ImperialWalker

In what way is it not overall look accurate? Accuracy is always something I strive for and enjoy trying to attain. In this case I really would like to know what is inaccurate so I can either: A. Attempt to fix it after printing B. Decide if it is worthy of moving forward C. Alter the 3D files to reach a higher level of accuracy The challenge with people stating that it isn't accurate, but close, is that unless I do a deep dive myself, there isn't enough information to go on to make any choices. It is cool that it is approvable, but... perhaps it shouldn't be? If it isn't accurate why is it approvable? Perhaps another way to put this is, what would need to be done to the model to make this the top level approvable? Is it even possible? Is there perhaps a better model that I should be looking at?

Another detail I noticed. On the original helmet around the neckline, there seems to be a ridge almost like the black part is inset into the helmet. On Sean's helmet, this ridge is just a bezel and the round black oval near the back of the helmet seems to come down too far.

One detail I noticed while looking over some parts are the notches on the "Cheek.". You can see in the images below that while they do start at the bottom edge, the original has the notches curve inward while Sean's are just angled in slightly.

I’ve started printing Sean’s MK2 helmet and the more I research the next steps the more I keep coming across posts in various places where people say the same thing. That Sean’s helmet is approvable, but isn’t accurate and requires modification. The thing is, that is all they ever say. No mention of what is inaccurate or what mods are required. so, I am looking for more information. What exactly is not accurate about his MK2 helmet and what are the list of mods required to bring it to accurate, and is that even possible with this helmet? Thanks!

Thanks for the tip. I tend not to use hot glue ever. I prefer mechanical connections if I can and if I have to glue something, it is epoxy or CA. What my plan is on this helmet is that I am going to model a mount in Fusion and then use ZBrush to boolean it to the actual shape of the helmet. Part of my goal with this helmet is to make the inside look like an actual thing, so any electronics I put inside I want to be properly designed with greeblies and the works. For the visor, I would like to use small screws on the mount so it can be removed. I can also model in gaps if I need to for airflow/accuracy.

Hey Everyone, Just a quick update. I finally got the visor cut out. I probably did it the most convoluted way possible, but I took the helmet into ZBrush and isolated the shape of the goggles which I then printed. Then, I taped down heavy card stock into the "buck" and traced the shape of the visor. I then scanned the shape and then traced it in Illustrator. From there I was able to export a DXF to Fusion 360 where I extruded it to the same thickness as the visor as a test. It was a little big, so I reduced the overall size by a bit and reprinted. It fit perfectly in the helmet, so I taped that down to the Hobart which gave me a nice edge to cut around with a hobby knife. A quick sand along the edges and I placed it into the helmet. Perfect fit. I just need to create an internal structure that looks cool and will hold the visor in place, but also stay removable in case it need replacing. Thanks again to everyone for their help, especially, Kayelbe.

Hey everyone, I wanted to give an update and extend a huge thank you to, Kayelbe. He was very kind to send me a shield, card, and detachment patch that will look great on my Star Wars shelf. I have to say that in my experience, this kind of kindness and willingness to help others out is quite rare, so this was a surprise to be sure, but a welcome one. I'm excited to move forward with my helmet build and I want to thank everyone who went out of their way to help. It is truly much appreciated.

Hey, The CRL says "Gloss white or Semi-Gloss" but that is pretty vague. If you head to the automotive section of your local hardware store you will find all kinds of shades of white that fall within the gloss / semi-gloss range. Now, I the idea is to just be consistent in color or to come as close as possible to white ABS, but I am wondering if there is a certain white that scouts like to use so it not only looks great, but wears great and looks consistent when standing in a group?

I came across that one as well, but at $12 US + $70 US for shipping, that works out to be about $108 Canadian for one shield. A bit outside what I would consider reasonable for a $5 - 15 face shield.

Okay, I've Googled for hours looking for a place where one can purchase a Hobart face shield in Canada. Amazon.ca has them for $47 which is not going to happen. All the places that carry them in the USA do not ship internationally. Ebay has none listed as well. Where are Canadian's getting these shields? Is there a Canadian/EU alternative that is just as accurate?

What diameter did you end up making yours? Did you have to drill out the helmet?

Also, a quick list of what you still feel you need work on would help as we can then wait on those before nitpicking stuff you still haven't completed. I think for my initial thoughts, I would assure that you use the reference photos with the measurements (linked above / stickies post in helmet section). I think it is important to eliminate camera distortion as much as possible as many of the reference photos could look different than they actually are. I think that is one of the issues I've seen with other 3D helmets. The creators take images and try to match the sculpt, but it ends up in them looking too long/short in places. For example, here is your helmet superimposed on top of the Star Wars Helmets image. While they're at a slightly different angle, you can see how much wider the reference photos look. This could be lens distortion from their photo, or render distortion from the camera your software is set to emulate. If the sculpt is based off genuine measurements, then we at least know those are right and we can work forward under the assumption that any distortion is camera related. If you get my meaning.

Hey, Welcome! I think this is coming along great. Now that you're here though, I hope you don't mind some rigorous critiques. You are my only hope for a close as possible to screen accurate Scout trooper helmet. I also have some ideas how this can be made to 3D print easier and for some quality of life suggestions as well. As mentioned @MrPoopie modelled up some 3M bolts, but in case you wanted to handle all the sculpting yourself, here are some reference photos. Note: Tiny Hole is 1.62mm Dip in centre is roughly 0.74 deep It has a seam line that goes across the face and back, but I'm not sure if they consider that with adding around here.

Cool! I would like to see it. I have the parts printing right now, so I'll see what happens. Hopefully it works and keeps it open/closed, but worst case it should still keep it from rotating too much. Since you've had success, I have hopes it should work.

Okay, so I had a chance to contemplate this a bit. I was attempting to figure out how to combine the rotation limitations with some mechanic to keep it open/closed. I was working on a NASA space helmet project and to keep the visors up they use a rolling peg idea. Basically, as the visor comes up, a rounded section "skips" over a rolling peg, locking it in place. You can see in the design below, there are four pegs. Originally I had these hard modelled into the the part, but I was concerned that over time the plastic would wear itself down and it would no longer hold. This isn't a big deal for the centre peg, but because the larger part needs to be secured to the helmet, it would be a pain to replace. So, I opted to make the little pegs removable. This way they could be replaced with more PLA, resin or metal versions when they wear down. The question of course is whether it will be enough to hold the weight of the visor/mask/electronics? *shrug* The hole in the centre is for an M2 screw that holds a cap on the end. This keeps the pins in place and keeps hair, cords, and whatever else caught. When the small pegs or main peg needs to be replaced, the cap can be removed. Now. Here is my biggest issue. I am not a huge fan of glue connections. The last thing I need to do is make the back conform to the curves inside the helmet. While this will assure it fits nice and has logs of surface area, I am concerned that the torque on these parts will twist them off. Ideally I would have a few screws that would go into the helmet and secured with some heat push threads, but there just isn't room. So, the only real options are to hope glue holds, or build a larger base that can accommodate a mechanical connection such as screws. The issue is that this part then gets larger and heavier. I am in the process of modelling some internal components such as air vents, greeblies, battery/fan/electronics mounts, etc. So, this could in theory hold these in place with all those components, but for those who aren't interested in all that, it seems like a lot to put into a helmet just to mount this. Any thoughts you guys have would be greatly appreciated. I realize this is such an overkill project, but aside from just remodelling the helmet and reprinting it, this is the best I can come up with. Of course it still needs to be tested to see if it can even be realistically printed.

There is someone over on the RPF forum that is trying to make an accurate version and looking for feedback. I should perhaps encourage them to head over here. I realize I could get a kit of proper vacuum formed ABS, but I my goal is to see what can be done with 3D printing. I think it has potential to come very close to accurate, but I find that many of the modellers out there either by not knowing, or not caring, tend to miss some key details. The JS seems very close, but like I mentioned in my review it also seems very off in some places. I know it will never be 99.9% screen accurate, but I want to get as close as I possibly can.

Ya, if it was a plaster mold it is a good chance the middle part broke off. In the photo I posted above it looks like there is a slight bump. It is interesting that there are different versions. I don't feel so bad now. Very interesting.

I grow increasingly frustrated with this 3D printed JS helmet... 🤨 I was just looking at some reference photos and for some reason just now noticed that the rear indents/vents on the back/bottom of the helmet has one large one in the centre. The JS 3D print has these as two separate vents. So, should I break out the Dremel and remove the middle divider? Why is this not on all the Scout helmets? I have references from the Prop Store where they are separate. Anyone have some insight on this?

Fair. I'm still contemplating. I like that it is accurate to the originals, but I do like the clean look in a way.

I'll for sure share it. I just want to mess with it a bit more.

I've been working on an idea that could work. First let me show you. The idea is to drill the existing hole in the helmet to 5/16" (7.9mm). This will allow a brass tube to be inserted to give strength to the area. Next, the existing visor peg can be notched to fit into the peg inserted from the other side. This fits into the housing which limits the amount it can rotate. In general I like the design, but there are a few things that I wish I could figure out. 1. I am hoping that it is not too bulky. I have to print a test, but if the reduced area in the temples creates an issue putting on the helmet, then obviously this won't work. 2. I have been trying to figure out a way to integrate a open/close latching system. Having a single solution is preferable to multiple mechanisms, but the problem is space. Originally I wanted to use magnets, but the magnet size is limited in every possible configuration making them unlikely to be strong enough to hold the visor shut/open. I then looked at a Ball Latch system, but again, the lack of space is making it difficult to design anything that will work. 3. The biggest point of potential failure is the original pegs. This design uses the brass tube and a reenforced print, but the original peg can still snap where it attaches to the visor. I could consider removing the peg completely and building up the area, but this eliminates the ability to put in the bearing. 4. I don't like that while it is simple in some regards, it is kinda complex. Not only from a printing standpoint, but from a function standpoint. It requires drilling the helmet, purchasing a specific brass tube, and the installation could be fiddly. ... The only other solution I can think of to address the range of motion is to create a print that slides over the original peg that can be glued into place where the bearing would be. Then, attach a stopper to the helmet. This idea is much simpler, but has a few potential failure points and doesn't address keeping the helmet open/closed. So, while I'm at a point that a prototype could be printed, I'm not convinced of my own design.

Amazing! Thank you so much for this. I am positive this will be helpful for a lot of people.

I think the trick is to saw off the pegs so they only stick out a few millimetres past the mounting point for the circle. They don't need to be that long and it requires less flexing of the visor to install it. Same for the keys. I sawed them down just enough that it would keep the visor in place. Now I don't have to pull on everything so much. The simple fact of the matter is JS needs to adjust his model so the pivot point is in the correct spot on the inside. That way proper 3M bolts can be used.

So far, my thoughts were: Creating something to slide over the printed pivot peg that would be inserted from the inside of the helmet. It would have a tab on it that would only allow the visor to pivot within a certain range. This idea is nice because it involves minimal damage to the helmet (drilling out the peg hole) and only a few things need to be glued/attached inside the helmet. The potential issue is that the peg may not be strong enough to take the torque and it would snap off. I've been trying to be careful as well, but I've had it swing open by accident and damage my primer coat. I can only imagine the disaster it would be if it chipped the paint right down to the primer on the final helmet.

I am building the Jesus S 3D printed helmet and I'm struggling with how the visor opens/closes. Closed The first issue I have is that it won't stay closed. I've seen others use velcro, but I would like to avoid this if possible. Mostly because I don't really have anywhere for velcro to go, plus I am not a fan of having to flex the face/visor to open/close it. I thought about magnets, but mounting them in some meaningful way seems like a bit of a pain. I thought about some kind of clip system, but wasn't sure what would work. Would you guys mind showing me your solutions? Open Unfortunately as some of you may have seen in my review, the JS 3D printed helmet does not line up on the pivot point. This means the 3M bolt does not function. The way it works is it uses 3D printed pegs that slot into holes in the helmet allowing it to open. The original designer suggested adding in bearings to help it swivel easier. The problem is that this doesn't really allow for much flexibility when it comes to keeping the face/visor open. The helmet is also quite heavy so it would require something substantial to keep it up. Any thoughts on how this could be done? Damage Because this isn't made of vacuum formed plastic, it requires priming, painting and sealing. The issue is that whenever the face/visor is opened all the way, the visor connects with the main part of the helmet. This stops the visor, but it also digs into the paint causing flat/dented spots. I would like to find a way to limit the face/visor from opening that far with some kind of stop. Any thoughts on how this could be done? Thanks everyone!