Mandalorean

Thank you for confirming that I am correct that rivets are measured by the diameter and length of the shaft the binds the material together. That packaging does not give the diameter of the flange. However your measurement of a 1/4 inch (aprox 6mm) flange diameter is helpful. So, as we use the metric system in the UK, are we agreed that a rivet labelled as 3mm is correct?

We need to sort this rivet sizing out. In the UK (and I'm pretty sure over in the US as well) dome head pop rivets are measured by the shaft that binds the material together. The flange, or head, is then a certain amount larger. The smallest I've come across is a 2.4mm (or in imperial 3/32) diameter which should give the closest flange diameter (around 4mm) being asked for for Lancer. Would it be possible for a level 2 armourer post an image of the required rivet against a tape measure please. Cheers Andy

Ok dude 👍😊

Rightio.. Hi Phil, Thought I'd pop over as you mention on the UKG you have a Lancer build going on. I reckon we can salvage this. If you used the rivets above that fine, those are correct. What you have there are 4x8mm rivets - the 4mm refers to the diameter of the rivet body, 8mm the length. Whoever labelled those as 10mm is wrong. But now you have the holster off.. I reckon you could use the same holes to re-mount the holster by re hemming the top of the boot to be a bit shorter. By looking at your pictures I think you'd have enough of a margin that it would still sit around the right distance below your knee armour. I'll post on you UKG WIP as well. Andy

Would only pass basic clearance, not accurate enough for lancer I'm afraid. Andy

Welcome

Congrats

Congrats

I've made my last few cummerbunds from nylon based material. I believe Chef has started doing the same. I think it does give a more accurate appearance than cotton. Has a different contrast to the canvas of the pouches and reflects light differently. Andy

As Stasz suggests, I would be tempred to have another go. I'm on my 4th self made bund and planning a 5th to get detials right. But to answer your question, and reiterate Stasz answer, putting in a zip would be fine as long as it was hidden and the outward appearance was that of a 2" velcro fixture. From your description it sounds like you have taken a different measurement for your chest and of your waist and then used that for the top and bottom lengths of your 'bund. I find just using the chest measurement for both top and bottom lengths works best as having differetn lengths means its tricky to get the back to look square when closed. Andy

Very nice, though IMO the cog should be green to reflect the detachments colour scheme. Andy

All parts of the armour are different in shape and/or dimensions from ROTJ armour. I don't think any part of an ROTJ armour kit could be used without modification. The ribs on the 'bund do look as if they go all they way around and there looks to be no visible closure to the 'bund either. Pouches, flack vest and TD seem to have been omitted and so far we have no confirmation for a riding patch, thigh elastics or but flap either

And then only a "Rebels" Scout would be able to wear one, not an "ROTJ" Scout.

Join the UK Garrison

I have two of these upto lancer spec. The embroidered logos can be removed quite easily with a seam ripper, tweezers and a smidge of patience. Then just remove the thigh pockets and add the riding patch, flap and thigh elastic. Andy