Bitz

The bells and biceps are have been went along very smoothly. Both have been scaled a few percent to fit my frame. My big take away was from the biceps. I originally printed them using the "closed bicep" files. I found it to be very tight for me. I reprinted them in the "open bicep" version. They are much comfortable now, and I can draw them in using elastic cord if needed. The open just works better for a 3d printed piece, if I were gonna cast a set in a more flexible material I would opt for the closed. Paint is done in the same method as all my pieces. Shock Dark Brown then Gloss varnish. Targeted chip weathering using latex then Sahara Beige. The Right bicep then received Dupli-Color Super Red II and Montana Yellow Cab for the bars. I knocked back some of the layers with sand paper to expose the different color layers. All parts with receive finial breakdown and weathering at a later date. This above pic, exhibits some forced perception, the bells are not that tiny. I still need to add the rank paint to the bells. I'm waiting for my chest to be ready for that stage.

As I mentioned, I started this project around Christmas 2022. This is where I was at the one year mark. I have printed my ab section twice. Both were scaled to 95% on the Z axis. They were cut in 6 pieces, the main ab section in 3 pieces and the pedals separate and in 3 pieces. My first set was backed with fiberglass mat and it was just too stiff for my liking, so I reprinted a new one. The main body was printed in PETG with 2 walls and 12% infill (my printers was really dialed in.) for the pedals I used 4 walls and 50% infill, they are basically solid. To bond my pieces I use JB weld plastic bonder. I use this adhesive primarily because of its strength and it sands really well. I backed the interior and reinforced the pedals with 1.6 mm abs plastic sheets, cut to fit. It has better flex and is lighter than my fiberglass attempt. Since opted to go with 2 walls I had to go easy on the sanding. No power sander on this part. After 2 passes of filler primer, I brushed on a coat of Bondo spot putty diluted with acetone to smooth out any layer lines. I applied my base coat of Montana Shock Dark brown after it dries, I used Montana gloss varnish. I use liquid latex to create a chipping effect on the paint during the painting process, before final breakdown and weathering. For the top coat I use Sahara Beige and Shock Black. This is where this pieces stands now. I will do my final breakdown and weathering when all pieces are complete.

Hello, my name is Stu and live in central Texas. This will be my first 501st submission. I first learned of the legion in the 2007 when I was working in the exhibits department of a museum and we were hosting a large exhibit of Star Wars movie artifacts. My "claims to fame" during that period was making a greeble repair to Luke's land speeder (under direction from someone with Lucasfilm) and almost breaking the Millennium Falcon! I have always enjoyed making costumes and props, but never to this level of accuracy. I loved the movie R1 and I was blown away by the look of the Shoretrooper. In 2021 I decided I wanted to make an honest stab at a movie replica costume, that when I entered the rabbit hole. After some kit research I opted to 3d print one and bought myself a printer for Christmas! I look forward to sharing my build and any insight others may have! Soft Goods: Under ****/ Neck Seal- IB (Keep Trooping) Gloves- Endor Finders Pants (Lvl 2)/ Kama- Darkside Closet Shoes- Orca Bay Brecon (Sand) - Katherine Partis Belt-IB Helm: Nico's Files Lens- Branfuhr Studios Armor: Files- Mr. Pauls Shoretrooper Build Boxes/Back Greebles/Belt cover- MPSB Rigging Kit- MPSB E22 (Hero): Kuroi Sabato V3 Paints: Montana Gold- Shock Dark Brown, Shock Black, Sahara Beige, Pebble, Yellow Cab, Red Orange, Gloss Varnish (over base coat) Dupli-Color- Super Red II (3E5) My perfect color- Porter 6467-2 Nordic Blue (satin) Printers: Ender 5 Pro- PETG (Black) Saturn S- ABS Like Resin