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Erik R

PFD Recruit
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Everything posted by Erik R

  1. Remember that in pics, the picture taker is usually 10 to 15 feet away if not more. If you compare what you see in person to pictures of other people's armor you can easily end up with too little weathering.
  2. That FaceBook link links to something like a 2005 version of FB Looks great though!
  3. Wow, amazing find! That comparison is truly a testament to WW's work, very similar! Planning on making the mods or are you gonna keep them "stock" as a collectible?
  4. Hmm, when I follow that link it just takes me to the BS.N homepage
  5. Ironically, a mic can actually be one of the cheaper components, however. I got a cheap eBay knockoff for $20 and it is incredible!
  6. Thanks all. Yes, it's a zipper. Velcro is messy and has a limited number of uses. A zipper lasts a lot longer and each use looks identical to the last, so it's quicker, too. Afterall, I'm building this costume for me, not the 501st. If I can't join, so be it. Kinda done with costume clubs anyway, they're honestly ridiculous with how much conflict goes on lol But good to know- must look like Velcro to be approved. Zipper looks better to me, but CRLs are CRLs. Again, thanks for the kind words, appreciate it. Side note: Was considering not posting it here, but I did my cummerbund and vest with a zipper too for the same reasons. Plus I generally don't have a handler, a zipper is a lot easier to do alone. Velcro can be a hassle.
  7. Thanks! Here are some slightly less potato pics:
  8. Started off with a super cheap pair of Dexter construction boots from Payless for $16. Used white marine vinyl from Joannes. How'd it turn out? They seem to fit pretty good. Wearing black jeans here, not the suit. Sorry in advance for potato quality. Thanks for looking.
  9. Another kit you might wanna look out for soon is WTF's Scout kit. Looks like it's gonna be crisper than SC.
  10. Haha precisely, I should have worded that better. I'll get a picture up as soon as I can. Ooh, I like that idea! Takes the stress off the velcro and gives the same tightness every time. If I redo my bund, I'll do it this way!
  11. So I've made my cummerbund and thought I had it all well measured but by the time I finished it ended up about and inch shorter than I'd like on the top and about an inch and a half too short on the bottom. So, at this point, I can't use 2 inch velcro! I'm thinking of using a zipper. It would make for a perfect fit. I mean, I'd sew it so the zipper would be invisible, but would this be unapprovable? Even if I were to put some thread lines to give the appearance of having velcro sewn in? I assume Lancer would be out, but maybe not basic approval. If I couldn't join 501st it would be disappointing, but after that first cummerbund I'm game to make another. Had no idea it would go so smoothly. The vest gave me far more grief. Anyway, my real question here is "Would an invisible zipper in place of velcro on the back be okay?" Thanks!
  12. Ugh, that is the worst. Especially for a craft store! Good luck on finding the material though.
  13. Thank a bunch, really appreciate it. Confirmation on on these things is important! Glad it's a 3 day weekend, this'll be a great project!
  14. As the title suggests, I'd like to make my own cummerbund (and pretty much all the other softparts) but I have had particular trouble finding resources on it. There's tutorials abound for flak vests, undersuits, and pouches, but I can find none for bund! In any case, this is fine. I just need to know generally where it starts and stops before I start sewing. From what I've gleaned from here, it seems to start about the nipple line and ends around the waist, or bellybutton. And then the 6 vertical lines in the front center. And it must be made from a heavyweight white material? White denim? Also, do the pouches attach to the bund or the chest armor? This'll be my first bund build, should I sew the cod directly on or make a flak vest and attach it to that? It seems to be the new way of doing things. Also, where should the belt sit? It looks like it should sit where the bottom edge rests on hip bones, right over the navel. Apologies for the barrage of questions! Would like to be 99% sure before moving forward! Thanks!
  15. That's what I used. A dollar can of black plus matte clear coat, then a little dry brushing here and there.
  16. I ended up getting this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Adult-SFI-3-2a-1-Certified-Single-Layer-Racing-Jumpsuit-MEDIUM-BLACK-/162009219375?hash=item25b880812f:g:800AAOSwYlJW4yLC If the size is right it's an awesome suit. Form fitting without losing the aesthetic of the originals. Also has elastic cuffs which is great. Plus, it already has the neck closure.
  17. They're expensive! Aren't WW gloves $60? These are $106!
  18. I think mine was the same file, and they're really just that small lol
  19. I ended up buying it too! I love it, really great suit. The elastic around the back really helps it keep shape, and as Michael said about the cuffs, the elastic there is great too. I'm 6'0", 155 lbs, 40 inch chest. Fits like a glove! The legs could be longer, but I think they're perfect with the Scout's high boots.
  20. Aw geez... I painted mine right up to the inflection point of the snout.
  21. I'm curious too. It says it's made of cotton, but the pics show a bit of sheen. Maybe just lighting.
  22. Wow, looks great! Love the stock.
  23. I like that you made your soft parts yourself, I've always been of the opinion that that's what really makes it yours!
  24. I used the same clear coat, the Rust-o-leum crystal clear, and the finish was not glass smooth. I just wet sanded at 400, then 1000, then used a rubbing compound. I can see myself in the reflection! I used Meguiar's Clear Coat Safe rubbing compound, but if I were to do it again I'd use something designed for deeper scratches. My helmet is incredibly smooth, but if the sun hits it just right you can see the sanding strokes. Meh, adds depth I guess.
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