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DK5IDE

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Everything posted by DK5IDE

  1. DK5IDE
    Bryan, sorry for the late reply. I measured the finished size of the flap and they are 5.25" wide, not 5.5". Cleary, I fudged something on the dimensions. The extra quarter inch allows the flap to fold/hang over the box so that you can't see inside it when closed. I split the overhang distance on both sides so each side overlaps the main box by .125" or 1/8th. Of course, if you don't want any overlap, finish to 5" size. You may be able to take you flap apart and re-sew to smaller size. Here's a shot of the top of the flap coming in at 5.25". Hope that helps.
  2. DK5IDE
    Glad to help, Digger. I went through 3 test boxes fiddling with dimension til I got it where I wanted. Good luck!
  3. DK5IDE
    Hi, Digger. Sorry for late reply. That is correct - there will be one sewing line visible at the front of the box. You can just make it out in the pic here: The flap will fold over this area, however - so you won't see it. Here's a shot of how I've attached the flap to the back of the box. Hope this helps and happy building!
  4. DK5IDE
    Thanks, and thanks again for the revised specs!
  5. DK5IDE
    Thanks for the new dimensions update. I just finished a pair built off your new specs and a modified 2001 template from Matthew Clayson that's on the forum. I used natural finish/color cotton duck. Here's a shot of the optional interior side flaps. Got the idea from Pandatrooper's thread. My template based on the revised 5 x 6 x 2 dimensions:
  6. DK5IDE
    Thanks! Used 762s method for magnets. Made a big difference.
  7. DK5IDE
    Thanks, Ken!
  8. DK5IDE
    Thanks, Strider!
  9. DK5IDE
    Second helmet complete! Used Krylon Fusion per 762s' recommendation. This paint doesn't go down as easy as the Tamiya white, but I think the overall color and shine is better match for SC armor.
  10. DK5IDE
    Hey Jimmyc, For the connecting strips, I took some of the spare ABS in the RS kit and just hand shaped them, rather than using a heat gun. I worked out the shape a bit, set it in place, then adjusted again by hand if needed. After shaping each piece, I set them in without gluing and marked the positions in pencil, numbering each so I remembered what order they went in. I glued them in place with E600 and kept them in place with several Neodynium magnets. I had to tape some magnets in place to prevent them attracting laterally to each other. I invested in many more magnets of the larger1/2 size so the pull was greater. That pull strength makes the seams come close together and prevents the Bondo from creeping in. Any that does make it through is easy enough to take off. Hope that helps and good luck on your RS!
  11. DK5IDE
    On my second build, I used 762s' magnet closure tutorial to bring the visor into close alignment with the bucket. You can find his tutorial here: http://forum.bikersc...l=&fromsearch=1 This method is great for bringing the two halves closed and keeping them that way while trooping. Here's what my magnet placement looked like before priming and painting. Note that the magnets go on both sides. The halves line up much more closely now:
  12. DK5IDE
    spacebob, sorry for the delay. Needed to buy a proper tape measure to get around those curves. Here are my numbers: A 31.8 cm B 30.5 cm D 38.6 cm E 22.9 cm Hope it helps and good luck.
  13. DK5IDE
    Sure thing, post here and I will send measurements. Considering all the amazing stuff you've built in the past, dunno if you qualify as a newbie. ;-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. DK5IDE
    Thanks, spacebob I hadn't done decals in 30 years, but Googled a couple of vids. I cut each marking out individually, soaked each in water for about 20 seconds or so, then they easily slide off onto wherever you need to apply. I wet down the contact point on the helmet first, but that's probably not necessary. Once down, you have a couple of minutes to reposition as needed, work out any bubbles, then blot away the water. Easy enough. For the vertical vent lines on the back of helmet, I removed the opaque backing, positioned them, and only burnished the topmost areas of the lines. Then I removed the top clear layer and burnished the lines individually so that they stayed even. Good luck with the ironing!
  15. DK5IDE
    Last looks. All markings are water slide decals except the vent lines on back of helmet. Those are similar to a vinyl sticker.
  16. DK5IDE
    Good finds, Chopper. Here's another prop pic from Objects Du Mythe book, page 340. No back bolt.
  17. DK5IDE
    I ordered a 3M headband off Amazon. It looks pretty close to the original. Listed like this on Amazon: 3M Speedglas Welding Helmet Headband and Mounting Hardware, Welding Safety 04-0650-00/37140(AAD) I set it inside the bucket and eyeballed where to cut and drill the hole to allow it to be riveted to the sides. Similar cut is used for the other side. When trimmed, it looks like this: I used a white-headed rivet to save the paint. Here's the position before riveting in. Interior shot, riveted in place. I saw LFL references on this technique but never saw a clear shot of how it aligns inside, so hope this helps. Final install.
  18. DK5IDE
    Thanks, spacebob. The model is a Coverite "21st Century" Sealing Iron. Ordered it on Amazon. I used it for a TK suit as well. It's served me well. Good luck with your build!
  19. DK5IDE
    I painted the bucket with Tamiya (gloss) White enamel. With the soggy weather, took about 2 weeks on and off. Tack cloth solved the initial dusty bucket issues. I also found that using the air nozzle on my compressor to blow off dust helped as well. I did try to polish the paint after it dried with Novus 2/3, but saw little effect. Here's the faceplate with a super dark lens installed. It's going into a friend's display cabinet so I don't need to worry about seeing trees out of it.
  20. DK5IDE
    Thanks for the tip. I've already painted this one, so will try the high build primer on my second bucket. Building two at a time.
  21. DK5IDE
    Priming and sanding took a couple of rounds. What looks seamless with bare ABS shows every little divot once primer lays down. I put down Tamiya Fine Surface Primer (gray), then sanded areas around the seams where the helmet halves joined. There were a lot more prime/sand cycles than I expected. I took down any spots with 400 grit, then wet sanded with 800. Didn't quite get every bump and nick out, but came pretty close. I did find some LFL referenced that showed the seam appearing though the paint, so I guess screen accurate. ]
  22. DK5IDE
    On to paint. I used Vallejo Model Air Light Gray for base plate and Tamiya Semi Gloss Black for the aerator. I found the Light Gray to be closer to the LFL reference pix, though the gray in photos does range a bit depending on lighting.
  23. DK5IDE
    Thanks, man. Getting back at it after a break during the holidays. Did a test fit with backing plate and may have to shave off some depth to get it to sit in their snugly. Sorry to hear about those fins. They are razor thin.
  24. DK5IDE
    I used a belt sander to separate the front of the snout from the backing plate. I then filed and sanded down the extra plastic flange that built up where the left side of the aerator and top part meet. I then glued the cleaned-up part onto my homemade backing plate. I wanted to make my own so that it would be more uniform in depth. Not sure if screen accurate that way...
  25. DK5IDE
    Wow, you are tearing through those kits and making fine work. That black number is pretty sweet. I'm doing 2 at a time but feel like I'm moving at Hutt speed. Good stuff, man.
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