batninja Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 A few of you have prompted me to post a short tutorial of how I add grooves to my boots, and I finally got around to getting some pics of my own. Like the other thread, I started with a pair of Rugged Outback 'Cheyenne' work boots from Payless Shoe Source. These run about $35 a pair. Although it's not necessary, I used a pair of pliers to pop off the metal 'WATERPROOF' tags. It actually makes a cool "pop-pop" sound when it comes off! From past experience, I use 3/8" elastic instead of laces. If you decide to do the same, take an afternoon, walking around in your elastic-laced boots, making adjustments where necessary. You need to make them loose enough to slip on, but snug enough to troop in. Again, I'd done this with all my past Scout boots, and it makes getting suited up much easier! Here you can see the elastic-laced boots, along with the tools I use: X-Acto #2 medium weight aluminum knife with #2 large fine point blade X-Acto #1 light weight aluminum knife with #17 lightweight chiseling blade 1/4" quilters' tape marking pen spare X-Acto blades Using the quilters' tape, I mark the 'center rib' around the back heel of the boot. Next, use a straight-edge to mark the grooves. IMPORTANT: Make sure the groove lines are 90 degrees perpendicular to the center rib! With the medium weight knife, make 1/8" incisions on the three sides of the groove. Use the smaller chisel blade to 'scoop' the tooth out the groove. Remember: Be careful - these blade are SHARP! Take your time - don't rush it! (this process takes me about 2 hours per boot.) Change blades often. The sharper the blade, the easier the cut! As you can see, not all of the incisions will be perfect. Which is okay; if anyone ever gets this close to my boots to make a negative critique, I'll be kicking their little Ewok teeth in. Please let me know if you have any questions, and see this thread for the rest of the tutorial: http://forum.bikersc...showtopic=10610 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batninja Posted July 13, 2013 Author Share Posted July 13, 2013 Here's a shot of the back of the boot, from the other thread. Notice that the top incision is slightly angled inward as it goes down, leaving the top ribbed section intact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batninja Posted July 13, 2013 Author Share Posted July 13, 2013 And just because I love this picture so much, here's what the sole looks like after having been spray-painted with Krylon Fusion Satin Khaki. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riddeth Posted July 14, 2013 Share Posted July 14, 2013 thanks for sharing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest hel0wrench Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 What are your measurements for the grid? It looks like the widths between grooves changes on the front and back where it starts to wrap around the foot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batninja Posted August 4, 2013 Author Share Posted August 4, 2013 I didn't make any special measurements, but you're correct - the widths are not consistent. I simply based the groove width on the width of the existing notch of the boot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest hel0wrench Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 I noticed that after I asked the question. I'm going to start my pattern later this week and hopefully have some pics to put up of my build. Thanks for the tutorial! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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