hyraxe

And... I think I'm done! Matt black on top of a chrome base, with lots of graphite rubbed in and weathered with Rub’n’buff. Parts before assembly (the trigger has since been added): For the inner barrel, I opted to sheath both ends in a larger silver-grey rod to emulate what’s seen in the screenshots. I haven’t done the ‘shutter’ that runs across the top edge of the slots but might add that in at a later stage. As the trigger is nowhere to be seen in any of the ref images, I took the liberty of doing an MG-34 style one as I’d no idea how to install one like the MG-42’s. This design is also less fiddly/fragile. Total length is 115cm, which is slighter shorter than the MG-42 (122cm I believe), to suit my smaller physique. I’m quite pleased with how well it’s turned out in the end. Can’t wait to troop with it!

It's all coming together now. Parts that are ready have been primed, and the stock stained and sealed. The area between my desk and bed forms the entirety of my workspace... the joys of living in a small flatshare. All shellac'ed up and sanded to a smooth gloss. Added a ring of ABS. Dust and stuff are a concern, so I try to work within my makeshift work enclosure whenever I can! It's basically a large box with a two holes on the side for my arms to slip through, with a plastic sheet on top. I should be able to assemble everything and do some painting this weekend.

I decided to use a rounded flash hider instead of a hexagonal one, made from plastic disposable wine glasses stacked inside one another for added thickness and strength. I retained the hexagon for the main muzzle body though. The hexagons at the end of the barrel and on the muzzle are made from a shell of ABS sheets cut to size, enclosing foam stuffing and ‘sealed’ with apoxie sculpt. Used hose connectors to join the tube in the barrel to the muzzle, which will be detachable.

Made the stock from three planks of pine wood, each 20mm thick. Not my ideal choice of wood but I needed something easy to work with and readily sourced. I only have a coping saw - no point acquiring more powerful tools if I don’t have the space to work them in! - and so ended up with this ugly chunk (ignore that bit sticking out of the middle plank - it was based on an idea that involved slotting it into the receiver later on, but I ditched it in the end): At this point, I almost wanted to give up. But with steadfast chipping with a carving knife, a helluva lot of rasping and a very sore arm later, it somehow worked out. The part where it meets the receiver/body? is flatter (cross section is rectangular rather than a square) than I’d have liked, but it’ll have to do: The receiver involved some tricky work negotiating a hollow in which to fit the barrel. To route out bits of wood from the side planks, I dremelled depth-limited lines then used the carving knife to scoop-hack the rows away… if that makes any sense? Again, I’m sure this isn’t the best way to do stuff, but it works! Then after glueing the pieces together, plus more carving, rasping, sanding, filling, sealing, sanding, sealing, sanding… … I screwed up a little while shaping the grip so the bottom bit is looking a bit funny.

A first-cut (literally) template based on a drawing I did in Photoshop: I did not like the angular and boxy look of the receiver from the screenshots, so I decided to go with the shape that Marcel used. (I’m no gunsmith nor propmaker so I may get some terms wrong - well as long as you get what I'm trying to say!) The barrel was where I tried to push for a higher level of ‘screen accuracy’, with the following observations made: - three elongated slots of equal length, followed by a longer fourth slot - barrel holes aligned above the slots exactly as seen on the screen grabs - placement of barrel ‘hump’ and greeblies near the receiver - rounded top and bottom (instead of just the top) Bought the cheapest scope I could find on ebay that looked most like the one Marcel used, and also found a bipod that I think could work, at least for the time being. Also sourced a pair of MG42 grips. Made a start on the barrel which is a PVC square tube; the top and bottom were trimmed off a ABS round tube: A feature I noticed but did not ultimately follow was to have three long rows of barrel holes instead of two. I had originally printed three rows on my template, but when I transferred the guides onto the barrel itself, I thought it would look too messy and cluttered and so decided against it. The width of my barrel is only 40mm, which is narrower than ideal (I was aiming for 45mm but had difficulty sourcing something), so I couldn’t afford the surface space. I drilled in the holes and slots on the square tube before capping the top and bottom.

For the past few weeks, having cleared my Scout and itching for a new project, I thought I’d try my hand at the DC-15x. I took inspiration from Marcel’s build, as many others have, and also decided to put my own spin on things. My interpretation was driven by: - existing builds - screen grabs - aesthetics / personal preferences - personal constraints (budget, small interior workspace, lack of proper tools, need to work with easier materials... and n00b skillz) Reference pics:

Thanks Chef, it means a lot to have you making the announcements. Wouldn't have been possible if not for your help, Marcel's, and the many WIPs and Lancer submission threads that came before me... And thank you all, proud to be a Scout! Now for my next project: DC-15x.

Is this any better?

Oh wow, you guys are lightning quick! Of all the improvements that might be needed, I wouldn't have guessed the codpiece to be one! I can understand why it's tight... it's pulling against the chest armour which I'm trying to keep as low as I can so that my neck won't disappear. I'll do what I can though - would just another pic from the front suffice? Thanks again.

For your consideration, thanks! Armour, bucket, vest, and blaster: Chef Cummerbund and pouches: Marcel Undersuit: OMP racing suit Gloves: Wampa

I initially tried going at it with a sewing machine, but after several miserable fails (and pricking myself with the pins) I turned to hand-sewing. It may be tedious, but I found it much easier and gives better control.

Thanks. It's in the Lancer CRL (http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=12081) but not basic (http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=9898) so I assumed it was referring to real suede. I have been seeing hemmed mudflaps in various successful Lancer application photos though, which is what got me confused.

I note that the Lancer CRL states that for the undersuit: Just wanted to clarify what the 'no external visable [visible] stitching' refers to - the hems, the part where the patch is attached to the undersuit, or...? Thanks!