Toothdoc

I think this is great advice. I’ve been looking at purchasing a rubber DLT as well. I have two of the Hellhounds Props E-11 blasters, and would love to see a DLT in the same material and finish. My texts to Daniel a while back reveal he had been in the process of developing a DLT, but I never could get him to commit to saying he had them where he could produce one for sale and deliver it. I assume that project had stalled and still isn’t ready despite his other issues of developing and delivering blasters. I got a nice 3D printer, a PRUSA 3+ and love it! I will have to warn you that it DOES become almost another hobby all in itself and isn’t like buying an Epson paper printer for your computer, plugging it in and printing out documents! It’s fidgety and requires your attention and patience as you get over the learning curve. I was able to print out a nice DLT-19X from files on Thingyverse and several Imperial scout blasters. The DLT is impressive and quite big and obviously requires multiple print pieces that you assemble and fill in lines and etc. It’s just not that easy and requires a good amount of work and hours to get right. If you want one REALLY bad, get a printer and get busy! Otherwise, be patient and have a small fortune in cash ready to go at the drop of a hat for something else to come along. Best of luck on your quest trooper! I’d be happy to post some photos of my DLT-19X work if you’re interested. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great meeting as always! Have attended three of these with questions and everyone is very helpful! Appreciate the super mentoring! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have an SC helmet that I'm finishing up and have just applied the vinyl decals. The "fishhook" and the ones in the back (the vertical black "vent" lines) are really prone to handling more and have me a little concerned. These look like they are stuck pretty well, but have a definite "edginess" around their periphery. I can see these snagging on a helmet bag or possibly coming off or loose on a troop outing. Have any of you tried using some gloss decal set, a clear coat overspray or a clear nail polish to help "SET" them in place and protect them from coming off? I just feel like these could be protected a little better. I haven't needed to paint the helmet at all and it's still the native, glossy plastic. Thanks!

Yes, they are. My only gripe is that he can be pretty slow and somewhat forgetful about things. No beef about the product though! Beautiful work!

I’ll send you some photos of my E-11 blasters. Probably won’t be able to until Friday though. I’m very busy at the office. I happened to be able to afford two. One ANH version, the other an ESB E-11 variant. Both are very sweet!

I was wondering what my name said... tried to look around for a setting or something, but didn’t see anything. Yeah, we need an intro or a name tag or something. Some guys, like Mickey are just famous already and basically celebrities.

Once again, thank you VERY much to the Pathfinders leadership for hosting and generously giving of your time to help out us rookie troopers. I’m starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel on my SC build and am looking forward to my basic submission. Strong fellowship here, boys and girls!

Question: Im building a 3D print, but would prefer a resin or even better, rubber casting. Just received a Hellhounds E-11 and I am in love with that thing! What about possibilities of a 19 to 19X conversion by simply removable scope and bipod? Could double for TB-HWT-TD and TK hero use! Indexed with Rare earth magnets?

How have you guys attached your chinstrap to your helmet? I’ve tried doing so to the visor bolt and it’s just not at quite the right angle, too forward. Any other recommendations? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I'm in the process of building my scout and the last one was VERY helpful! It was nice to put some faces with some names and ask questions in real time. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for any and all rookie scout builders!

Was this ever resolved? 19X sling and type?

Corey, might you be willing to post some pictures of your cod piece with a ruler in several areas so we might get a better idea on how to reproduce it? Also, how long is your flak vest? I assume it comes down to about your navel?

So for you veteran scouts that have plenty of deployment trooping hours, do you find the cummerbund is somewhat flimsy and tends to scrunch up vertically at all? What I mean is, if you use your pouches to put your wallet, cell phone, cards, keys, etc. in, do you find that the weight of those items want to collapse your bund somewhat. I’m about to start constructing my cummerbund and thought that maybe a double layer of canvas (duck cloth) might help give it some needed support and help keep its shape better. I envision putting a 9” width double layer of duck cloth, then a double layer of thin poly batting and then the outer polished cotton on the outside and sew it all up like that. Would give some substance to those who choose to attach their canvas pouches with Velcro. I realize that some guys attach Velcro to the back of the bund to stick to their flak vest or flight suit for an option... Overkill or reasonable design?

I have a question based on the pattern above. I didn’t notice it until I had my boxes pretty much assembled. In the pattern drawing for the outer flap (at right) it has the width at 5 1/2”, unlike the other corresponding dimension of the box width at 5”. I understand that there may be some width “fudge factor” built in so that construction takes in to account to cover the entire soft box top, but I have a 1/2” left over! So what do we do with the excess?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I also see some of you have affixed the bottom of the tank with a single screw. Is this Level 2 compliant? I’d rather do this with a screw and have a “false” strap look than a cheesy strap on tank, even though that’s what screen accuracy dictates. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here you can see the bowing up in the middle and how it would effect the sides by putting tension on them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have a question regarding mounting the tank top to the SC Armor tank back piece. Are you guys gluing the top detail piece down to the top of the tank or just using a single rivet to hold it there? When I have my tank pushed down onto the back piece, that top area bows up significantly and if glued down all over, I’m afraid the cast resin piece is going to flex and break. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ah! Now that you show those photos, I can see a faint 1/2” strap slot area molded into the chin cup itself. Makes sense now. Thanks again!

Does anyone have any comments on the SC helmet chin cup? How is this supposed to work? Do you just attach some Velcro to an elastic strap on both sides and then on both sides of your helmet? I was thinking it maybe was glued on to the bottom inside aspect of the helmet face somehow, but that doesn’t seem right...

Enjoyed this VERY much! Thank you all for your time and expertise. Very friendly environment! Look forward to the next opportunity...

Sweet...How nice! Never really done this before. is it just a live chat or a video thing like a Zoom meeting. If we have questions, should we have pics all ready to upload or does it support more of a live photo snap/video and go? (if that makes sense, LOL!)

What an excellent build thread! Nice job, Mike! It’s so great to have mentors like these guys helping along the way. Good luck, Brother!

And another clarification while I have my paintbrush out, the rectangle box on the front chest armor is supposed to be PAINTED on and not a decal, correct? That’s how I read the CRL. If so, I’m planning on just using the same gloss gray paint I painted my TK TRAPS and TEARS with. Surely the Empire has standards that cross over... Awaiting your recommendations, 🙂

Well, then...Can’t argue with the screen version! Thanks, Chopper!

I just did this last night and "eyeballed it" from that same photo. I think I got it a bit too high at first, but adjusted it down a bit and it looks better. My black strips are 1/8" wide and the four "rank bars" are 1/4" wide. The photo on the CRL appears as though that trooper chose to use 1/8" strips and doubled them up for the rank bars, so that's what led me to use the 1/4" width. Sound about right? ON the tank top detail piece, does the red stripe need to be on the top AND down the sides of the switch handle? I cut my piece short and just went with the top. Also, can that stripe be painted on??