Greedo

Thanks, Shaun! Friend of mine lent me his airbrush gun and I bought a bottle of Vallejo primer. That's all I used to be honest! Now, during my whole build process I took great care to not take care of my armour, meaning that there'd be a bunch of (real) scratches to begin with. Experimenting with the primer I found that the old true and tested method of spray and wipe gave me a good base-dirtyness. Natural scratches darken and give texture. So then I took to more aggressive methods - sprayed larger areas, let them dry a little and then whipped the parts with a chain saw chain! Seriously, you can get the most random looking, scratches by rubbing, dragging, or whipping a chain on armour, or any to-be-weathered object. Then I attacked it with my nails covered with an old t-shirt. Tada! Then I lightly did the soft bits, might need to do a little more, but I'm happy the way it is. And yeah, what you see on camera vs. what you see with your own eyes is totally different! Happy how it turned out; if I wasn't, it'd be easy to rub off!

Welp, here it goes. Done airbrushed! My logic weathering was that there'd be a lot of scratching on top of the initial dirt/blast marks because of stuff hitting the armor when they're zipping by at ludicrous speeds.

My favouritestest thread ever.

I was hoping for your input, haha. Yeah, after experimenting with rattlecans this morning, I've decided to buy the products you recommended. I need to get this right.

Thanks, everyone. Yeah, that's what I figured. I'm asking around to maybe borrow an airbrush but I'm at the same time experimenting with rattlecans. So what's the consensus? On some of the better pics of the original it appears black and a dark, earthy brown were used. And, again, what about those scratches?

Hi fellow Tree-Dodgers! I'm about to finish my build and am starting to research weathering. I'm striving to get Lancer and to be as prop-accurate as possible. I am, like many before me, very nervous about unleashing spray-paint on my beautiful armour, and since my only previous build was an ESB TK, I've only got experience with the old wet newspaper. Any tricks to get close to the original? I don't have access to airbrush equipment, so is there a way to get there without it? And a specific thing: These black/dark streaks or scratches all over, that I think look really awesome and are what really makes or breaks weathering. How to do them? Black paint on stick and rub over? Thanks!

Hi fellow Tree-Dodgers! I'm about to finish my build and am starting to research weathering. I'm striving to get Lancer and to be as prop-accurate as possible. I am, like many before me, very nervous about unleashing spray-paint on my beautiful armour, and since my only previous build was an ESB TK, I've only got experience with the old wet newspaper. Any tricks to get close to the original? I don't have access to airbrush equipment, so is there a way to get there without it? Thanks!

Hahaha, yeah, well... Since you're already here, I hope I can ask you here about the white fabric covering the shoulder bridges. Now, with my Chef kit came a white piece of cotton fabric, which is pretty flimsy, which I thought I liked, but now, looking at a few of the the reference pictures it looks more like it may actually be the same material as the cotton straps for the belt. Which is the movie accurate way to go? I've looked at dozens of threads, and maybe that's just me, but all I see is a bunch of diffrent straps and fabrics tacked together and I can't really make out what's going on, and on the ones I can see clearly it's usually obviously not movie accurate...

Thanks for the quick reply! So is gluing them into the belt in the front alright? Really don't wanna mess this one up... Edit: I'M AN IDIOT. The whole thing is one piece, amirite?

Hi folks! I'm pondering how to attach the cotton straps of the drop boxes to the main belt, both in front where it connects to the hard belt, and in back. I'm going for pretty screen accurate, so I'm disinclined to use snaps (I also am unable to ) so I'm thinking velcro (difficult for lack of space in front) and the old E6000. Basically my preliminary plan is: Glue ends of front straps into the hard belt Attach into drop box with velcro Attach in the back by velcroing the ends between the velcro of the main belt (does anyone do this? Seems like a no brainer, or am I missing something?) I don't like the idea of permanently fixing the straps to the belt in the back because my weight fluctuates due to medical reasons, so I might have to tighten or loosen the belt over time. I'd love to hear everyone's thoughts!

Hey folks! Sorry for not replying; I had subscribed to this thread, but hadn't gotten any notifications I've solved the problem by making it someone else's lol! I sent it to the guy who made my helmet. He knows what he's doing. Thanks anyway!

That's absolutely unbelievably beautiful! Can I ask you how you chose to attach the drop-box straps on the front of the belt? Is there even a consensus on what's accurate in that regard?

Hi! I'm having real troubles connecting the brackety part with the main holster part. I've made a slot for the pointy bit, but there's quite a bit of tension on the larger "end" and it won't easily butt at the front, you'd need to bend it to glue it. E6000 could do the job tension-wise, but locking it in position would be tough as there's just no area to glue to. Oh, btw, I'm building a Chef's kit (super happy so-far!)

Ordered them! Thanks, guys!

Ordered! Thanks a lot, folks!