Chopper

Your flap is bunching b/c it's attached too high. However, the back flap is best adjusted once the bund, belt, and detonator positioning is all set up. Leave it for now and do further adjustments once you have those other parts in place.

The back of your flight suit or vest

The width of the cod is fine for basic. To better affix the cod you can remove the waist elastic and attach some velcro to the back of the cod and some velcro to the flight suit or flak vest.

You will also need to move the thigh straps.

The scope on the DLT is meant to be modeled on the singlepoint scope, which was also used on the holdout blaster. The inner lines aren't from print stepping, they're supposed to be there:

A tailored flight suit will cost around 220 Euro. How much will it cost to do the alterations on your existing suit? If you hadn't already purchased the soft goods, I would tell you to go the tailored route, but you've already invested money in the current gear and it is fixable.

About halfway between your drop boxes and knee armor.

Those side straps need to come up so they're halfway between your drop boxes and your knee armor.

Flak vests are not typically that long. You should get it altered to be shorter in length.

Hi, it looks like you're nearly there. A few refinements -- Can you clarify what this black bit is on the back side? Is that the bottom edge of the flak vest? If so, the bottom of the vest should not be visible underneath the cummerbund. Also on the back side, the butt flap has a large gap between the belt and the start of the flap. There should not be a visible gap there. The flap is already long, but moving it up should shorten it's overall length.

Correct

Looks good

The CRL says: Holster Gloss white or semi-gloss and may be lightly weathered. Attached to the outside of the right boot with 1/8th (3mm) silver-colored rivets. The blaster pistol fits into the holster. The holster must be attached to the outside of the right boot with 1/8th (3mm) silver-colored rivets for basic clearance. Attaching via velcro is not acceptable.

The shape of the sole must be close to what's depicted. Again, many scouts have modded work boots for both L1 and L2. For L2 the cuts should be close to the original, though the cuts do not need to be a 1:1 exact replica of the Sierra Sneaker pattern.

Those look like someone took a riding boot template and tried to make scout boots from it. Those boots could not be adequately modified to pass L1 or L2. Beyond the soles, there's a seam running down the front of the boot shaft, which will not pass. If you only want L1/basic, you can get the KeepTrooping boots. For L1 and L2 you can get a pair of work boots and modify them as per the tutorial here: You can also get boots from CrowProps. Prices for the options will vary, depending on the vendor.