LocoOttomobile

There doesn't seem to be a color standard. Its a satin-ish black. THe finish is then beat up. Various shades of mettalic metal/silver to simulate paint wear to the metal undereath. The bolt area is then washed with black or nuhl oil wash from games workshop. Weather seems to be optional. I'm going for desert/beach dirt so I then washed mine with browns to get dirt into the nooks and crannies.

Here's where I'm at so far. I decided to go for what I think is the hero build and got all the red lights working running off a lithium battery in the hollowed out stock. Does it matter if the flashlight is functional or not? https://1drv.ms/i/s!AjQ7HXK9C6pOlVwFSkf-XRQ8I2jK?e=JudfsE Also does it matter what the texture on the grip is? I've seen different grips in different pictures and it doesn't seem to be part of the standard.

Take a look at the leg assembly videos on you tube from Imperial Surplus. They use strips of ABS to shim their kit to fit. That can give you ideas on how to use strips of ABS to repair the seams on the back. They may be able to sell you spare parts to redo the shin fronts as well. Is your intent to have the straps close in the front or in the back? If in the front you can remove the straps, hollow them out a bit on the back and use either a strip of flexible plastic, rubber or aluminum along with epoxy and flexible adhesive to get them back into a single piece. Alternately, I just saw some straps on sale over at Etsy yesterday that you could use to replace. Keep us posted!

I'm a Squad Leader from R1. The Kama sold me. Just got mine approved last month.

Looking really good! After my first round of weathering was advised by Mel, one of the vanguards, to really go after the weathering. Mine still isn't as dirty as some of the others. Nice job. Keep it up!

You have the imperial surplus helmet right? That's molded abs plastic. Heavy, but very strong.

About 5-6 weeks. They come from Asia but the quality was very good.

Its looking good! The ABS is black. Don't be afraid to use sand paper to bring out the base and primer layers. That helps with weathering too. The top coat will protect it. I also did two different wash coats on top of the top coat. They will wear off and smear over time but it will add to the aging effect without messing up the base coat. Love the work you've put in.

Nevermind, I got access today! When you have time can you send me the link to the merch you were mentioning? No rush. Thanks!!

Hi Mel. You said I should reach out if I didn't get access to the garrison in a few days. I haven't heard anything. I put my request in both on the main Titan website and on the Titan Forum website. I know they don't check every day so they may haven't gotten to it yet, but just wanted to check in about it. Do you know when the next meet and greet is? Had lots of fun Saturday and Wendi and I have lots of notes on how to make sure my kit is better stocked and to fix a couple construction issues I had. Talk to you soon! John

Ok, so I have the E-22 kit from 850 armor works waiting to be assembled on my work bench. Questions: 1) There are 9 lights: 2 on each side of the rear power tube. Do those need a clear red cover or are the slots open with each LED visible? 2 lights forward of the power tube where the single power tube goes to a double barrel. Any good pictures? 3 lights in counter 1 or two lights in the barrel tips? Are the lights required for level 1 or just level 2? Are 3d printed scope and flashlight ok for level 2 or just level 1? All the fasteners are either button or countersunk M4 screws (just like on paintball guns). However my 3d printed kit also has additional smaller screws modelled in several areas. Are those ok or should I grind them off and drill them for real ones of approximately the same size?

I don't seem to have enough space to upload a larger image and the link isn't showing a preview, but here it is! Pretty much all finished! For the weathering I did one wash layer in rust and another in black, painting it on with a brush and then blotting it. I'm pretty happy with it. https://1drv.ms/i/s!AjQ7HXK9C6pOlGK9qC0ZBGLt-QZL?e=nWjgib https://1drv.ms/a/s!AjQ7HXK9C6pOk2x0RDn8asKlMl1B?e=ssYR99 I'm previewing it to the membership and hopefully be submitting it formally next week. Fun build! but I'm glad to be near the end.

I've been bad about posting my progress. All parts are trimmed and painted, my wife made me an awesome kama. Now just working on fitment and attaching the shoulder guards. https://1drv.ms/a/s!AjQ7HXK9C6pOk2x0RDn8asKlMl1B?e=E4dnW1

It was pretty quick. Less than a month. They were great

Anyone know what parts these are for? I dont see them in any of my references.

Just about done with assembly. Then its on to final sanding and paint!

Haven't posted in a while. Finished assembling the arms. The belt is next. I got my belt from KeepTrooping and the buckle is taller than the plastic buckle. Advice on hiding? Also, on the shoulder pads, I didn't fit them with snaps yet. I was thinking of starting with velcro and only installing snaps if they didn't hold well. Did anyone line the inside of the shoulder pads or use them straight?

First leg is built

The build videos from Imperial Surplus use it for things like the back of the sniper knee where they fill in the ABS shell with EVA foam and then fill in around the edges with bondo. I was thinking I'd also use it for the leg clamshell joint to smooth it out. I hadn't heard of ABS slurry. I just looked it up. How do you keep the slurry from dissolving too much of the ABS you are applying it to? Does it just evaporate before it does? I guess that would end up being like a weld...

Got my kit from imperial surplus! Starting with the legs. Lots of you tube and working, you tube and working. Think I need to get some bondo too...

When building an E-22 for level 2 certification, the CRL states that the, "Base is based on S&T Airsoft sterling with closed working parts." Does that mean I need to start with an airsoft gun like this one: S&T Full Metal Custom Sterling Airsoft AEG SMG with Heat Sink and Scope, Airsoft Guns, Airsoft Electric Rifles - Evike.com Airsoft Superstore Or does it mean I can use a 3D print as long as its based on the airsoft model like this one: E-22 Blaster (850armorworks.com) thanks!

I just got my pants from Keep Trooping and they are great. Quality is good and fit is nice. I'd recommend them.

I color matched it for Windsor and Newton Vermillion Arcylic paint. Which makes sense because its a British artist's paint and much of the costuming is based on British parts and paints.

Thanks Aradun! That explains why I don't see the ICOM with shoretrooper kits. Shore's are based on the scouts. There's not much with them talking in Rouge One so I wanted to be sure.