locust star Posted February 28, 2013 Posted February 28, 2013 it's a really ambitious project, but I want to try here's a blueprint I have done today on millimeter paper.... measures are based on reference pictures . if someone can give me hints and accurate measures of the original bucket ( or at least more accurate measures) please tell me!
bwattsup Posted February 28, 2013 Posted February 28, 2013 Best of luck on this Daniel. Super ambitious of you. I'd like to think one day i'll give this a whirl too.
miqt Posted February 28, 2013 Posted February 28, 2013 The reference helmet in the gallery is a sceen used helmet isnt it? Cant go wrong with those measurements! Good luck!
locust star Posted February 28, 2013 Author Posted February 28, 2013 The reference helmet in the gallery is a sceen used helmet isnt it? Cant go wrong with those measurements! Good luck! those pictures will be very helpful!
Katsu Posted March 4, 2013 Posted March 4, 2013 It'd be nice to take a crack at a really good 3d file or blueprints, as it'd in general be nice to see some more biker helmet variants float around so we are not limited to small and pretty, or large and ugly (ks). I've had some good success in grinding out a TK on the ShopBot I have access to: http://wake.drmcawesome.com/sw/tk/tk06.jpg (needs finishing) But really, I've been hangry for super accurate blueprints to make a good TB helmet that fits my big head but doesn't look like trash. Keep up the good work!!
locust star Posted March 4, 2013 Author Posted March 4, 2013 It'd be nice to take a crack at a really good 3d file or blueprints, as it'd in general be nice to see some more biker helmet variants float around so we are not limited to small and pretty, or large and ugly (ks). I've had some good success in grinding out a TK on the ShopBot I have access to: http://wake.drmcawes.../sw/tk/tk06.jpg (needs finishing) But really, I've been hangry for super accurate blueprints to make a good TB helmet that fits my big head but doesn't look like trash. Keep up the good work!! hey it looks great! what's a shopbot?
Katsu Posted March 5, 2013 Posted March 5, 2013 It's a 3-axis (north/south, east/west, up/down) CNC router. Take a 3d file, slice it and prepare it in the program cut3d, and then run the machine: http://3.design-milk.com/images/2012/06/shopbot-PRSAlpha-24.jpg They're a lot of fun, except when you break the cutting bits.
locust star Posted March 7, 2013 Author Posted March 7, 2013 here's some pictures of my work in progress...
locust star Posted April 25, 2013 Author Posted April 25, 2013 I have been patiently working on this project almost every evening and I want to share with you some pics of the process so far.... I think general shapes are ok.... I still need to refine details ( the vent for example) I'll try to be as accurate as possible with the tools I have (not many really ) I have also an important question: how the two half pieces of the helmet are sealed together? what should i do on the molds to make this work??
miqt Posted April 25, 2013 Posted April 25, 2013 Wow!! Awesome! And a lot of work im thinking, even with the newfangled cnc contraption. Your bucks look like they are really coming along..... You need a r half though hehehe
locust star Posted April 29, 2013 Author Posted April 29, 2013 yeah a lot of work and a lot of fun! thanks Mike and Christian! I have modelled the vent in the meantime and ordered some modellism tools that could turn useful ( hopefully) . more updates soon!
locust star Posted May 2, 2013 Author Posted May 2, 2013 my new " toys" have just arrived! a proxxon pensander and 10mm/20mm fingersanders!
locust star Posted May 3, 2013 Author Posted May 3, 2013 I'm really liking your topic and posts! Keep it up! i'm glad you like it Jim! I will certainly keep it up
locust star Posted May 8, 2013 Author Posted May 8, 2013 hi everybody! I have just started carving the details on the back of the right half. it takes a really long time to do it!! 6 more to go . first one is a little bit wider ( as seen on the reference pictures )
locust star Posted May 19, 2013 Author Posted May 19, 2013 here are some pictures of what I have so far. main features are complete.. now I have to work on details, glue pieces together etc. 1
StudioCreations Posted May 23, 2013 Posted May 23, 2013 I like your idea of removable ear parts. You can get a deep draw into those areas, and still get the plastic off the mold. Can't wait to see the first pulls!!!
locust star Posted June 20, 2013 Author Posted June 20, 2013 today was vacuumforming time ( finally!!!! ) I'm so happy cause the mold worked perfectly and it was so easy to remove. and as far as i can see it looks pretty smooth and details pulled fine. now it's time to trim and see : - if helmet fits me ( most important point ) - if the two halves actually line together here's the pictures : 1
locust star Posted June 22, 2013 Author Posted June 22, 2013 any tips - tutorial on how to seal the two halves together? I need help on this...
locust star Posted June 28, 2013 Author Posted June 28, 2013 I'm trying to glue the two parts together. they don't actually match 100% so it's not easy. as you can see there's also a gap. I guess I'll need to use a refiller, and then repaint. what kind of refiller and paint should I use?? hope someone helps me on this!
Chef Posted June 30, 2013 Posted June 30, 2013 Don't worry about the gap too much there Daniel. Try to get the halves to match up in shape as best you can. Don't panic if they're not too good at this stage. When it's as good as it is going to get, tape them together as you have done, and then glue in strips of plastic into the underside. to secure it together. For the curves, I heat up a strip with the heat gun and get it floppy, then when it's ready to go, press it into the curve (wear gloves unless you've got asbestos fire proof fingers...). Again, glue these in place. You'll then need to fill the gap. Chamfer the edges of the gap outwards, to give your filler something to bite to. Then fill the gap with a decent automotive body filler, which ever is available in your country. Fill, sand, fill, sand until this is smooth. I have recently had a nightmare with the ABS paste method, where when exposed to direct sunlight / heat the paste softened and blistered, destroying the integrity of that part. So I no longer advise using this method. When filling the area, don't just pay attention to the gap, but treat the whole flat surface as the bit to fill and get level. Otherwise you'll end up with ridges in the final product, which will look rubbish. That should be enough to keep you going for a bit. Hit me up on FaceBook.... I'll pm you the details. I've got stacks of pictures in there.
locust star Posted July 1, 2013 Author Posted July 1, 2013 Don't worry about the gap too much there Daniel. Try to get the halves to match up in shape as best you can. Don't panic if they're not too good at this stage. When it's as good as it is going to get, tape them together as you have done, and then glue in strips of plastic into the underside. to secure it together. For the curves, I heat up a strip with the heat gun and get it floppy, then when it's ready to go, press it into the curve (wear gloves unless you've got asbestos fire proof fingers...). Again, glue these in place. You'll then need to fill the gap. Chamfer the edges of the gap outwards, to give your filler something to bite to. Then fill the gap with a decent automotive body filler, which ever is available in your country. Fill, sand, fill, sand until this is smooth. I have recently had a nightmare with the ABS paste method, where when exposed to direct sunlight / heat the paste softened and blistered, destroying the integrity of that part. So I no longer advise using this method. When filling the area, don't just pay attention to the gap, but treat the whole flat surface as the bit to fill and get level. Otherwise you'll end up with ridges in the final product, which will look rubbish. That should be enough to keep you going for a bit. Hit me up on FaceBook.... I'll pm you the details. I've got stacks of pictures in there. thank you!!
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now