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I'd prefer not to release my .stl files out into the wild. Unfortunately, these days, there just seems to be too many that will take advantage and try to produce and sell parts using others' files.

Sounds good! I'll run the numbers and see what costs would be for the various options.

Thanks, @Navajo Bro for the kind words! Here's a photo of the finished bar before weathering: I'm not sure if there is still much community interest in these, but I may consider offering the 3 printed parts (raw), a kit to make the full bar, or maybe even fully built bars. During my research, I never really saw any others for sale online that look this screen accurate.

That's looking GREAT! Becomingbobafett.com is my site. Glad to hear that it's a helpful resource for other trooper builds. Keep up the awesome work!

Hey Troopers, Sorry to dredge up this old topic, but I've finally gotten around to assembling my scout bag with the parts I picked up back when it was shown in the first season of the Mandalorian. I've started with the button/rank bar thing, and have done a lot of research to try and make it look like the screen shot images. Looking at the red buttons and the white block in the center, it just never looked quite right, to me, to just glue them on because there clearly appears to be some sort of black "base" for the red buttons and the white block looks to be roughly the same size/height as the red buttons. I did a bit of measuring of screen shots, then created some parts in 3d Builder. After a bit of trial and error, I was finally able to print these: I also found a galvanized nail that has a head about the right size (it may be "slightly" bigger than it should be, but it's what I had on hand) to make the "dot" in the center of the white block. When the parts are together, it looks like: And, here's how they look after they've had the print lines filled and have been painted: To get the above proportions, the aluminum bar came out to be 106mm long (I'm also using the 1/8" thick bar, rather than the 1/16"). I know the previous consensus was it should be about 90mm, but with these button bases and white block, there was just not enough space between them as seen in the screen shots. Here's a rough comparison, next to a screen shot: Hope this helps add to the discussion!

If you wear a size 11, I have a pair of Kingshow M1366 (with the single wheat color sole) that I've been meaning to post up for sale. I started carving the pattern into the soles but got discouraged because it was taking me forever. So, I only got about halfway finished on one boot before I gave up and just went with Crowprops boots.

You're welcome! My print bed isn't very big, so I had to print the chest and back armor in 4 pieces, each. I then used super glue to put it all together and then also welded the seams. For the chest piece, the small reinforcement part that runs down the center didn't seem to hold up and was allowing it to flex to the point it was cracking. I used some metal strapping and JB Weld to reinforce that area better. Now, it doesn't flex at all. Welding isn't difficult. It's just puts off toxic fumes, especially if you weld a joint that's been super glued (Try to do it in a place with good ventilation, or wear a respirator). I also learned that embedding metal staples or cut up pieces of paper clips bent at right angles to bridge the weld also helps strengthen it. You just use the soldering iron to press on the metal bits until it heats up enough to sink into the plastic. It's a bit more work to smooth the seams, but if done right, your welds won't come apart. I'd also suggest practicing on some scrap plastic first until you get the hang of it. The soldering iron will melt the PETG really fast, and if you leave it in one place too long, it can cause deforming of your part(s).

Hey Nick, I printed all of my armor in PETG, and then painted it with Rustoleum American Accents gloss white. It wet sands nicely between coats so that you can get a really smooth final finish: Just make sure you sand/fill all of the print lines before you do the final paint. The high gloss will show everything. 😒 Looks like you're doing a great job, so far. Keep up the good work! 👍👍

Thank you for the guidance, @Chopper! I will follow that advice.

Hey all! I began working on my ROTJ Scout Trooper build way back in 2019. Things were moving along pretty well, and then COVID happened, and I kinda lost interest for a while because getting together and trooping just wasn't happening. When COVID hit, I had pretty much completed all of the armor parts, and was just ready to start working on the soft parts. Fast forward to 2022... At the beginning of this year, I had made myself a tentative plan to try and get everything completed by May the 4th, so that I could wear it to our local comic book shop's big Star Wars day celebration. As usual, life got in the way, and that date came and went. So, I set a new date... Halloween. This time, I stuck with it, and just went down the list working on each part. From the beginning, I've been building everything using the Lancer standards (even though I haven't really decided if I'll try for that level, just yet). It went down to the wire, on Halloween afternoon, and I "finished" my build at about 4:30 pm. I say "finished" but actually mean that I had a costume that was "wearable". I didn't get to actually finish adding all of the much needed Velcro, etc., to help keep things in place, but all of the parts were "there". I suited up for the very first time, and was amazed at how comfortable the costume is. While I still need to add Velcro to keep certain parts in place, I was very happy overall. Here's a pic that was taken: As you can see, things are all over the place, but now I just need to go back in and do some fine tuning. Spending the entire evening walking around, I have a MUCH better idea of what needs to be done where. The day after Halloween, I came down with Influenza A, and haven't really feel like doing anything. But, I'm now beginning to feel better and I'm ready to get back to work finalizing the last bits. After finishing up all of the fitting issues, and "dirtying things up" I guess my next step is to contact my local 501st chapter to see about getting accepted as a member? I see that you're supposed to fill out an application, but I wasn't real sure if you're suppose to submit photos with it, or wait for them to request them, or what? I want to do this as smoothly as possible, so any advice from the experts here would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all, in advance, and I really look forward to becoming part of THE best group in the 501st!

Perfect! This exactly the confirmation I needed.

I don't mean to hijack this thread, but I just received my Crowprops short boots, and I want to start working on them. I'm a bit confused on one thing... Originally, I bought the Kingshow boots from Amazon and started with cutting the notches in the soles, but I just wasn't happy with the way they were turning out. I also bought the white marine vinyl. Can I use the white vinyl like I was going to do on the Kingshow to cover the entire boot (including the leather front), or is the normal process to use white leather for the tall part, front strip, and dog bone?

I agree with what @AradunFF stated, above. Your spray distance seems too far away. Maybe try starting at 12 inches away, and since you're just testing, move in or out as you are spraying until you see the paint hitting the surface in a nice uniform layer. When you see that, you've found the "sweet spot" and your paint should look nice and smooth when dry. I'm not sure if your temp is a factor, but here in Iowa, I find my paint sprays better if I let it sit in a bucket of hot water (from the tap) for a few minutes. Doing this, it seems to help the paint mix better when you shake it, and it seems to flow smoother when sprayed (no chunky stuff). Hope that helps.

Keep up the great work! I'm just north of you, in Sioux City. I'm currently about half way through my build. Maybe we'll troop together in the future!

No, the edges aren't turned under; the stitch just runs right along the edge.

LOTS of filler primer and spot putty. Plus wet sanding, wet sanding, wet sanding, and more wet sanding.

Not sure if this will help, but I just finished doing this, myself. The following entries document the thigh patch installation: https://becomingbobafett.com/scout-trooper-flight-suit-modding-continued-4/ https://becomingbobafett.com/scout-trooper-flight-suit-modding-continued-5/ https://becomingbobafett.com/scout-trooper-flight-suit-modding-continued-6/

Awesome to see another DIYer scout! I ordered the exact same gloves from Amazon. I've already done some deconstructing to try and figure out what will be needed to get them up to screen accurate status. If you're interested in seeing the process, I've documented it on my build site: https://becomingbobafett.com/category/side-projects/scout-trooper/soft-parts/gloves/ I've also printed out the @MrPoopie armor set, and it's top notch! Keep up the great work, and I look forward to following your progress!

I can do that, as well. Thx!

My 3D printed helmet has the ear cutouts as actual smooth "vents" rather than the rough cut openings that the vac-formed kits have. I originally painted the inside of the helmet black, but masked off the ear vents, thinking that the "darkness" created in the recess would suffice. However, the more I look at it, I'm thinking that it's just not "black" enough as compared to images of the screen used helmets. So, I did a quick mock up (using black tape) of what the vents would look like if I were to paint them. In my opinion, I think they would probably look a lot better painted, but I'd like to get opinions from the experts as to whether painting them would be advised, or not. This is how it looks unpainted: And, here's how it would look if painted: Thank you, in advance!

The thin (9th) "indent" could very well be due to the seam. It appears that since the seam runs through that area, they weren't very consistent on how they filled it in. This image is a screen-cap of the scout that tried to capture Leia. There's a very thin, faint line. Most likely due to the seam.

I'm currently working on modding my 3D printed helmet to the screen used helmet images. Looking at the rear "indents" in this image, the 8th one (closest to the center of the back) appears to be a bit wider than the other 7. I did a quick look through the scout scenes in ROTJ but could never find one that had the larger, 8th, "indent" like the above image. However, I did see a few that had a 9th "indent" that was really thin (almost nonexistent). My main question is, if I mod my "indent" pattern to match the above image, will I have to take it back to the 8 uniform "indents" if I decide to try for lancer level later on?

I'm originally from NW Houston, as well. Nice to reconnect with some fellow scout fans from the same area!

I normally use brims. Room temp could very well be a factor, as well. My printer is right next to a window, and during the time I was experiencing the lifting, it was REALLY cold out (and, the lifting occurred nearest the window). When I switched over to rafts for the problem parts, I also put up a piece of cardboard to act as a "block" between the printer and the window. It did seem to help.

When I used to print with PLA, I rarely had any lifting issues. I'm thinking it's mainly due to my inexperience with PETG, and still working on dialing in the right heat settings for the initial layers and heated bed temp. I'm using an A8 with a .4mm nozzle. After a few failed prints, I finally had to resort to using the "raft" adhesion setting. It worked a lot better, but it was still trying to lift slightly by the end of the print.