Zugor

Thanks guys this info helped a lot!

I have a large calf muscle, 17 inches around. When I made my boots to fit the top works but the bottom is too big for the boot, size 14. How do you handle the extra material? Should I make a V shaped stove pipe so it fits at the bottom and the top?

Is there a length on the tubing for the detonator? On this one from the CRL the tubes look to be 4 to 5 inches or close to the length of the body of the TD. However, the CRL doesn't mention any lengths for this part. The hose that came with my SC armor (albeit older kit) are considerably shorter. As seen here. Where can I get this type of tubing so I can get a longer piece? Also the caps that came from SC are convex and not concave, is there a source for those?

It's working great for me! I haven't had my armor reyellow yet and I have it out in the sun quite a bit all winter long. I have done it on several helmets, a bunch of armor pieces like my chest plate and back plate. Nothing appears to be weakened either, it's all still flexible like it has always been. My armor is old FX armor that has some updated(newer) parts from other manufacturers so the process works on old and new plastic.

Hey is my tank topper too big? I have an older SC kit that I am building and I have forgotten where this tank topper came from but from the pictures I have been looking at it looks to big.

There is also a product called adhesion promoter that you spray on after the light sanding mentioned above. That will keep the paint from flaking off. That being said, I tested the hydrogen peroxide method out on new and old armor, old being FX TK armor and there was no damage at all.

Feels the same to me. The plastic seems to be just as pliable as it was before. No sign of oxidation either, the plastic is nice and shiny.

The crème has a 40 percent hydrogen peroxide content so please be careful and wear rubber gloves when handling it. I made the mistake of not wearing gloves while I was turning the parts and got some on my finger tips. My fingers where turning white and had that stinging feeling within minutes. I ran in and washed my hands quickly.

I ordered it through Amazon but I imagine you could find it at any salon type shop. I didn’t think to check with any of the local places and just ordered it.

After 6 hours I brought the parts in and washed them with soapy water. And as you can see there isn’t any yellow left on the parts. none of the decals or paint was affected in any way. Hope this is helpful to other troopers out there.

here are the parts in the sun. I left them out there for about 6 hours. I did occasionally turn them to make sure nothing was in a shadow.

Not sure if this is the correct location for this type of post but here goes. If your armor has yellowed then I have a cheap and easy solution for you. After much research and watching of videos on the subject and testing the solution. I have found that SalonCare 40 crème safely removes the yellowing from your armor. I bought the 32 ounce bottle but you can get a much smaller bottle as I only used about a half ounce for my helmet. and here is the dome Using rubber gloves and a small paint brush. I slathered a layer of crème over the entire helmet and wrapped it with plastic wrap to prevent the solution from evaporating and laid the parts out in the sun.

I think the problem is the 15 inch length with my particular coverall and height just isn't right. I need to put my coveralls on and take some measurements to see what will look right.

Yeah I screwed up something. Going to see if I can put a second set over the top of the others maybe that will fix it.

After looking at some Lancer requests I think I need to redo the patches and take in the straps. Probably should have looked at those pictures before. Oh well.