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BatNinja's Boot Project 2013


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After taking a break from costuming for a few months, I'm taking another crack at the scout trooper boots. In this case, I'm doing this pair for my buddy Wesclone in Germany.

 

Again, I started with a pair of Rugged Outback 'Cheyenne' work boots from Payless Shoe Source. The pair pictured first is actually my size 12 Ewok-stompers, but all the other pics are of Wes' size 9.

 

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After masking and marking the cut lines, I used an X-Acto knife with a thin chisel blade (#17) to cut the area. As opposed to my previous attempt, I made shallow cuts, which closer match the original boot.

 

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Then came the fun part! I had dreaded this step in the past, because I used 'natural' heat, leaving the boots on the dash of the car in the summertime, and sweating like a pig for a few minutes at a time to stretch the vinyl over the boot.

 

THIS time, I used a heat gun, and was done in a matter of minutes. A couple of lessons I learned from past attempts: insert socks into the boot before forming the vinyl. Without them, the vinyl will actually 'collapse' the boot toe if you stretch it too tight. Using socks, the form stays rigid. Also (and this is from experience), I used elastic instead of laces. It makes it SO much easier to get suited up, and still tight enough to make the boots feel comfortable. I had Wes test-fit these before he was deployed overseas.

 

IMAG05361_zpsa205ce62.jpg

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I carefully removed the push pins, and used an X-Acto blade to cut along the dotted lines left by the pins. Using Shoe Goo, I slathered the boot, smoothed it with my finger, then placed the vinyl.

 

To eliminate 'bunching' along the toe, I used masking tape to help form the edge.

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It is important to keep checking the vinyl over the next hour or so to make sure it's forming correctly and not shifting with the glue. Keep an eye on it, and make adjustments if necessary.

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After the glue dries (I left it overnight), it was time for the 1/2" edging strips. To accomplish this, I taped two X-Acto knives together, with the blades parallel, and pulled the vinyl through the double blades. Due to the diameter of the X-Acto knife handles, the result is a near perfect 1/2" strip!

 

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Here's a shot of the boot with the strip added.

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Again, monitor the strips for about an hour, as the glue might cause the strips to shift.

 

More to follow...

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Well done as always Eric. I always enjoy your WIPs/tutorails. :)

 

Quick question though. Did you basically use elastic in place of shoestrings for the entire length, or just the bottom portion of the shoe? Just curious.

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Alright, let's wrap this project up!

 

Prior to painting the soles, I worked on the pattern for the shaft. Wes is a little shorter than me (let's face it, he's just a bit taller than a hobbit! - just kidding, Wes!), so I modified my existing boot shaft pattern, by taking an inch off the top. I made another modification to the pattern that allows for the slight downward curve from the back of the boot around the heel, see here:

 

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On to the painting!

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I masked and painted the sole with Krylon Fusion Satin Khaki. After it dried, i finished it off with a misting of Krylon Matte Finish, to take the shine off.

 

And here is the finished project!

 

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The shaft and dog bone are not glued on yet. Final construction will be completed by Wes.

 

Thoughts and comments are welcome!

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  • 1 month later...

jyjellyfish77, I've never used rivets on any of the boots I've made. I know the tutorial suggests this, but I've never had an issue with simply using Shoe Goo.

 

Mr.Bojangles, I hadn't thought about it. But, I do have to start carving my own boots here in a few days, so I'll try to snap a bunch of progress pics!

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