5xxicemanxx5 on ebay?

[NegativeEleven]

I haven't been taking pictures of progress like I should. I rebuilt the scope mount area to fit the accurate scope rings I bought. I sanded off most of the details that shouldn't be there. I attached the accurate transistor with round head slotted screws. I spent 2 hours building up a box and filling with clay around the halfway mark of scope and gun. Then I realized I didn't even have enough silicone for one side of the mold. I've ordered more silicone, resin, and black tint.

 

I'll be making 3 for our local scouts. If anyone else wants one, I'll see how the mold holds up. I'll do em cheap because I'm not great at this yet, and obviously there's a lot of better options on here for a blaster.

[NegativeEleven]

I pulled 2 today. I'm kinda mad at the bubbles. I thought I'd angled it correctly and had enough pour spouts/channels to get those out, but I guess I was wrong. The bottom half of each part (the outside when they're put together) looks great. The other side has big gaps where air pockets formed. I think punching some pinholes in the mold for air to escape is gonna cure that. Chopping off a few stems from resin filling those holes seems easier than filling in these big gaps. I'll try to put some pictures online later tonight. I'd love some advice. I've spent too much already on my casting and mold making education, so I hope to get something useable out of this gallon of resin.

[NegativeEleven]

Here's the first 2. I'd appreciate any tips you guys have for not having these bubbles show up. This is my first big 2-part mold, so I don't really know what I'm doing. I did make a 2-part mold of a lightsaber, but I sort of slush/roto cast that, pouring in the blade emitter part and rotating till the sides look thick enough.

 

I should have taken pictures before sanding and trimming. I had to completely lose the barrel on one because the mold had come apart a little and added thickness and bubbles to the hexagon and tip. The pour hole is that sanded part on the body of the cleaner one. I have a hole at the highest point on the hexagon barrel part, too because that seemed like a place air would get trapped. I didn't think the main body and the handle would give me trouble. The one that's worse is the 2nd one I did. I tried tilting the mold and squeezing out bubbles as I poured. That just made the resin slush up to the top and form bubbles with a film over them. I am thinking a few more really tiny holes to let air get out would probably fix this.

 

http://www.negativee.../casts01_lg.jpg (larger pic)

 

http://www.negativee.../casts02_lg.jpg (larger pic)

 

As for repairing these, you can see I've got some black sintra there. I'm gonna try to fill in the spots with that and some bondo. Again, I'm glad I made the mold the way I did (I knew the flatter side would be better on top) because most of these bad spots are hidden by the scope. I think I'm gonna end up cutting off the hand guard on all of them and replacing that with metal or sintra because the urethane resin is too flexible.

[Darth Voorhees]

Where are your pour spouts? I would make the mold so your pouring into the back end of the blaster through the ribbed cylinder. I would put a vent hole also on the backside of the handle. I wouldnt try to mold the triggerguard into the blaster. Id make that a seperate piece out of either metal or maybe even plastic.

 

Pour the resin slowly while kind of slushing it around to get everything coated pretty good until you start reaching full capacity. once its full tap the mold on the table..that helps release smaller bubbles as well. That should solve the problem.

[NegativeEleven]

Main pour spout is that sanded spot on the cleaner blaster. I had another at the raised square closer to the front, but it slipped while the silicone was curing. There's a vent hole at the highest point on the barrel hexagon. I'm gonna add one on the handle too, I think. Slushing it around seems to have made things worse. That's what I did on the second one, and I ended up with those resin bubbles, where there's a gap, but a thin layer of resin over it. The 2 kinds of resin I have here cure in 7 minutes and 15 minutes. So, pouring any slower isn't really an option. Tapping it on the table could work. I tried squeezing it a little to push air out, but I think the mold is too thick over the blaster. Squeezing worked on the scope.