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Chris L's Armor


Chris L

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I've been working on my armor for some time now, and at long last I believe I'm done, or at least close to it. Let me know what you think, I want to know if this can be 501st approved.

 

Scout1_zps9491aea8.jpeg

Scout2_zpsa06ab568.jpeg

Scout3_zps07d0ee6b.jpeg

 

 

Scout4_zpsd4839c94.jpeg

 

Tell me what you think.

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Where's your belt Christopher? :unsure: Oh...there it is. (sorry, had a hard time seeing through the grainy pic) You need to pull that puppy way down until it covers the bottom edge of your cummerbund. Then you need to pull those drop boxes waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay up. I'd also make the pouches a little less padded.

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Where's your belt Christopher? :unsure: Oh...there it is. (sorry, had a hard time seeing through the grainy pic) You need to pull that puppy way down until it covers the bottom edge of your cummerbund. Then you need to pull those drop boxes waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay up. I'd also make the pouches a little less padded.

Wow, I've been wearing it wrong all this time. Amazing the details I can overlook. I'll take that into account

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Just like Barry said - the belt down, the boxes up and less patting in the pouches + you need to turn your bicep armors a bit = the greeblins should point more forward.

 

Your thermal detonator is also the wrong way around - try take a look at the CRL : http://www.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TB_Scout_trooper

 

But other than that, it looks really nice ;)

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Your thermal detonator is also the wrong way around - try take a look at the CRL : http://www.501st.com...B_Scout_trooper

So that was a mirrored image I based it off of. From the look of it, that means I glued the larger thermal detonator greeblie on upside-down (as in, the rectangles are currently pointed up). :6:

 

Is that possible to remove it without damaging either the greeblie or thermal detonator, or does this mean I need to purchase replacements?

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What kind of glue did you use? I've had success removing E6000 & Gorilla Glue with a brand new exacto knife. Making gentle cuts then lift, repeating til it seperated.

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The rivet on your tank top is outside the topper. It has to go into the hole in the top greeb, not sit outside.

I've noticed that. I don't know if the the armor has changed since I bought it (purchased it from SC about four years ago), but I believe the instructions actually called for two rivets: one to hold the tank to the backplate (it didn't extend far enough for one rivet to go through both the greeblie and back plate) and one to hold the greeblie to the tank, and I ended up just using the one and gluing the topper. Would it be sufficient to attach a rivet going through the greeblie hole?

 

 

 

What kind of glue did you use? I've had success removing E6000 & Gorilla Glue with a brand new exacto knife. Making gentle cuts then lift, repeating til it seperated.

Unfortunately, it's a pretty strong plastic epoxy, I've had no luck cutting with a knife.

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I've noticed that. I don't know if the the armor has changed since I bought it (purchased it from SC about four years ago), but I believe the instructions actually called for two rivets: one to hold the tank to the backplate (it didn't extend far enough for one rivet to go through both the greeblie and back plate) and one to hold the greeblie to the tank, and I ended up just using the one and gluing the topper. Would it be sufficient to attach a rivet going through the greeblie hole?

 

No idea, but maybe check with your GML as well. One idea would be to paint the one you have white and then add an already "popped" rivet in the hole on the tank so it looks proper.

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