NegativeEleven Posted December 16, 2012 Share Posted December 16, 2012 Has anyone taken apart a Hasbro Rebel blaster? I've got two here, and was thinking about making a mold of the scope, since it's the same as the Scout Blaster. The whole gun's split down the middle and held together with screws, except for the tip of the barrel, the spring for firing nerf darts on the back, and both ends of the scope. Are these just glued in? Will they pop out with some prying or is there a better way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sorripto Posted December 17, 2012 Share Posted December 17, 2012 You have to be careful when disassembling any hasbro gun. They have been in the toy business for many years and have gotten very good at making toys that are not meant to be taken apart. It can be done, but the screws joints have a chance of breaking because often the screw is held in tighter then the plastic is held together. What it is is there is a plastic tube that is threaded and it is glued to one side the screw is inserted into that. It is doable just dont rush it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NegativeEleven Posted December 17, 2012 Author Share Posted December 17, 2012 The clone trooper rifle pops apart with just removing screws, but with Rebel Blaster and Boba Fett rifle, there's glued parts on the ends. The barrel tip, back ring (with pull to launch nerf darts), and both ends of the scope are single pieces glued in to the left/right body of the rest of the gun. I ended up heating it a little with a heat gun and just trying to make precise cuts with an exacto knife. It's kind of a mess right now, but I think once I cut out the front "clamp" and replace that part of the scope (1/2" PVC maybe?) I'll have a moldable part. I have a 2nd one that I haven't taken apart. I guess I could just mold one side of that, and then carve away at the resin piece that comes out... silicone's kinda pricey though, so I don't wanna have to make intermediate molds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NegativeEleven Posted December 23, 2012 Author Share Posted December 23, 2012 3rd and 4th molds here (for both halves) and extra adjustment knobs. I ended up molding the one that's still intact. Then with the first pull from that mold, I whittled down all the parts I didn't need (the brackets and adjustment knobs) with Dremel then sanding by hand. I used that piece to make these 2 molds, and made molds for the adjustment knob, knowing that I'll have to flip it over and then add the 2 knobs (one to the top and one on a side covering that extra circle). I think it'll work out. I'll try casting again after Xmas. You can see that one is a much darker color than the other. I had someone helping me at first, and that's how I learned that if you mix much more of "part B" in your silicone, you don't need a thickening agent and it will cure much faster. I had gloves on and was making a huge mess, so I didn't check my friend's math. I know now that we mixed 20:100 instead of 5:100 because I said "what's one twentieth of this?" and my friend heard "what's 20% of this?" Glad to know it's not a total waste, but that explains the roughness and bubbles in the darker one. Learning as I go! I'm not making these to sell or to say that anyone here doesn't do a good job. I want to make that clear. I just had a couple of Rebel Blasters here and I've always wanted to learn to make silicone molds. So when I got my first shipment of silicone, this was what I decided would be my learning project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffin-X Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Looks like it turned out pretty well. Nice work Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NegativeEleven Posted December 24, 2012 Author Share Posted December 24, 2012 Can you buy Part B of the silicone mold from Smooth-on separately? I can't find it on their site. If I keep "cheating" to get thicker silicone that cures faster, I'm gonna run out of Part B real quick. I think I'll spend the extra money and get the 1:1 mix next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chef Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 If you want it to thicken up quicker, you should be able to find a thixotropic agent for the silicone. That thickens it up nice. Here is a link to the stuff I used for mine. Obviously you'll need to find something similar on your side of the pond. http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/CFS_Catalogue__RTV18_or_25_Thixotropic_Catalyst_562.html It'll still need 24 hours to cure but good for adding a thick layer onto a funny surface. To avoid bubbling you should paint a thin non-thixo'd layer over the thing you want to cast. This creates a bubble free detailed imprint of the item. When dry, you can then pour in rest to make the main body of your cast. But your bits look good. Casting of any sort does take some time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NegativeEleven Posted December 25, 2012 Author Share Posted December 25, 2012 Looks like that site only sells to UK, but they do sell silicone catalyst separately. I guess I gotta do some more searching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chef Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 Yeah. You should be able to get the catalysts separately. Just have a hunt for a decent supplier your side of the pond. I'm sure there must be some. I'm fortunate CFS is just around the corner from me, and Alex the chap behind the counter is a SW geek too, so I get a good discount! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.