Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

A few of you have prompted me to post a short tutorial of how I add grooves to my boots, and I finally got around to getting some pics of my own.

 

Like the other thread, I started with a pair of Rugged Outback 'Cheyenne' work boots from Payless Shoe Source. These run about $35 a pair.

IMAG0655_zpsd999d87d.jpg

 

Although it's not necessary, I used a pair of pliers to pop off the metal 'WATERPROOF' tags.

IMAG0656_zps0ac14a9c.jpg

 

It actually makes a cool "pop-pop" sound when it comes off!

IMAG0658_zps07ae0875.jpg

 

From past experience, I use 3/8" elastic instead of laces. If you decide to do the same, take an afternoon, walking around in your elastic-laced boots, making adjustments where necessary. You need to make them loose enough to slip on, but snug enough to troop in. Again, I'd done this with all my past Scout boots, and it makes getting suited up much easier!

 

Here you can see the elastic-laced boots, along with the tools I use:

  • X-Acto #2 medium weight aluminum knife with #2 large fine point blade
  • X-Acto #1 light weight aluminum knife with #17 lightweight chiseling blade
  • 1/4" quilters' tape
  • marking pen
  • spare X-Acto blades

IMAG0659_zps97838ac3.jpg

 

Using the quilters' tape, I mark the 'center rib' around the back heel of the boot.

IMAG0660_zps5dfff2d1.jpg

 

Next, use a straight-edge to mark the grooves. IMPORTANT: Make sure the groove lines are 90 degrees perpendicular to the center rib!

IMAG0661_zps64316422.jpg

 

With the medium weight knife, make 1/8" incisions on the three sides of the groove.

IMAG0662_zps413747e6.jpg

 

Use the smaller chisel blade to 'scoop' the tooth out the groove.

 

IMAG0664_zps84425a89.jpg

 

Remember:

Be careful - these blade are SHARP!

Take your time - don't rush it! (this process takes me about 2 hours per boot.)

Change blades often. The sharper the blade, the easier the cut!

 

IMAG0665_zpsc706d7ec.jpg

 

 

As you can see, not all of the incisions will be perfect. Which is okay; if anyone ever gets this close to my boots to make a negative critique, I'll be kicking their little Ewok teeth in. :)

IMAG0666_zps9af5de2b.jpg

 

Please let me know if you have any questions, and see this thread for the rest of the tutorial:

http://forum.bikersc...showtopic=10610

Posted

Here's a shot of the back of the boot, from the other thread. Notice that the top incision is slightly angled inward as it goes down, leaving the top ribbed section intact.

65177_10200089258700066_1532029790_n_zpseb02cc58.jpg

Posted

And just because I love this picture so much, here's what the sole looks like after having been spray-painted with Krylon Fusion Satin Khaki. :)

 

IMAG0550_zps236deef5.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...
Guest hel0wrench
Posted

What are your measurements for the grid? It looks like the widths between grooves changes on the front and back where it starts to wrap around the foot.

Posted

I didn't make any special measurements, but you're correct - the widths are not consistent. I simply based the groove width on the width of the existing notch of the boot.

Guest hel0wrench
Posted

I noticed that after I asked the question. I'm going to start my pattern later this week and hopefully have some pics to put up of my build. Thanks for the tutorial!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...