DukeOfNachos

I have Velcro on my knees, helps tons.

So I secured the two halves of the faceplate with the visor bolts when i was working on it. You do have a flat to work with for gluing, it's at the top of the faceplate and where it hits the blinders. Hope this helps, let me know if you need me to link any photos of my bucket (invest in velcro dots for keeping her closed).

I didn't secure my visor/faceplate till after my first troop You have to mark the visor holes, line up the faceplate as much as you can and then go from there. I blew a hole in my Back/CAP part of the helmet when I was like 90% done at the end of a successful day of building thought I destroyed it.

I had a lot of wobble with my padding installed, switched to the hard hat liner and no wobble. I just don’t keep it super tight Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had this same issue when I made my SC helmet. Almost there! Before: After:

Pilot bay, imperial boots(keep trooping), crow props, cucblack, chris909 on the forums or if you can sew, you there’s a forum post with softgood vendors as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have Velcro behind my pouches(side facing my vest) and then hook Velcro on the vest to connect to the bund Vest facing side Pouch facing side for reference Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

s'what i got originally. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R5HYWRW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Peanut Gallery observations. 1. While you can dress yourself (as I did). I think it would help to have someone make fine adjustments. It helps LOADS, i call my daughter my squire... its kinda fitting. 2. Neck seal pretty much just there to traps in all that body heat. Luckily the neck seal is Optional, unless we're talking about the mandarin collar. 3. The lower edge knee armor really digs in. Have to add padding of some sort. My knee is velcro'd to my kneecap, so i'm not really digging any plastic into the meat of my knees. 4. Helmet starts to open when you bend over. Might add some Velcro to keep it shut. Face plate in the fully open position locks in place but makes a popping sound when pulling it back down. I'm not going to lock it in place like this as I fear over time it will cause it to crack. Add a velcro Dot right where the helmet hits at the lowest point, works great. 5. The bigger Jumpsuit feels better. Those elastic thigh straps were cutting off the circulation in my legs. Yay! you can always work with extra room! Things I need to work on: 1. Attach Velcro to cod piece. Attach the mate to your vest ~1" or so up from the bottom edge. 2. Create a bridge for the belt. Thermal detonator should be long enough to cover it. If the TD doesnt cover it like one of the armory team said, just pop the rivet and make a new webbing piece, its pretty easy. 3. Cummerbund is too long. In one picture you can see that I wrapped one end under the other. Black strap I'm holding is to show where the Cummerbund closes in the back. I think it too far off from the center I'll have to trim some of the length off. Guess I'm buying one of those handheld sewing machines. I feel this, i just updated my original one AND made a new one to make refinements while getting things to lancer level spec! add velcro front/back of the bund 1" from the outer ribs. The ones that face out, hook them to your pouches, the ones that face in, hook it to your vest. 4. And I'll need to sew on the pouches. See answer to 3. It works great, and they can be removed if you need to wash etc.

if you're going to 3D print the files, invest in Armorsmith, it'll allow you to create a 3D model of yourself so you know what to scale your files to.

I had pads in the top of mine before (so i had velcro there already). I put some the loop across the top of the band and just hooked it up.

Had a chance to take the DLT-19X to troop today, had some ground time with some ACD Drivers.

Grats! Just in time for the racing shirt order Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That seam is a 5’ issue I don’t think anyone’s going to call me out on it. If only it was ala hot toys and had a sling :/ (Waiting on tape for the scope) and once that’s done it’ll get a clear coat and its scope attached. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Needs her scope mounted and some details on the stock side (and wire) but glad to be closer to the end. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So been awhile, have all of the rifle printed/primed/sanded. Just need to paint the copper tube inside and commit to glueing the barrel in place before the next round of covering seams. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I stopped it last night before I got too far and redid the build plate this morning. I had read about upping the walls to 4, and using 20% infill. I’m about a third of the way done for all the barrel parts minus the fins . Good to know I’m on the right track Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So i just got a new printer and i'm ready to finally tackle the DLT-19x. Dumb question, what infill do you guys normally do it at?

I had to find my pic… took awhile :| Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You could also cut at the point that goes in the boxes (inverted V) put your velcro on the ends of the boxes, and then have a second strap that goes from the backside of the the box and then feed that to the back part of the belt

Walmart has these that I used. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ozark-Trail-Men-s-Troy-Boots/931045664

How does it do staying open? mine will stay open like 3 seconds

Gloves: WampaWear / Endor Finders Boots: Walmart (Ozark Trail Men's Troy Boots - Walmart.com) Flight Suit: PilotBay (~180+Shipping for tailored to you) Soft Goods: I handmade my Cod/Bund/Pouches (also have Pilot Bay pouches though) easy enough.

My helmet (sc) was sticking too far out as well, I trimmed the edges so that it would leave less gap on the sides.

@ChopperSC’s holster is two parts.