AxelVBG

Thanks! Yeah, I'll do that as soon as possible

It makes sense, but I just can't get it to work... I guess I have to use a better glue. Until then, I decided to do it like this: Which actually works really well, because then you can retract the T-straps, into the shoulder bells, for storage purposes.

This is some great news!! I'm totally doing this too, because I was also just about to redo my T-straps anyways. The only thing I don't quite understand is how the other end of the zip tie was glued to that piece of cloth(that attaches under the shoulder bridge)... Obviously you want to attach it to a piece of velcro instead, but I just can't figure out a way to attach the zip tie to the velcro securely. I've tried a few ideas now, but nothing seems to work.

I usually get dressed in this order: 1. Undershirt w/ balaclava 2. Flightsuit 3. Knee armor 4. Boots 5. Flak Vest 6. Cummerbund 7. Chest + Back armor 8. Belt + TD 9. Shoulder armor 10. Bicep armor 11. Forearm armor 12. Helmet 13. Gloves I can get dressed by myself... but of course it's a little easier if someone helps me with for example the Cummerbund and the Flak Vest, that has velcro closure at the back, which can be hard to close correctly on your own.

Approved!! TB-94028 is now ready to serve the Empire!

Thanks! Yeah I'll probably try Velcro for the arm pieces, to keep them in place, eventually.

Thank you very much!

Thanks Chef!! Yeah I know it's very clean right now... but I'm going to dirty it up later when I've been approved.

Ok, so I'm finally done! I've already sent the photos to be approved, but I would like to hear what you guys think about this.

Ok, I understand. Thanks! And here comes a maybe very dumb question: If the G3 compound itself gives the helmet a gloss finish, is the G10 polish then really necessary?

Just one question: Does this compound you mentioned just remove the scratches or does it also give the helmet a gloss finish? The reason why I ask this is because I would like to get rid of most of the scratches but I'm not sure if I really want the helmet to have a high gloss finish.

Thank you guys for these tips! I haven't though decided yet if I want to polish it up or not, I like this dull look, but I will look into these methods because I guess I could polish the helmet later if want to.

I'm finally soon done with my Biker Scout! But I have one last thing to fix,.. and that's the helmet. Due to some bubble wrap marks in the paint I had to wet sand the helmet (to get rid of them), and because of that, the helmet's finish is now very scratched and dull. Though, I kind of like this scratched and dull finish, because I want it to have a worn and weathered look to it, but I maybe want to polish it up a bit so that it doesn't look too scratched and so that it matches the armor's finish a little better. Do you guys have any suggestions or tips on how I can polish it up? Thanks for help!

Thanks for the tips guys! I think I'll go with velcro then. Because that's a more comfort zone for me!

Hi everyone! I just finally got my MC armor kit , and I'm so pumped to start my build! But first I have a little question about the connection between the "T" straps and the chest and the back armor: They suggest, in the instruction CD, that the "T" straps should be connected to the back and chest armor with snaps... The problem that I have never worked with snaps before and therefore I don't have any snap setting tools. So I was thinking about using velcro instead. So my question is: Does velcro work just fine as an alternative or are snaps the preferred way? I just think it's a little waste of money to buy a new tool just for those four snaps, and if velcro works just fine as an alternative then that's probably what I'll use.

I ordered a full TB armor kit from MonCal about a year ago (2014-05-25), and they also told me that the wait time would be 28-32 week, but I have not recieved mine yet. Last time I checked with them(3 weeks ago), about where I was in the queue at the moment, I was #9 in the queue. Even though the wait time is ridiculously long, I'm still looking forward to my MonCal kit!

Ok I see! But before I paint with new white paint I guess I should paint with primer first, or is that not necessary when I paint on an already white surface?

Funny reactions from the heating or what do you mean?

I'm going to try the heating technique when I find the time to do it. But if that doesn't work, do you guys think I can just wet sand the marks and then apply a few new coats of paint?

I'll probably not return it. Christian has now offered me a compensation for these small "damaged"!

Ok, I'll try that! I was just a little unsure about that one because I'm afraid that the paint will behave in a weird unwanted way.

Do you guys think I can get these cracks fixed if I send it to some kind of car or boat service place? I would guess that those people know exactly what to do for cracks and marks like these, right? Because I have no experience with repair like this so I'm afraid that if I try I'll just screw everything up.

Can I maybe just cover up these marks with some new layers of paint?

I've now tried this scratch removing wax and it doesn't work! Am I doing something wrong? Or are these marks maybe to deep?

Ok, I get your point! I've sent a message to Christian about this and now waiting on an answer from him. Then we'll see what we decide to do.