MikeRadness

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Hey @MediumWillPower, Welcome! Always excited about another Shore! I look forward to watching you though your build and am here to answer any question you may have! Mike

Hey Fog, not sure how I missed this post. There’s no requirement to have the side bridges permanently affixed. Mine are. But I can see how removable bridges could be beneficial. The CRL just requires the “Chest and back plate meet flush at the sides.” Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey there! Sorry for the delayed response. I’m not totally sure about leaving them. Let’s see if any of the others have advice on that. another idea might be a rotary tool with a sanding bit. That knocks it out pretty clean. -Mike

Just a quick observation. These little lips (green arrow) can be removed, taken down to where the yellow arrow is pointing. I’m sorry I didn’t catch it on your previous post with the biceps. Hope this helps. Mike

So, keep in mind that my kit is a different maker (MPSB), and that all of this is adjustable based off what kind of strapping you are using. My shoulder snap is approx 1 3/8” from top to center snap. my bicep snap is approx 4 1/4” from bottom to center snap. My top snaps are in place based of how they sit on my bell supports. But the snap itself should get you started. Then fine tune with the length of the elastic or webbing you decide to use to attach to the chest. Here’s my support setup (also Mr. Paul): Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other Qs. Mike

Hey @Fogout, I’ll get my bells out and do some measuring and take some pics. Give me a little bit to dig it out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking good! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey @SMilt! Thanks for the additional shots. You MAY be able to get these repaired by using some ABS and ABS paste (ABS scraps and acetone). If you chose to go that route just look at some reference shots. And do your best. But, to me It looks like the previous owner has made some mods that may not be salvageable. I leave this open to other opinions from the team. However, I hate to say this, if this were my build I might consider looking for some replacements. May cost a little, but save lots of time in the long run. And most likely be happier.

Hey there! I’m here to help also. I’ll wait for your responses to Mickey and Joe to get a bit more detail. -Mike

@sian TIse, here is an 850 shin pre trimmed (1st pic). I took this pic a while back, so do not trim like the line I have drawn on here. You’re going to want to measure to fit your shin/calf length and then trim a more rounded bottom. Like in the second pic: the left is an 850 and the Right is a Mr Paul. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you using primer or any undercoat here? I’ve had similar reactions with different paint applications not “curing” long enough to let the acetone levels drop. And I saw this kind of raised/peeling. It was specially drastic when using Rustoleum primers. The weather could definitely be a factor. I just wanted to throw the other possibilities out there too since I’ve had frustrating experiences like these even in the driest of conditions. Hope this helps? -Mike Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@Gojira72, this looks great. I can see that you’ve put in a ton of hard work and it shows. Your shins seem to be sitting a little askew. Not sure if that’s just an oversight, or an issue with them staying centered. If they don’t stay put, a little foam run along the inside calf may help (I use closed cell sponge foam in scenarios like this when needed). But overall, Nice Work! Pathfinders lead the way! Mike

Hey @Cyra Marrus! I also do not have experience with Sean’s files personally. Buy mirror the others here that say many have been approved with them. Building my Shoretrooper was the most fun I’ve had in the hobby. Glad you’re joining us! I can share a little bit about my personal weathering process which seems to produce decent results. In this thread I made, even though it is a “conversion” thread, it talks about many parts of my build technique. Hope you find some of it helpful. The entries that cover weathering specifically are on Oct 28th (Chipping) and Nov 9th (scuffing and grime): Happy Building! Pathfinders lead the way! Mike

Looks great!! Nice work! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey @batphobic! Yes, I did get Havana. Then with a combination of Saddle Soap and Black shoe polish, I was able to get them darker and richer. My goal was to get them close to matching my ammo pouch. Here’s what I ended up with.

I also do not have any experience with the SF files. My printing experience is with Mr Paul’s as well. If the other two team members tagged here by Mickey don’t have any advice here, I can try doing some research to see if I can come up with anything helpful. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking good! Making your own, I love it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I went to my local military surplus store and picked up a set of helmet pads. They did the trick for me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you Mickey and the rest of the Pathfinder team! I love this hobby and look forward to helping others in their journeys! Mike ST-26300 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@Minimo, here are some shots after multiple parts were repainted. Hip-plates, bucket and Belt Boxes are all repainted in these photos. Abdomen is not. I should have used these shots originally. Not sure what I was thinking. Do you still other adjustments?

Hey @minimo, are you recommending the abdomen be “dialed back”? Or the chest and biceps be more weathered? Looking for a little more clarity on what direction I should consider. I already repainted the bucket and hip plates based off Mickeys recommendation. The fully suited up pics in this submission are pre-repaint. I have some full suit up pics for those. Let me grab them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking good! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice work, @Larcwide! this kit is awesome! Mike

I also have used Mr. Paul's rigging kit... it makes the strapping part of these builds a breeze.