Aradun

Wickedly cool! Love it!

@Chopper do you this info. My kit is packed away at the moment. Won’t be trooping until April.

Correct. The straps should be in between. But use the marks indicated by Chopper even though you raised the knee armor slightly. In other words, you don’t need to raise the straps higher because you adjusted the knee armor higher. Chopper’s placement is the ideal spot.

Even with you raising your knee armor slightly, you should still move the thigh straps to where Chopper indicated in the photo above.

I used E6000 and have had no issues with the bond. Not sure if that’s available in China or what the equivalent would be if it isn’t. I don’t think CA glue would hold over time.

Here’s how I did mine: The magnets in the scope are recessed flush. The magnets on the DLT are glued to the surface.

Sweet!

Correct.

So, your patches are the back suede or faux suede area on the flight suit. Their current placement is fine. It’s okay if the patches extend a little underneath the knee armor. The CRL states that they end above the knee, meaning your physical knee, NOT your knee armor. As for the curve, the CRL doesn’t specify that the curve of the patches needs to match the curve of the cod piece. Your bund, belt, and cod have room to come up an inch or two. Once you dial in the placement of the bund, belt, and cod everything else will fall into place. You just need to round the hard corners of the patches as indicated above. If you look through Gloria’s thread, you’ll see a post from Chopper on April 20 with a green line indicating where the corner should be rounded. Gloria was using chalk to mock up the patches so she could make a pattern. The elastic straps merely need to be moved up so that they sit half way between the top of the knee armor and your drop boxes. The butt flap in the back just needs to be removed and raised to where Chopper indicated in the photo. That’s it. Easy fixes. I hope that I’ve cleared things up for you. If not let me know. Where here to help!

These are easy fixes Nes. Any seamstress will be able to make these adjustments and it should cost you far less than a new suit. For the riding patches you just want to round those hard corners. Give your seamstress a copy of the CRL and show her the pictures in the CRL so she can visualize what needs to be done. You’re very close to the finish line. Keep up the great work!

It’s been several years since I did mine, but I just gave the inner lens area a light sanding to remove the burrs, and then primed and painted it. I then inserted a red translucent acrylic lens which obscured any rough or unsightly areas. Same for the back end of the scope. If you’re not planning on putting a lens in then reprinting with a light curing method as you described would be the way to go.

That’s correct.

Nice work on the assembly. Looks great! As for the chin strap, it’s not required for L1 and is only optional for L2. That being said, I do have one. Most scouts in my garrison have one, simply because most vendors provide it with their kits. The nice thing about is that it’s another feature, along with any padding or helmet liner you install in the bucket, that helps to keep the bucket from shifting.

Feel free to post up a pic and we can look them over.

I’ll be honest. Most people who do their own boots, just sketch out the cut outs on their boot soles and post photos here for feedback. Rarely do we have to tell them to make any major mods to their layout. Don’t over think it. It’s way easier than you might think. The hardest part nowadays seems to be finds boots that have solid wheat colored soles and are not two tone.