Jump to content

MikeRadness

Armoury Team
  • Posts

    70
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

MikeRadness last won the day on December 20 2024

MikeRadness had the most liked content!

Reputation

63 Excellent

About MikeRadness

  • Birthday 05/20/1973

Contact Methods

  • Facebook
    https://www.facebook.com/mike.foglia/

Profile Information

  • Level II Badge
    Vanguard ST
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Roseville, CA
  • Interests
    Star Wars (duh), Ghostbusters, (Almost anything 80's pop culture really), Music, Cooking, Baseball (Seattle Mariners)

501st Information

  • Name
    Mike
  • 501st Designation
    26300
  • 501st Garrison
    Central California Garrison
  • 501st Profile Page
    https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=36176
  • Approved Pathfinder Kits
    Shoretrooper: Grunt
    Shoretrooper: Squad Leader

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Great! Just to clarify, Stoo’s shack is a website that compares (some) available options. Mr Paul’s files are what I think you may be referring to. And yes, they cost a bit more, but are considered the most accurate. Stoo’s page does review a few other STL file options as well. Hope this helps. -Mike Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Hey there, @obgibson! I don’t have any personal experience with the GA files. But I have seen some real world photos of some that have used them for their build. And there are many inaccuracies. Especially the helmet. I think I read somewhere that Mickey said GA uses battlefront as a reference. So any inaccuracies on the game would also make their way to the files. There are other 3D print options out there. I’d suggest checking out Stoo’s Shoretrooper Shack website for some reviews, breakdowns and comparisons: https://shoretrooper.co.uk Do LOTS of research and compare to reference photos. The more pre-build analysis you do the better! Mike ST-26300 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Hey @MediumWillPower, Welcome! Always excited about another Shore! I look forward to watching you though your build and am here to answer any question you may have! Mike
  4. Hey Fog, not sure how I missed this post. There’s no requirement to have the side bridges permanently affixed. Mine are. But I can see how removable bridges could be beneficial. The CRL just requires the “Chest and back plate meet flush at the sides.” Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Hey there! Sorry for the delayed response. I’m not totally sure about leaving them. Let’s see if any of the others have advice on that. another idea might be a rotary tool with a sanding bit. That knocks it out pretty clean. -Mike
  6. Just a quick observation. These little lips (green arrow) can be removed, taken down to where the yellow arrow is pointing. I’m sorry I didn’t catch it on your previous post with the biceps. Hope this helps. Mike
  7. So, keep in mind that my kit is a different maker (MPSB), and that all of this is adjustable based off what kind of strapping you are using. My shoulder snap is approx 1 3/8” from top to center snap. my bicep snap is approx 4 1/4” from bottom to center snap. My top snaps are in place based of how they sit on my bell supports. But the snap itself should get you started. Then fine tune with the length of the elastic or webbing you decide to use to attach to the chest. Here’s my support setup (also Mr. Paul): Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other Qs. Mike
  8. Hey @Fogout, I’ll get my bells out and do some measuring and take some pics. Give me a little bit to dig it out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Looking good! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Hey @SMilt! Thanks for the additional shots. You MAY be able to get these repaired by using some ABS and ABS paste (ABS scraps and acetone). If you chose to go that route just look at some reference shots. And do your best. But, to me It looks like the previous owner has made some mods that may not be salvageable. I leave this open to other opinions from the team. However, I hate to say this, if this were my build I might consider looking for some replacements. May cost a little, but save lots of time in the long run. And most likely be happier.
  11. Hey there! I’m here to help also. I’ll wait for your responses to Mickey and Joe to get a bit more detail. -Mike
  12. @sian TIse, here is an 850 shin pre trimmed (1st pic). I took this pic a while back, so do not trim like the line I have drawn on here. You’re going to want to measure to fit your shin/calf length and then trim a more rounded bottom. Like in the second pic: the left is an 850 and the Right is a Mr Paul. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Are you using primer or any undercoat here? I’ve had similar reactions with different paint applications not “curing” long enough to let the acetone levels drop. And I saw this kind of raised/peeling. It was specially drastic when using Rustoleum primers. The weather could definitely be a factor. I just wanted to throw the other possibilities out there too since I’ve had frustrating experiences like these even in the driest of conditions. Hope this helps? -Mike Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. @Gojira72, this looks great. I can see that you’ve put in a ton of hard work and it shows. Your shins seem to be sitting a little askew. Not sure if that’s just an oversight, or an issue with them staying centered. If they don’t stay put, a little foam run along the inside calf may help (I use closed cell sponge foam in scenarios like this when needed). But overall, Nice Work! Pathfinders lead the way! Mike
×
×
  • Create New...