Donovan Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Hey had two quick questions, would steel toe boots be useable for my base boot?and approximately how many yards of fabric will I need for my boots?(and cummerbund) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chunk Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 My boots are steel toe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4505Marcel Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Steel toe caps are very hard to work with as you cant stick the pins in, so I would say do not buy steel unless you 100% cant buy the right size in non steel buddy. You will want approx a meter of marine vynil, I believe mine is around 145cm wide off the roll Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southscout Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 and approximately how many yards of fabric will I need for my boots?(and cummerbund) For the bund you want (approximately) your girdth + an inch or two times height x 2 + an inch or two. The batting would be the same size, but not 2 times as high. When I did mine I cut out the batting so it would fit inside the bund, and lie below the seams so it get fastened. You don't have to do the in- and outside of the fabric in separate pieces, you can just fold it along one edge. Add a seam line in the fold however to hold the batting. I might have some pictures from when I did mine, so just holler in case you need some. And while you're at it, plan for the cod piece insert mod. so much nicer and more accurate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NegativeEleven Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 I say steel toe is gonna be easier because it'll keep it's shape while you heat and stretch the vinyl. Some threads suggest packing socks into the boots when stretching the vinyl, but to me, that seems like it leaves you with a pretty good chance of having boots that are too tight. I'm not a great source of info, since Silverboyd made my boots (started with steel toe). I had to do a little stretching and adjusting of the dog-bone part once I got em, and I was glad to know that the toe wasn't gonna chance shape. I'd definitely get the steel toe again if I was doing it myself. You can stick the pins into the sole, just where it meets the toe, because the trim will cover any holes you leave. Silverboyd documented the build here: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=10374 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4505Marcel Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 You cant stick pins right into steel toe caps as you cant push through the steel with pins to hold the vynil while its being stretched so how can it be easier dude? With non steel you can push the pins right in to get a good hold, steel toe caps are also to big and rounded in the toe section compared to the real deal boots, hence why most use normal boots as the toe is a shade less tall and round. Ive only used steeel maybe 2 or 3 times and that was only because I couldnt get the size in normal. I stuff every boot with news paper before I start so no chance of any distortion. Trust me steel is NOT as easy as standard boots, but the choice is yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NegativeEleven Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Ok, like I said, I didn't do mine, but it looked easy enough in the pictures Silverboyd posted. He put the pins into the sole, right under the toe. I guess I need to heat and get those little dimples out of the sole (a little heat should do it) before I submit to 501st. Also, after some weathering, I don't think it'll be noticeable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4505Marcel Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 If you take a look at that link you posted, if you look between the upright and toe on the top, there is a massive loose piece where the fabric wasnt stretched properly over the lace section. Pinning into the sole isnt very good for the first section, you want to get the pins in the crease between the suded/leather and where the sole sticks on, that way everything will go in tight. When you did yours they probably should have been heated and stretched a few times more to get it sitting flat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NegativeEleven Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 yeah, I re-stretched and re-glued the dogbone and the bottom/back since those pictures were taken. I'll redo the trim on the toe after this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4505Marcel Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 I dont mean the trim but the whole toe section covering needed to be tighter mate, you can see a loose section where the stitches are underneith down to the toe almost. Its no big deal they should pass basic clearance unless your GML is uber picky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffin-X Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 I can safely say Marcel is an "expert" in boot making. He's got it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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