FN1313

So for my magnet I sanded down the circle on the left size of the blast grip a bit and then glued in a circular shaped magnet to that spot. Once it was secure I then set it in the holster and glued the connecting magnet on the inside area of the holster. Using the blaster to hold it in place while it adhered.

Knees As of right now I've worked the upper strapping of the knees with the rivets. I need to still cut the slots for the lower 1 inch straps, but I will do that going forward as I get access to a sewing machine so I can add the velcro to hold the straps in place. Basically following the similar process before with the tank piece I cut a predetermined length of 1/2" black elastic. I measured while wearing jeans (as they are roughly the same if not a little more thick than the undersuit). I want the straps secure, but not too tight or too loose. Then I added a little more on each end (about 1/2") to my lengths so I could fold it over for added support. I cut the holes through for the rivets and inserted the rivet through the knee location and the strapping as such: Then as you know, tighten and snap the rivet in place: Same process on the other side to be continued... similar sorts of strapping on knees like arms, but I did the rivets through the upper 1/2 inch straps and Velcro on the lower 1 inch straps i then covered the interior rivet piece with a slice of industrial velcro as I found the river doesn’t hold the strap perfectly.

Arms Forearms here are pics of the forearms. I’ve got the 1 inch strapping for them. You’ll see I’ve added velcro to each end of the strapping and used it to attach to an inner strip of industrial strength velcro. I’ve also got some Velcro that I use to hold it in place on my flight suit. Biceps similar methods to the forearms just using 2 inch strapping instead. Note the marking of what is left and right. This does matter because the little circles on the t bits should face forward.

Thermal detonator alright so for the TD and working to get it to lancer I had to paint the provided tube to a more medium grey. The best stuff I found was this granite color rustoleum at least it looked like a good fit. here’s some side by side to show a little bit the difference. From there I cut out the two holes for the zip tie and used the devcon to glue the greeblies and end caps on. originally I did not have the right clips and paint would wear off so I ordered the black clips from somewhere In China, here’s the now updated TD finished I did bend open the clips to a point before installing so they were easier to just slide over the belt without excessive force as well.

Got notified of my armor being approved. It's not yet updated on webpages it seems, but then again there's a big convention in SLC this weekend so they might be busy with such. Now to get to doing the minor mods and pushing up for Lancer within the month.

Knowing my GMLs I likely won't, Especially where I had that picture from my first suit up that shows it was correctly oriented prior. And knowing that it's a matter of just reorienting. They'd be more worried if it was a part that was something that couldn't just be flipped around. So should be good as is. Beyond that, any further thoughts for Level 2? I know the TD clips need to be replaced by the black ones (should be here in the next few weeks) I may have to raise my pouches a bit. Volara foam the cod piece so it is less squishy. I did make sure the drop boxes hang 1 inch below the belt. I think from what I see maybe that just needs to sit a little higher on the sides. I have velcro to hold it in place, so it's just a matter of raising it higher on the velcro. Figured I'd get some thoughts prior to that. Assuming that all the widths of strapping etc are correct (I have measured and purchased the right straps for all of those as is so I doubt that will be a problem when I submit)

Yeah luckily since the clips are just screwed in basically and not glued tight (like I intend to do later) it's a simple twist them the right direction. Thanks for the catch though. Helps me reach out to my GMLs so they can be made aware of this when considering and know it's already fixed/fixable

Ahh crap, haha my family member put it on upside down. The clips actually aren't solid in place and rotate at this time (because I"m switching them out later, so that's a simple change of rotating it currently.) I will let my GML know that is the case. If you look at my earlier pictures you'll see it was on right at that time.

Alright, here's the photos I've submitted for basic approval. I will get more detailed photos of the build that I will add to my WIP sections, but I was on a time crunch and needed to get things done and submitted to try to be ready for an event on Saturday. And the action shot of course: I'm hoping these should work for basic approval. I have the black TD clips on order to replace the silver ones as well as some Volara foam to back the codpiece for added protection from Ewok sticks.

First test fitting pics. I've noted some adjustments I need to make and have marked them as well as what I need to do. I don't thing it's too far off though. I'm going to make these adjustments today and then take approval pics. Probably will have to wait a week for Lancer pics as I'm waiting on the Volara foam and the correct black belt clips.

Shoulders I followed this thread here for my shoulder build process as I've noticed it seems to be the primary source of most Lancer builds. Here are my shoulders prior to attaching to the armor. The little white ABS pieces below were my original plan, but I will be strapping the elastic through the middle ziptie bridge instead. I haven't attached the elastic yet as I need to size it to my arms with the suit and flak vest on. Now in the guide above it recommends 1.5 inches of length from the point of the shoulder to the tip of the ziptie. I actually increased that to 2 1/8 inches for mine as I have much broader shoulders. And it looked funny otherwise. So obviously I'd say start with more length and trim it as you go until you've got a good appearance. Here's my test fit of the shoulders attached to the armor and how the 2 1/8 inch gave me the space to look okay. I still do not have the strapping complete so the parts do sit loose, but as I get that done it will start getting the parts fitting more appropriately overall.

Doing some fiberglass might also help as an idea. It’s been great for me on armor parts for kits I’ve had that have high stress spots. It’s not flexible, but thankfully this is a spot you don’t need flexing much.

Boot/Holster Now to add the holster to the boot. First I wanted to be sure that I could actually have my blaster sit in without having it fall out or wobble around. I needed an option to do this but still be able to remove my blaster as well without having to cut anything or do anything drastic. That's where my good friends magnets come in. First here's my blaster in pieces, this one I got off Etsy from PremierProps, I have another order from 3DpropsNL, but that's going to have electronics and isn't Lancer level, still fun and I want it. But this one I wanted to use to get with my Lancer goals. Some assembly, I used Devcon Plastic Welder on all parts, and to finalize after and remove the print line look I coated it with XTC-3D. What this does is it will coat the exterior with a Resin like material that doesn't melt or warp the plastic like some resins might. It took a good 24 hours for the XTC-3D to cure to a solid and not tacky form. I figured the magnets I had were perfect size and shape to go here (picture was taken after implementation) which perfectly aligns with the holster where it's a little flat. As such I have replaced that spot with a magnet put in place with Devcon Plastic Welder. Here's the pictures post paint. I will need to get more pictures HERE (WIP) to show the barrel and scope are filled and not hollow or have crosshairs. The studio creations holster came already fastened together so I didn't have to do any added work to get it connected, but I did have to do some trimming. To keep the blaster in place with magnets I put it in the holster and then put the receiving end of the magnet on the inside of the holster with Devcon plastic welder. I let that sit for a few hours to cure in place before removing the blaster. It holds like a boss and worked out really well. 4 of 5 Dentists would recommend. The fifth was the only known human run over by a speeder bike during the battle of Endor. All other casualties were trees. I've seen in pretty much all the photos and things I've looked at the edges are rounded, not sharp, so I rounded them with an exacto blade. Plus I think it will cause less wear on the boot where those corners were. Then drilled holes in each corner. I started with the top front hole and marked where on the boot to put the rivet through. I then put the extra strip of ABS that came with the holster to hold and support the holster on the top in place and marked where that hole should be and drilled in that hole. With that rivet in place, I then matched up the top rear rivet and drilled holes through the holster and support strap interior and riveted there. The bottom two holes did not come with a support strip, as such I used extra ABS scrap from the helmet build to be supporting abs on the interior and riveted those in place. And there you go Boot/Holster ready for weathering.

Front/Back Plate Build For the front and back plate I've placed the shoulder bridge pieces together and am holding them together with some industrial strength velcro (the soft end) Currently this is how it looks prior to the additional cover strips and shoulder details added. Alright and the updated additions first here’s some images of the strapping i used some industrial strength velcro on the inside back to hold the straps, but then I sewed the white cotton webbing onto some elastic that I use so it can have some stretch if needed. then the 1 inch elastic to cover the separation in the shoulders you'll see I have one end that is cut with a section so my zip tie for shoulders can hang out. Then I’ve sewn velcro onto the ends to just fold over. Here’s a full internal shot and the outsides

Alright time to start showing some build items. Yes the pictures are in my kitchen. It has better lighting. First I'm going to detail the back plate/tank So first things first. I added the decals to the tank top greeblie and then I sort of used magic and special visual acuity abilities to determine the placement of the greeblie on the tank...(I eyed it and compared to film) I then marked the spot for the rivet (rivet gun and rivets I used) and drilled the hole (1/8" to match the rivet size). After this I attached the tank greeblie with Devcon plastic welder using the rivet in the holes as an anchor point. I let this sit while I worked on other parts of the armor so that I could have the greeblie anchored well with glue before doing the rest of the tank. After it had solidified I then placed it on the back plate. The Studio Creations armor has a nice little lip designed to hold the plate with the rivet on top which is a fantastic design in my opinion. So I marked the spot I needed to drill and drilled another 1/8" hole. (the X spot was a bad initial position so don't go off of that.) I then cut a guess length of 1/2" elastic and using an exacto blade cut a hole into it for the rivet to pass through. I put the rivet through the greeblie, tank, elastic, and the back plate lip. And using the rivet gun, tightened it down until secured and snapped. With this done I needed to place the bottom rivet. I had predetermined the middle location for the hole on the bottom of the tank, so with that I marked where to drill on the back plate and drilled through. Then attached the rivet the same way. And now we have the secured back plate and tank. Finally I added the tank decals I noted in another thread, here, the position of the decals depends on how many are being used. For Lancer status we can use 1, 4, or 6. As my decals provided were thinner in style I figured best to go with the 6 for closer accuracy. They sit just against an imaginary line that would form from the side line if you kept it running up the tank, and are about mid way from the top of the tank and the top horizontal line on the tank.