freezerbee

Nice! the LED is a nice touch and the reed switch is a really awesome "no-button" solution for those sausage fingered gloves. I work for a company called SparkFun Electronics. If anyone's looking for parts like that reed switch, or if you're looking to roll your own amp, it's a pretty good spot to shop. It's also a good place to read tutorials if you don't really know your way around electronics yet. (Within reason, I may also be able to help people out with a friends/family discount, FYI)

Very cool, chef. is the amp inside the helmet? or wired to one in one of your pouches? Do you just use a simple reed switch in the helmet? It's a great idea.

Wow. the craftsmanship is very nice. Precision work there. Is that a Lugz Drifter workboot under there? I think the only thing that'll interfere with the CRL is the lack of notches in the sole and that single row of stitching in-between the boot and the leather. Has anyone tried to remove that bit from a pair of Lugz? I've been considering re-making mine. I really like the more tapered look of the boot and the way that horizontal stitch across the velcro helps keep the shape of the boot together but I have yet to see a precedent for that in the screen reference. Most of the boots on-screen seem much more tubular which I'll admit doesn't look nearly as good. Hell, if I could make boots this nice, I think I'd probably get a little carried away too. You said they're "super light" The leather doesn't have any structural backing like marine vinyl does? I'm curious to see how the boot holds up with your blaster bolted on. I'm sure if it's a problem, a little Velcro on your jumpsuit will do the trick. Very nice work. I'm jealous of the full-leather.

Thanks Eleven. I was starting to worry I had made a big mistake.

Good point. I don't have a mic in mine yet. I'll see if I can test it out with something and find out how big a field they project.

I did a similar thing but found Neodymium magnets that size. I CA glued a little plastic pip at the center so it stays centered on the hex bolt but it makes helmet disassembly super easy.

Hey man, it's not overkill if you look good, right? Thanks for the tip on the brand.

Spooky, I've been contacting MC since he's conveniently local for me. I hadn't bugged MLC yet since I'm not sure if MC gets them primed from MLC or if he gets the raw helmets and has them primed. PM me if you can advise the best way to get ahold of him. It's such tidy fiberglass work so I'm anxious not to mess it up.

Thanks guys. Easy fix.

I'm looking to upgrade my snout greeblie "aerator" by milling it out and adding actual metal mesh instead of the resin cast mesh. Can anyone tell me what I should be looking for as far as mesh gauge and density? If not, does anyone know if there's a BSN member who will sell me one?

Do people clearcoat? or does that just get in the way if you ever need to add a fresh coat

NICE dude. I took the exact same route as you did with the magnet/transistor combo. Elegant solution.

Good advice, thank you. Got the bucket from MC -- I'm trying to get an answer from his people on the primer variety but it's a busy, busy shop and I thought I'd ask around in the mean-time. Would you say people tend to eschew painted-on details in favor of the decals because they're more authentic? or simply because they're cheap and easy to replace vs. potentially botching the paint job? Now that I've typed it, I suspect it's really a combination of those three things but I'm still curious.

I just received my lovely new, pre-primered MLC V.3 bucket and am looking for a good, airbrush-friendly auto enamel and compatible clearcoat so I can finally get this baby on my head. Can anyone recommend: • A brand that worked particularly well for them? • Any that I should avoid? • A latex liquidmask for detailing? • Any technique tips? (beyond wetsand/clean/dry/paint/wait/repeat)