ImperialWalker

In what way is it not overall look accurate? Accuracy is always something I strive for and enjoy trying to attain. In this case I really would like to know what is inaccurate so I can either: A. Attempt to fix it after printing B. Decide if it is worthy of moving forward C. Alter the 3D files to reach a higher level of accuracy The challenge with people stating that it isn't accurate, but close, is that unless I do a deep dive myself, there isn't enough information to go on to make any choices. It is cool that it is approvable, but... perhaps it shouldn't be? If it isn't accurate why is it approvable? Perhaps another way to put this is, what would need to be done to the model to make this the top level approvable? Is it even possible? Is there perhaps a better model that I should be looking at?

Another detail I noticed. On the original helmet around the neckline, there seems to be a ridge almost like the black part is inset into the helmet. On Sean's helmet, this ridge is just a bezel and the round black oval near the back of the helmet seems to come down too far.

One detail I noticed while looking over some parts are the notches on the "Cheek.". You can see in the images below that while they do start at the bottom edge, the original has the notches curve inward while Sean's are just angled in slightly.

I’ve started printing Sean’s MK2 helmet and the more I research the next steps the more I keep coming across posts in various places where people say the same thing. That Sean’s helmet is approvable, but isn’t accurate and requires modification. The thing is, that is all they ever say. No mention of what is inaccurate or what mods are required. so, I am looking for more information. What exactly is not accurate about his MK2 helmet and what are the list of mods required to bring it to accurate, and is that even possible with this helmet? Thanks!

Thanks for the tip. I tend not to use hot glue ever. I prefer mechanical connections if I can and if I have to glue something, it is epoxy or CA. What my plan is on this helmet is that I am going to model a mount in Fusion and then use ZBrush to boolean it to the actual shape of the helmet. Part of my goal with this helmet is to make the inside look like an actual thing, so any electronics I put inside I want to be properly designed with greeblies and the works. For the visor, I would like to use small screws on the mount so it can be removed. I can also model in gaps if I need to for airflow/accuracy.

Hey Everyone, Just a quick update. I finally got the visor cut out. I probably did it the most convoluted way possible, but I took the helmet into ZBrush and isolated the shape of the goggles which I then printed. Then, I taped down heavy card stock into the "buck" and traced the shape of the visor. I then scanned the shape and then traced it in Illustrator. From there I was able to export a DXF to Fusion 360 where I extruded it to the same thickness as the visor as a test. It was a little big, so I reduced the overall size by a bit and reprinted. It fit perfectly in the helmet, so I taped that down to the Hobart which gave me a nice edge to cut around with a hobby knife. A quick sand along the edges and I placed it into the helmet. Perfect fit. I just need to create an internal structure that looks cool and will hold the visor in place, but also stay removable in case it need replacing. Thanks again to everyone for their help, especially, Kayelbe.

Hey everyone, I wanted to give an update and extend a huge thank you to, Kayelbe. He was very kind to send me a shield, card, and detachment patch that will look great on my Star Wars shelf. I have to say that in my experience, this kind of kindness and willingness to help others out is quite rare, so this was a surprise to be sure, but a welcome one. I'm excited to move forward with my helmet build and I want to thank everyone who went out of their way to help. It is truly much appreciated.

Hey, The CRL says "Gloss white or Semi-Gloss" but that is pretty vague. If you head to the automotive section of your local hardware store you will find all kinds of shades of white that fall within the gloss / semi-gloss range. Now, I the idea is to just be consistent in color or to come as close as possible to white ABS, but I am wondering if there is a certain white that scouts like to use so it not only looks great, but wears great and looks consistent when standing in a group?

I came across that one as well, but at $12 US + $70 US for shipping, that works out to be about $108 Canadian for one shield. A bit outside what I would consider reasonable for a $5 - 15 face shield.

Okay, I've Googled for hours looking for a place where one can purchase a Hobart face shield in Canada. Amazon.ca has them for $47 which is not going to happen. All the places that carry them in the USA do not ship internationally. Ebay has none listed as well. Where are Canadian's getting these shields? Is there a Canadian/EU alternative that is just as accurate?

What diameter did you end up making yours? Did you have to drill out the helmet?

Also, a quick list of what you still feel you need work on would help as we can then wait on those before nitpicking stuff you still haven't completed. I think for my initial thoughts, I would assure that you use the reference photos with the measurements (linked above / stickies post in helmet section). I think it is important to eliminate camera distortion as much as possible as many of the reference photos could look different than they actually are. I think that is one of the issues I've seen with other 3D helmets. The creators take images and try to match the sculpt, but it ends up in them looking too long/short in places. For example, here is your helmet superimposed on top of the Star Wars Helmets image. While they're at a slightly different angle, you can see how much wider the reference photos look. This could be lens distortion from their photo, or render distortion from the camera your software is set to emulate. If the sculpt is based off genuine measurements, then we at least know those are right and we can work forward under the assumption that any distortion is camera related. If you get my meaning.

Hey, Welcome! I think this is coming along great. Now that you're here though, I hope you don't mind some rigorous critiques. You are my only hope for a close as possible to screen accurate Scout trooper helmet. I also have some ideas how this can be made to 3D print easier and for some quality of life suggestions as well. As mentioned @MrPoopie modelled up some 3M bolts, but in case you wanted to handle all the sculpting yourself, here are some reference photos. Note: Tiny Hole is 1.62mm Dip in centre is roughly 0.74 deep It has a seam line that goes across the face and back, but I'm not sure if they consider that with adding around here.

Cool! I would like to see it. I have the parts printing right now, so I'll see what happens. Hopefully it works and keeps it open/closed, but worst case it should still keep it from rotating too much. Since you've had success, I have hopes it should work.

Okay, so I had a chance to contemplate this a bit. I was attempting to figure out how to combine the rotation limitations with some mechanic to keep it open/closed. I was working on a NASA space helmet project and to keep the visors up they use a rolling peg idea. Basically, as the visor comes up, a rounded section "skips" over a rolling peg, locking it in place. You can see in the design below, there are four pegs. Originally I had these hard modelled into the the part, but I was concerned that over time the plastic would wear itself down and it would no longer hold. This isn't a big deal for the centre peg, but because the larger part needs to be secured to the helmet, it would be a pain to replace. So, I opted to make the little pegs removable. This way they could be replaced with more PLA, resin or metal versions when they wear down. The question of course is whether it will be enough to hold the weight of the visor/mask/electronics? *shrug* The hole in the centre is for an M2 screw that holds a cap on the end. This keeps the pins in place and keeps hair, cords, and whatever else caught. When the small pegs or main peg needs to be replaced, the cap can be removed. Now. Here is my biggest issue. I am not a huge fan of glue connections. The last thing I need to do is make the back conform to the curves inside the helmet. While this will assure it fits nice and has logs of surface area, I am concerned that the torque on these parts will twist them off. Ideally I would have a few screws that would go into the helmet and secured with some heat push threads, but there just isn't room. So, the only real options are to hope glue holds, or build a larger base that can accommodate a mechanical connection such as screws. The issue is that this part then gets larger and heavier. I am in the process of modelling some internal components such as air vents, greeblies, battery/fan/electronics mounts, etc. So, this could in theory hold these in place with all those components, but for those who aren't interested in all that, it seems like a lot to put into a helmet just to mount this. Any thoughts you guys have would be greatly appreciated. I realize this is such an overkill project, but aside from just remodelling the helmet and reprinting it, this is the best I can come up with. Of course it still needs to be tested to see if it can even be realistically printed.