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L0CKSTER

PFD Recruit
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Everything posted by L0CKSTER

  1. Awesome, will do. Thanks guys Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Hey gang, I probably should’ve created this a while ago but eh, better late than never. I have made all of the soft goods myself and so now all I have left to do is to sew the pig suede riding patches and thigh straps on and remove the pockets on the flight suit. Last night I sewed the butt flap on using real pig suede and it’s so much nicer than the faux stuff I’d bought, and it doesn’t fray [emoji119] I bought it from Leffler Leather under @M.J ’s recommendation and it looks great. Definitely recommend them for any fellow Aussie scouts looking for real suede. I bought the 6sq ft size for about $13 AUD and that seems to be plenty of material to work with. I’m attaching 2 pictures of the sewn-on butt flap just to get a general idea of if it’s too big and if so, how much to snip off. It also kind of bunches up a bit when I put the cummerbund on but not sure if that’s much of an issue as the belt would kind of cover that up. I think it’s bunching because I’ve sewn it quite high up my back to make sure the bottom edge lined up with the bottom of my bum. If I have to trim it a bit I might also re-sew it lower down so the cummerbund doesn’t squash it as much. Keen to hear thoughts on what you guys think! Cheers! Lachy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Oh yep that makes sense, I suppose the pig skin being thinner would let it move a little easier when walking and sitting down. They are adding it to the website tomorrow 10am AEST so i'll check out how big their pieces are tomorrow morning. On pricing, pig suede looks to be about a third of the price, both non-member and member price, of the cow suede so I'll try and get the pig suede if size permits but it sounds like it should be fine from your experience Really appreciate all the help @M.J!
  4. I got in contact with them and they've said that they do sell the black pig suede and that it's odd it's not showing up on the website. They did say that the pieces are smaller though. If cow suede is an acceptable suede for Lancer, I might just go for cow instead of pig.
  5. Perfect! Their cow suede is 1.3 mm thick. Chopper said that should be a good thickness. I couldn’t seem to find any black pigs suede, do you know if they ever stocked that? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. @M.J thanks for your reply! So i actually have the faux suede from spotlight and have done some preliminary cuts for the butt flap with it but was thinking hmm i should probably just get the real deal if im going through the motions anyway. I’ll be using the same material for the riding patches and the butt flap. I might just end up buying that cow suede or one from that Melbourne store you linked for me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Ah right ok sweet, I’ll take a look at pig suede. Would cow suede pass Lancer spec? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Thanks @Chopper not sure how I missed this site. Seems like a good one. Which one should I choose? The cow suede or the heavy weight suede? Hey @Tarok I did I was suggested to check out leathercraft but had trouble finding that. I found a leathercraftaustralia but couldn’t find raw material on their site sadly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Hey guys, Am I allowed to give my faux suede butt flap a small hem to prevent it from fraying? Would that pass level 1. I did see another technique that uses tape on the back of the fabric to prevent fraying without a visible stitched hem but not sure how well that would hold up with use. I understand faux suede won’t pass level 2, but I can’t seem to get a nice genuine suede in Aus which I find hard to believe, I can only find US websites. Cheers! Lachy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. TD means thermal detonator Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Hey scouts, I’m just wondering, when you’re suited up, how far can you lift your arm up? I can just get my upper arms to lift up to about 90 degrees straight out to the side but I’m getting a lot of resistance from the vest under the arm because it’s tucked under the cummerbund. If I pull up some of the material to give some slack, the slack bunches up and sits on top of the cummerbund under my arm. I haven’t tried it on with the connecting elastic from chest armour to back armour and am thinking that strap might rein some of the excess in and control it a bit Has anyone had this issue? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Ok sweet, I was leaning towards 1 inch spacing so I’ll stick with that [emoji106] thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Hi guys! Just wondering if the ribbing lines on the sleeves of the vest have to be an exact measurement wide? Similar to how the cummerbund’s front 6 lines must be an inch wide. There isn’t any mention of it in the CRL so I assumed as long as they’re equal distance, it didn’t matter what that distance was, while still obviously looking within cooey Cheers! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. mm yeah maybe because the red stripe is subject to complete sun exposure as well given that it's on top as opposed to the side decals. I'm going to be using PLA 3D printed armour I've printed myself (still need to sand it, I'm procrastinating haha) so hopefully that shouldn't affect it's adhesion.
  15. I do live in Aus like you but over in Perth and having it peel off did cross my mind. I might see how long it lasts and if I start having peeling issues like you did I'll just paint it on haha
  16. Ok beauty, thanks chopper! Of course, I might go down the decal path as it might look just that little bit cleaner Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Hey guys, Just wondering if the red line on the tank topper is supposed to be a sticker decal or painted on. Cheers! Lachy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. I’m currently making my pouches at the moment but the insert I’m using is a 3D printed rectangular prism proportionate to the size of the pouches, using a file given to me by Mr Poopy. Obviously this relies on owning your own 3D printer but if you do I’d strongly encourage going down this path as the plastic is purpose fit/shaped and is pretty light. It gives the pouches a nice shape too with nice soft looking edges. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Oh man, stay cool. We haven't had much above low 30's since those 40's so hopefully that heatwave cools off soon for you guys. But absolutely, a split in the suit is definitely a good idea!
  20. Haha yeah I have considered the ol cut in half approach but I have a feeling I’ll also be dehydrating pretty quickly being in Australia. I tend to last a while between wee’s anyway [emoji23]Here in Perth we had a record of I think 10 to 13 days over 40°C in Feb. My scout isn’t ready to troop in yet but can’t imagine I would’ve survived in it if I did [emoji28] weeing would’ve been the least of my worries haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. Mm yeah I’m not super keen on adding any more weight than I need to, and with me living in Aus where I imagine trooping in summer in costume is killer, adding a heavy td into the mix probably isn’t such a great idea haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. Yeah I think the pool tubing reins supreme. I’ll stick to doing it that way [emoji28] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. My partners parents have some spare grey plastic washing line cord and was wondering if this would be alright to use on the TD to wrap around the tubes? I’m thinking the wire is too thin but pls let me know! Otherwise yeah I’ll just go down the pool tubing route. The cord is 4mm in diameter. Pic below: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. Actually yeah I did think about pool tubing and was actually looking for STL’s of pool tubing as a last ditch effort [emoji23] I’d might as well just get proper pool tubing! Thanks heaps Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. Hi guys, Just wondering if anyone knows where I might be able to find a thermal detonator STL to print where the tube is corrugated and bumpy? I’m using Mr Poopy’s smooth TD tube design which is great but I’ve gone off the idea of actually wire wrapping the tube and would rather the lighter weight option of it being printed with the bumps. I’m not very good at designing 3D objects either but if worst comes to worst I’ll give it a try but I don’t like my chances. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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