths overall shape (not condition) of the helmet seems to be a good sculpt. The dome needs about the same amount of work as the faceplate. I'll try to shoot images of it when I get a chance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffin-X Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 Okay...good and bad. First the good: it looks like an MLC helmet. Of course, it could be a recast (also in fiber glass) but I think it's a real MLC. The bad: you really should strip it down, sand it, prime it, and repaint it gloss white. I'll look much better and last longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automaton Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 That's definitely an MLC. Doesn't look like a recast to me. So you have a great helmet there. Other than a terrible paint job it doesn't look that bad. You definitely need a new snout greeblie and decals. The one there looks like the one that came with my MLC. It's not very accurate and I just threw it in a box somewhere. Like Jim said, just sand it all down, redo the primer and paint it with a nice gloss white. When you're done you'll have a great helmet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southscout Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 You can try using acetone to clean it up and get the paint off. It shouldn't affect it if it's fiber glass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jyjellyfish77 Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 I agree with changing out the snout piece for sure. Is there a riser on the snout? I'd also confirm that it's an MLC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Axelay Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 Well, I'm on my way. I contacted lonewolf and have purchased the snout and riser, lens, decals, and a chin cup. I'll try to upload some photos of the whole helmet today. Pardon my ignorance, but what's MLC...? Now, um... I just need to learn how to carefully and properly remove this paint and then repaint it. I don't suppose someone could point me in the direction of a step-by-step guide, if such a thing exists? From what I'm understanding so far, I need to strip the existing paint, finely and evenly sand down in any rough patches (of which there aren't many, thankfully), apply primer, and then apply paint. I'm assuming that I should go with an airbrush for a better finish. It would make good sense to go ahead and paint the inside black, right? Also, another important question. How far open should the faceplate be able to move? The previous owner had just used plain ol' bolts to attach the two pieces, and it didn't seem to open properly. I removed the bolts and am trying to figure out whether or not this faceplate is even capable of opening at close to a 90-degree angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Axelay Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 Just so y'all know, I'm a combination of two very bad things: I'm terrified of screwing this up, and I'm a notorious perfectionist. I'd be all too happy to commission someone to help me with this... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffin-X Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 MLC is a very good helmet, you did well. The white finish on the helmet looks like the default MLC white. If so, you could try to gently remove the marks and bad surface paint using Goo-Gone. This is a citrus based cleaner that can easily remove the black marks and other paint without removing the white coat. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Goo-Gone-Pro-Power-Pump-Spray/17300573 If not, you can remove all of the paint using a different citrus based stripper called "Back to nature". It works pretty well and can easily remove ALL of the paint in a about an hour. If you go this route, you'll need to spray it on, let it set, then rinse it off with water. You can repeat as needed to get the paint off, then you'll need to sand and re-finish. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Back-to-Nature-Hi-Speed-Ready-Strip-32-Ounce-Citrus-Paint-and-Varnish-Remover-Spray/17292210 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Axelay Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 Ah! Great advice! Thank you! I am quite familiar with Goo Gone, but it never crossed my mind to try something like that on this helmet. I'll give it a shot and see what happens. I am still leaning towards needing a repaint since some of the edges show a bit of browning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southscout Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 For the opening, there's no requirement that it has to be able to fully open. I can't open mine more than a couple of inches. But I never open it anyway. And if you're a real perfectionist, check your neighborhood for a car painter to get a good paint job. Might cost you a few bucks though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth Voorhees Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 i think you can do it bud, BUT if your really unsure of yourself, i would gladly do it for ya for just the cost of materials and shipping Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Axelay Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 i think you can do it bud, BUT if your really unsure of yourself, i would gladly do it for ya for just the cost of materials and shipping Oh wow, I would greatly appreciate this! I will send you a PM. My painting skills are sorely amateur at best. The good news is that with a few hours of work, I've managed to remove all of the hot glue residue, poorly placed decals, the sloppy snout greeblies, and most other signs of wear and have gotten this helmet about as clean as it can be. It just needs a new fresh coat of white since it's still showing some browning on a few surfaces and edges. I've realized that what I originally thought was dirt on the faceplate is actually not. It's more like black paint particles from a spray can. No idea why that would be there. You'd never notice it from a distance... but up close you can't miss it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffin-X Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 I'm sure the previous seller was going for the Bike Scout "weathered" look...using black spray paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRookie Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 I'm sure the previous seller was going for the Bike Scout "weathered" look...using black spray paint. That still doesn't explain what on Earth happened to that nose piece. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffin-X Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 That still doesn't explain what on Earth happened to that nose piece. Ya...some people should just not paint, at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Axelay Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 I really don't think that he was going for a weathered look. I think it was just not such good painting... which is percisely what worries me about trying to do it myself! LOL. By the way, Griffin-X, the Goo Gone suggestion was brilliant. I can't believe how much junk I was able to get off of the helmet. I also did a good and thorough cleaning on the chest armor and especially the back tank, and they look MUCH better now. I wish I had taken "before" pictures of it - y'all would not have believed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRookie Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 I really don't think that he was going for a weathered look. I think it was just not such good painting... which is percisely what worries me about trying to do it myself! LOL. Just use lonewolfs technique with the 3mm painters tape (in one piece) and use spray paint for an even coat... the one you got looked hand painted... more likely they dipped it in the paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Axelay Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Oh, what a different a pro makes! It's almost unreal. I got my repainted/refinished helmet back from DarthVorhees a few days ago, and this is my first test shot after installing a temporary visor and the chinstrap. It is SO MUCH BETTER than its previous condition. I cannot thank DarthVorhees enough for his generous offer to assist me with this. Some people just flat out know what they are doing with this kind of crafting. (I am not one of those people. Not yet, anyway.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest hel0wrench Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Wow, so much better than the first set of pics! I like the idea of using Goo-Gone for stripping. I know there's not many solvents that will hurt fiberglass. Are there any that would work on ABS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffin-X Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Yep, a proper MLC3 helmet now. Lou did a stellar job on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth Voorhees Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Glad ya like it man, and was happy to help...i know what its like to get something thats not quite what you were expecting...really sucks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.