Micahman6525
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Do you have a recommendation on spray paint brand/color that I could use for the thermal detonator tube and helmet greeblies? Looking online at rust oleums painters touch flat grey but it’s labeled as primer, would that work for everything that needs to be grey or do you know of what’s typically used by others? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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How does the grey look for the tubes? Wanted to check before gluing stuff into place. Didn’t have straight grey so I used rust oleum filler/ sandable. Definitely think I’m going to cut a half inch off either side most likely, just seems a little long. And assuming the black clips go about halfway/ 2/3rds closer to the white caps? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Sorry for the delay everyone, college started back up so I’ve been busy with that. Slowly working on the soft armor alterations, just wanted to run by the fixed length for my boots. (Sorry for the quality, had to take a video to get these shots) Per the recommendations I lowered it by 2 inches. How does this look? And I eventually need to Velcro the knees to the flight suit but how should the armor pieces sit? (2 pictures sitting down with different knee placement) (Haven’t made any cuts yet, that’s why the boots look weird at the seam/ Velcro line) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Ah, for that I was using a longer pull length rivet but I ended up just using a short rivet and flipped it around. Now we’re golden:) This costume is teaching me so much patience and troubleshooting lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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What does the pull length reference? The thicker part of the rivet or the part where the rivet gun latches onto? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I don’t know what I’m doing wrong but wanted to check here before drilling the rivet out….again. It looks like the mandrel head is either slipping through or entirely popping off and leaves it looking like this (pictures below). Is this either A. Fixable or B. Approvable (basic certification) or do I need to drill it out and start over? If so im just flipping the orientation so it’ll be hidden. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I’m working on finishing the tank, I had a question about the orientation of the top rivet. From Mickeys armor party build, he shows the mandrel (the part the rivet gun holds onto) facing down into the tank. On RS video they have the mandrel facing up (towards the tank greeblie) On the CRL there’s a screen grab (with mandrel down I think), and also an additional picture which shows mandrel up (I think) ((not sure where picture is OG sourced from)) . Can anyone help me understand the correct orientation? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Thank you chopper! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Also, my current kit does not have the notches in the helmet so it can stay open. Does anyone know of any threads/topics that modded a helmet to include it? Or should I just accept that my visor should primary stay shut? I know for events it should stay closed but I’m just thinking like usability/ taking clearance pictures that show your face (would taking the helmet off be acceptable instead of lifting the visor up?)
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Is there a recommended spray paint for the medium or neutral grey greeblies? There's so many grey colors/ brands/ types so I thought I’d ask!
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Thank you so much Chopper, I really appreciate all the feedback. the cummerbund is as high as possible so unfortunately I’ll be snipping off a couple inches. For the TD tubing, would that also use medium gray or flat gray spray paint? I’ll work on pinning things up and take new pictures when I get the chance, hopefully sometime tomorrow.
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Whelp with the help my of brother, tape, and safety pins I was able to try most things on to get a feel for how it should look. Thought I’d be excited to put it on but frankly I’m discouraged with the amount of alterations that will need to be done concerning the soft armor. Few things to mention: 1. Yes I know not all pieces are trimmed perfectly, still hammering away at that. 2. Drop box height can be adjusted 3. With the belt sitting right below my naval, I definitely think the cummerbund needs the bottom snipped about an inch or so since it was resting underneath the belt in the picture. Also going off the diy pouch thread, the pouch attachment point seems a tad too long, may need to trim that on top of the cummerbund. 4. The flak vest seems to be sticking out a lot, even if the biceps cover it will that need to be altered also? If so how many inches do you think? 5. I’ll include measurements of various items, is the TD or boots too long? 6. For the greeblies, they are already the base color they need to be (minus some painting of different colors ie. The tank greeblie, should they be spray painted or is that color seem fine? Or any way to clean it up? Please don’t be shy in picking the armor apart, I want to make sure I address anything that would be a basic clearance issue. Thanks everyone. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Clarifying question, in relations to your knee, should your kneecap be in the upper or lower portion of the knee armor? Boots might a tad high but if needed it’s a relatively easy sewing fix to alter it.
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Micahman6525 started following Some tips for keeping your scout costume together while trooping
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@Chopper do you have build recommendations about connecting the zip ties from the shoulder bell to chest/back shoulder piece? Do you glue it into place or use Velcro to be able to take it on and off with ease? And is the setup supposed to be directly underneath the wrapped portion of the shoulder or off to one side? Thanks for the post.
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If I got Rustoleum painters touch white gloss paint+ primer, did I make a mistake or can I use it and be fine? for the greeblies/ snout indent portion, do you use just paint with a brush or spray paint?