topherhunter

Get a strip of elastic, some snaps, and four 1x1" scraps of ABS. Cut two slits in the chin cup to accommodate the strap. Use the ABS to back the snaps on both the fabric side and the helmet side (this prevents them from pulling through the elastic and gives better purchase to the helmet). Put the button side of the snap on your strap--remembering to thread it through your chin strap--and glue the flat side of the snap (CA glue works well) to the inside of each cheek. If you position the snaps right and get the length of the strap right, it'll apply gentle tension to help hold the helmet on without crushing your jaw. I suggest doing one cheek and the strap, then playing with the position/length until you're comfortable before gluing the second snap in place. Or you could go with a more complex adjustable slide if you really want.

I use his FO-TK setup in that bucket, and it's fantastic. Saving my pocket change for the TB version.

On a whim, I grabbed the Modulus and the Long Range mod kit. First up, this thing can get massive (see pictures for all the parts laid out on a 1x1" grid cutting mat)! But I think there's a lot of potential to make something fun here. A few observations: -The Long Range stock doesn't collapse -There are five mounting rails, so you can add cr*p all over the place (see picture for one example) -The mag can be stored in the Long Range stock, making for a sort of bullpup-like appearance -The basic muzzle extension has two additional mounting rails, and you can add the Long Range muzzle onto the front of the basic extension. That puts the whole beast at about 36" with just this addon kit. Crazy. Pics here:

I put a set of 1/4" magnets in each corner. Works like a charm. I've love to figure out a little arm to hold it open while in the dressing room, though!

I have a pair of small squirrel-cage fans I got from Digikey. Made by Delta, model BFB04512MD. Very quiet, high flow rate, low current load. Hook them to anything from 5 to 14V and you'll be happy. http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=0&y=0&lang=en&site=us&keywords=bfb04512md

I have a fairly big head and wear a Cucblack. I'd be able to get glasses on no problem.

I use a set of these: http://www.amazon.com/NEW-ORIGINAL-US-ARMY-ISSUE/dp/B004RCLM8Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405367466&sr=8-2&keywords=helmet+padding Very comfy and adjustable.

I'll second Chunk's comments. A basic Brother or an older Singer can work really well if you have good nylon thread and both heavy duty and leather needles on hand. I have an $80 refub Brother from Worst Buy, and my gf has a $200 Singer from Amazon; hers is clearly worth double mine (faster, more stitch options, embroidery options, etc.), but both are great for the tasks we throw at them. However if you buy used, be careful and check the machine thoroughly. Missing parts can be difficult to replace, and the plastics used on machines in the 70s and 80s haven't held up well to oxidation. It's sometimes tough to distinguish between a cosmetic crack and one that will alter how the machine handles your workload.

On the suede: Tandy usually has some nice pig leather that works beautifully. Just apply the inner/sueded side facing out. On sewing: it's not too hard to learn to use a sewing machine; start with some scraps of fabric to get the feel for stitch length, zig-zag, speed, etc. Buy some decent nylon thread and a leather needle for your machine, and it'll make short work of things. That said... you'll probably find that fishing the suit over your machine's lower assembly (the platform the fabric rests on) will be a pain. Take lots of breaks and deep breaths, and play with different orientations. Have a seam ripper on hand so you can undo mistakes. Above all, be patient. You'll get there.

Moncal's kit uses a pair of molle clips attached to the tube via pop rivets. Very secure. The only tricky bit is drilling a hole in each clip to install the rivet; spring steel is a b**** to drill.

All changes made, and now officially approved!

There are some good ideas on here about using a card of craft foam. Once I get the basic suit set, I'll be working on that part as well!

I made the adjustments; all of the full-body pics are new (I kept the few that didn't have needed adjustments, i.e. the boots and helmet shots).

Ok, new photos. The only thing missing (I think) is the soft pouches; I got most of the way through putting it all on and realized I never put on the velcro to hold them. Let me know if anything else needs adjusting. https://www.flickr.com/photos/77059580@N07/sets/72157641773469604/ Edit: looks like my shoulder bells need to rotate forward a little.

(Haven't done my TB yet, but this worked well on my TS.) I started with grey, dark grey, black, and brown water-based paint and a sponge. Each color was daubed liberally onto the armor and allowed to dry. Then I used fine steel wool (snowies aren't shiny) and a very lightly damp paper towel to buff off the majority of the color. This left paint in the corners and light specks over the rest of the armor. The main advantage of using water soluble paints is that you can undo it and you're guaranteed not to damage the ABS. The disadvantage is that I'll melt like the Wicked Witch if I get caught in a rain shower. Cloth bits were weathered with a mixture of rooibos tea and random rubs in the mud and dirt outside.