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scratchbuilding the helmet


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it's a really ambitious project, but I want to try :):dance:

 

here's a blueprint I have done today on millimeter paper.... measures are based on reference pictures . if someone can give me hints and accurate measures of the original bucket ( or at least more accurate measures) please tell me!

 

 

 

Scan_zps2fd36a18.jpeg

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It'd be nice to take a crack at a really good 3d file or blueprints, as it'd in general be nice to see some more biker helmet variants float around so we are not limited to small and pretty, or large and ugly (ks).

 

I've had some good success in grinding out a TK on the ShopBot I have access to:

http://wake.drmcawesome.com/sw/tk/tk06.jpg

(needs finishing)

 

But really, I've been hangry for super accurate blueprints to make a good TB helmet that fits my big head but doesn't look like trash.

 

Keep up the good work!!

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It'd be nice to take a crack at a really good 3d file or blueprints, as it'd in general be nice to see some more biker helmet variants float around so we are not limited to small and pretty, or large and ugly (ks).

 

I've had some good success in grinding out a TK on the ShopBot I have access to:

http://wake.drmcawes.../sw/tk/tk06.jpg

(needs finishing)

 

But really, I've been hangry for super accurate blueprints to make a good TB helmet that fits my big head but doesn't look like trash.

 

Keep up the good work!!

 

hey it looks great! what's a shopbot?

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  • 1 month later...

I have been patiently working on this project almost every evening and I want to share with you some pics of the process so far....

I think general shapes are ok.... I still need to refine details ( the vent for example)

 

I'll try to be as accurate as possible with the tools I have (not many really )

 

I have also an important question: how the two half pieces of the helmet are sealed together? what should i do on the molds to make this work??

 

P1030730_zps93637294.jpgP1030733_zps4fe5826c.jpg

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Wow!! Awesome! And a lot of work im thinking, even with the newfangled cnc contraption. Your bucks look like they are really coming along..... You need a r half though hehehe

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hi everybody!

 

I have just started carving the details on the back of the right half. it takes a really long time to do it!! 6 more to go . first one is a little bit wider ( as seen on the reference pictures )

P1030744_zpsec576180.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

today was vacuumforming time ( finally!!!! ) :dance:

 

I'm so happy cause the mold worked perfectly and it was so easy to remove. and as far as i can see it looks pretty smooth and details pulled fine.

now it's time to trim and see :

 

- if helmet fits me ( most important point )

- if the two halves actually line together

 

here's the pictures :

 

 

P1030825_zpsab1dfa81.jpg

P1030824_zpscf38082c.jpg

 

P1030822_zps947c506d.jpg

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P1030849_zpsfa821cc8.jpgI'm trying to glue the two parts together. they don't actually match 100% so it's not easy. as you can see there's also a gap. I guess I'll need to use a refiller, and then repaint. what kind of refiller and paint should I use?? hope someone helps me on this! :D
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Don't worry about the gap too much there Daniel.

 

Try to get the halves to match up in shape as best you can. Don't panic if they're not too good at this stage.

 

When it's as good as it is going to get, tape them together as you have done, and then glue in strips of plastic into the underside. to secure it together.

For the curves, I heat up a strip with the heat gun and get it floppy, then when it's ready to go, press it into the curve (wear gloves unless you've got asbestos fire proof fingers...).

Again, glue these in place.

 

You'll then need to fill the gap.

 

Chamfer the edges of the gap outwards, to give your filler something to bite to.

 

Then fill the gap with a decent automotive body filler, which ever is available in your country. Fill, sand, fill, sand until this is smooth.

 

I have recently had a nightmare with the ABS paste method, where when exposed to direct sunlight / heat the paste softened and blistered, destroying the integrity of that part. So I no longer advise using this method.

 

 

When filling the area, don't just pay attention to the gap, but treat the whole flat surface as the bit to fill and get level. Otherwise you'll end up with ridges in the final product, which will look rubbish.

 

That should be enough to keep you going for a bit.

 

Hit me up on FaceBook.... I'll pm you the details. I've got stacks of pictures in there.

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Don't worry about the gap too much there Daniel.

 

Try to get the halves to match up in shape as best you can. Don't panic if they're not too good at this stage.

 

When it's as good as it is going to get, tape them together as you have done, and then glue in strips of plastic into the underside. to secure it together.

For the curves, I heat up a strip with the heat gun and get it floppy, then when it's ready to go, press it into the curve (wear gloves unless you've got asbestos fire proof fingers...).

Again, glue these in place.

 

You'll then need to fill the gap.

 

Chamfer the edges of the gap outwards, to give your filler something to bite to.

 

Then fill the gap with a decent automotive body filler, which ever is available in your country. Fill, sand, fill, sand until this is smooth.

 

I have recently had a nightmare with the ABS paste method, where when exposed to direct sunlight / heat the paste softened and blistered, destroying the integrity of that part. So I no longer advise using this method.

 

 

When filling the area, don't just pay attention to the gap, but treat the whole flat surface as the bit to fill and get level. Otherwise you'll end up with ridges in the final product, which will look rubbish.

 

That should be enough to keep you going for a bit.

 

Hit me up on FaceBook.... I'll pm you the details. I've got stacks of pictures in there.

 

thank you!! :duim:

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