DontDissTheFett

Thank you, I really appreciate that! Had a few missteps in the beginning but slowly but surely it’s coming together! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh my, no it does not. I tend to like whatever my helmet is better than that Kropserkel. Thank you for pointing that out! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I bought the helmet off a member of the Replica Prop Forum a few years ago. He said it was a Kropserkel and that he assembled and painted himself as a display piece. I didn’t really have any reason to doubt him because I didn’t know about different helmets so I just assumed that’s what it was. It’s construction is all abs, just like the SC kit If that makes a difference. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok, time for a bit of an update.. I tried several times to get a good white circle painted on my tank topper but I just wasn’t happy with it so I borrowed my girlfriend’s daughter’s Cricut and made a half inch circle vinyl decal and it fit perfectly. With that out of tbd way I wanted to tackle the belt. After some practice I was able to sew some white velcro tbd 2 pieces of nylon webbing, then glued it to the plastic belt, cut some plastic strips and riveted it in. I was actually quite proud of myself because I’ve never used a sewing machine before. With the belt together, I started fitting the drop boxes and for that I figured I needed to have the racing suit on and I figured while I had that on I’d go ahead and try everything on so far. I had my girlfriend pin the straps in the back just to try to get an idea of placement. Looking at it I see I forgot the rear buckles so I guess that changes the placement a bit.. . How’s it looking so far? I still need to: -attach the drop boxes -Sew my shoulder bridge covers -Put elastic in the shoulder bells to keep them tighter on my arms -Roll the shoulders forward a little -Side strapping -Put on the holster -Fix the pouches on the cummerbund Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And with the fine touch help of my mini Dremel, a thin cut off, and my trusty set of needle files I was able to get the slots cut in my belt and test hooking up the strapping and boxes. I didn’t have enough 2” webbing to do the belt the way I wanted so I ordered some from strapworks, should have Thst in a few days. While I wait I’m going to get the returns on tbd tops of my boxes removed, sew my bridge cover, and clean up the slight return edge on top of the belt. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Test fit with the shoulder bells. I haven’t put the retaining elastic in yet so they’re a little out of whack sitting too far back but I think I’m happy with the progress so far. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They are sewed. I wish I would have noticed when I first received it; I was just trying to acquire all the soft pieces while was waiting for my armor to arrive and didn’t examine it like I should have. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you [emoji120] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok so I decided to take a break from the cutting for the night and start working on putting the front and back together, and getting the shoulder bells attached. I put the front and back together with a 3” strip of loop side Velcro. I was “thinking” that for more stability there I could affix a matching piece of hook side, then on its sticky back affix and loop facing down. That would give more structure to the joint area, still have fuzzy Velcro on my shoulders, and still allow me to attach my anchor for the bells. Has anyone done that before? My plan is to use a zip tie anchor with Velcro attached to its bottom and affix it on the bridge while keeping it completely secure (I used industrial Velcro) and allowing me to adjust it. Here are the shoulder bells drying, I still need to put the retaining elastic on though. My 1x1 anchor with industrial velcro attached My wampa wear gloves came in so I decided to go ahead and try on everything I had ready so far. Please excuse the placement. All the arm pieces are adjustable with Velcro except the biceps and wouldn’t you just know it those are the things that are loose lol. I’ll be readjusting those. I also noticed they my front pouches are uneven; one is 1 7/8 and the other is about 2 1/4 from the top edge. I could be wrong but I think I see the pouches on the crl model and the scout pics on scoutopdia as being a bit uneven. Is this actually a problem or do I need to try and fix it?

Thank you, Chopper. I’ve been going back and forth with scoutopedia but admittedly I’m having a little trouble getting used to the difference of this build versus the TK, where there were exact measurements for everything. I understand why here there are not but it’s taking a little bit to jolt my mind into a different mode. I guess I want to be precise as possible but this build isn’t about exact precision. I appreciate your help as always. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s great, thank you! Did you split the scope in half by any chance too? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That blaster came out great! I’d like to slice it up the same way you did because it looks like you had a really clean print and I am not a fan of supports either. Any suggestions Thst you can share of any best practices to do it and situate them? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you, that’s helpful! It’s a little difficult to see exactly because of the watermark. It actually looks like the left side is on the horizontal surface and the right is on the vertical. Is the cut towards the back on the horizontal surface, or would you say it’s the corner of the right angle and widened so it takes up a part of each surface? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

One other question about the slots on the belt- Do they go on the vertical surface (marked in green) or the horizontal surface (marked in red)? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good advice, thank you [emoji120] Well I went to Home Depot after work and picked up a big multi pack box full of different bit for the Dremel and i came across a little tiny Dremel apparently marketed for hobbyists. Seeing Thst mine is a “regular-sized” one I figured it might be a bit easier to control and lend itself to a lot of uses where a more fine touch might be needed. I used the little Dremel with a sanding drum and tried to take down the returns on the SC drop boxes. Does the entire edge need to come off, or can a small “lip” be left over? Original: Now onto the slots: I used a very thin cutting wheel first on some scrap and felt that I could control it well enough so I went in tbd end for a thicker wheel just to cut down on filing time to enlarge the slots. Once I cut the slot I used a few needle files to clean it up. I did make a mistake on one side and cut the slot a little past the indented area. I’m not sure that it matters but it does kind of bother me. Is this going to be a problem? I can clean this slot of with more filing but I definitely should have used the thinner wheel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk