MJD-X303

Thanks for the replies guys. Yes, my mistake was measuring the chest/back assembly while wearing a t-shirt, not the flight suit and cummberbund. It was printed at 100% size, so upscaling it should be fairly easy. My friend and I will do a proper measuring this weekend in preparation for the reprint. @Retrofire there are slight (1-2mm deep I think) indents on the tank greeblie where the red line and white dot are. According to my GML they should be flat. Since I'm reprinting the back and tank anyway, I can fill them in with putty and filler primer, so it's not that big a deal. But I figured I'd ask if there are alternate STLs out there so I wouldn't have to. @MrPoopie I was surprised I got dinged for the depressions too, since I saw the same thing on other people's builds. But if the GML wants them gone, I guess I get rid of them. How much thinner should I make the butt flap, percentage wise? Also, what do you guys think of the spacing of the hip box straps at the rear of the belt (where the thermal detonator is). Are they too far apart, or are they fine where they are? Since I have to redo the hip box straps anyway, I can move them if I have to. I'll see if the seamstress I'm getting to alter my flight suit riding pads can also stiffen up the white crotch pad too, using your tutorial example. Expect more questions as I go.

More detail shots:

Hello troopers. A few weeks ago I submitted my TB Scout costume for level 1 (basic) approval by the 501st Canadian Garrison. Sadly, I was rejected for a number of inconsistencies. Here's the fix list the local GML sent me: FLIGHTSUIT - Riding patches extend way too far up. They should only extend a bit past the crotch and not all the way up to the waist. - The same can be said of the elastic, they are situated too far down on your leg. And should ideally be at the halfway mark on your thigh. Make sure not to sew it too tight or too lose. CHEST AND BACK ARMOUR - Currently the biggest issue right now, is the size of the chest and back armour in relation to you. If it is a 3d-print I would highly suggest 5-10% which would solve the issue of the dead space between your armour and your cumberbund. - The webbing connecting the chest and back armour should be white cotton webbing (1.5 inches) TANK TOPPER GREEBLIE - From what I can see there seems to be indents for the red strip and the white circle. That area shouldn't be indented and rather flat with the red and white circle painted over top - While this is not for basic I would highly encourage the metal rivet on the top be centered on the greebie. CUMBERBUND - Your cummerbund will clear basic approval, however I would suggest later down the road to revise it if you wanted to go for Lancer (level 2) BELT AND DETONATOR - From what I can see from the drop box clips the webbing does not actually get fed through the end and back out but rather fed through both openings. The clips are just for show as they were not used with the screen used ones. BOOTS - From what I can see the boot sole does not appear to be tan and instead seems to be two different colours. This will have to be fixed since the CRL states "The soles of the boot are tan". Quickest and cheapest option would be to paint the sole of the shoe tan. - The pipping of the boot also looks a bit wide, it should be 1/2 inch. So, I'll be definitely be upscaling and reprinting the chest and back pieces as she recommended. Does anyone have a better, 501st approve STL I can use to remake them? For this build I used the files created by Mr. Poopie before he took them down. I'll also be remaking the boots with better quality, properly tan coloured soles, and reworking the rigging connecting the hip boxes to the belt. Anything else stick out to you guys I need to work on before I resubmit for basic 501st approval?